Shimakaze build

without the deck on it keels to starboard(gun is affixed to the bottom of the deck and reaches the full depth of the boat as so. but will self right when pushed about and turned. so weight is about half a pound heavy and ss is not perfectly centered. problem may be fixed more that reg got moved. didn't get moved until after it capsized and i found more room in different places.

weight is still 1.5 pounds light after putting bb's in - pump. if i can figure out a way to make a motor lie flat that would take care of the weight but i don't really have the room for it. plan on either rebuilding the shima and making a plug or printing the hull (or new ribs) when i get my printer working.

spurt gun idea intrigues me as i could do away with the cartridges and charge from a bottle in port like a torp launcher.

mast will be taken off to see how much that helps as well.

 

I think that will make a really noticeable difference, since it is so tall it really puts weight waaaay above where destroyers like it.

 

got the tipping to stop. just in time to burn out a motor. and they where running in reverse for some reason. still had issues with the tipping on turning with the SS on so im going to toss the hull and rebuild it. 1/4 is to heavy in the ss but works nicely in the keel.

 

Yepperz, 1/4 is definitely going to cause you fits above the waterline on a little boat like this. 1/8 is probably even pushing the limit with as much superstructure as there is up there. I used 1/16 and foam on Uritski. Shimakaze is about double the displacement of Uritski, but has more superstructure, so you *may* get away with 1/8 on the areas likely to get shot, and 1/16 on less exposed areas. You could use wooden dowel for the mast, just criss-cross bind the intersections/ connection points with thread and coat it with west systems, will be plenty sturdy. I made my funnels from foam, you may have to do the same to keep the weight where you need it, I'm not sure how you constructed them initially.

 

I was just looking back at some of your build pics. Is the deck made from 1/4 as well?? If so, that is going to kill the stability. Go with 1/8 and double it up just on the edges to make it fit to the boat like 1/4 would. That alone may get your stability back on track (if the current deck is indeed 1/4).

 

I might keep the hull and turn it into a runner, might not it's not all the true sadly. might just finish painting the hull and put it up somewhere high where you can't look all that close at. next build is going to make extensive use of fiberglass and printed ribs. or i might try printing the whole body with windows preset. And yes i do understand just how much work that will be.

entire boat is 1/4. As you say i may just cut the deck loose and add my ribs that i need to back in and build a 1/8th deck to drop the weight and the ss is 1/4 basswood with 1/32 ply or styrene sheet. so almost as light as foam and i could work it with the time and tools i had.

may actually glass the keel fully and cut the keel spar out and glass in the ribs to the bottom to open up my interior as well. doing so much cutting and fixing at that point that i may as well just redo the entire hull and get things more accurate this time.

 

Don't give up on her, I think you can make some changes and at least get to battle her, at least while you work on the replacement hull to swap the mechanicals into, if you are that unhappy with the current hull. Remember, every ounce you remove from up top (anywhere above the waterline really) is an ounce you can ballast low in the hull, kind of doubling your weight reduction efforts up top. The only thing that may be tough to reduce weight on would be the caprail, but if you removed the sheeting, you could thin it with a small drill mounted drum sander - if it was even necessary after reducing ss and deck weight.

 

I just got my band saw back today! so i will get the ribs i need cut back into the boat which will certainly help get some weight back lower and sand down the deck to half it's thickness at least plus the caprails as well. not much i can do in ss but if i switch to a 15 round spurt instead of the 50 single that will reduce the total weight up top as well. if i get an acumulator that works (or just keep using the cartridges already paid for after all) i can glass the keel and dremmel out the keel spar to lay the regulator that much closer to the bottom. figuring a better spot to put the poppit and replacing my motors with a mount that also moves them into the bottom as well can only help(currently sit about 10mm above the keel). if i hadn't burned the motor out i was planning on doing a speed test to see if i needed to change them as well but that i know i need to i may switch to twin 380 cans and get some dogbones for them instead of a not that great flexible tube setup i have now.

 

Bamboo skewers also work quite well for masts and come in large packs for easy manufacture of spares

 

Bamboo chopsticks are already shaped for masts and are very tough too.

 

If i find the parts for my plans i'm either going to start modeling the shima topside or the kongo tonight. leaning towards the kongo as that would get me a usable ship faster than the shima. just to much retrofitting to get done in a short amount of time i fear.

printing the antenna mast flat and joined with a drop of superglue would be fairly light and quick to print in 2-3 layers or so. and who cares when it goes flying off at the first close bb. i could print 30 with little to no care.

have however found something that may function as a pump and a motor for it.

 

just quietly put this here.

trying to figure out how to get this thing to be a watertight solid and fix the step area to be rounded and i have the hull finished.

 

yea the stern is incredibly shallow. I had one heck of a time fitting a micro servo into the wood hull.

 

well i messed up the first one. or more accurately the dammed software nuked parts of my lofts so when i converted to true solid to prep for window cuts it just went wonky. new method works much better and might actually let me get everything but the top deck printed as i want that to be a single piece. but slurry joins are fairly strong so i may do that instead.

If this works well I will have a prototype for a type of boat able to be built in full in a weekend or two after all the printing is done. If this works how I hope next project will be a cruiser.

my print area is 110mm x 240mm so i can do the shimakaze in 3 parts maybe 4 depending on how things work as absolute limit of printing area prints never turn out well for me.

little bit on expected use is that the first 230mm section of the bow with a 4 layer wall and 5% infill was about 150g expected with a 19 hour print time at 40mm/s


fffff autocad and i are not on speaking terms right now. dammed thing get it to work and it deletes my guides that i need to do the next section keep the guides and it won't work...... but akagi plans arrived as well as dog bones so off to do things that don't make me angry

 

still has some work to do on the aft and cursing at the fact that autocad doesn't let you do multiplanar sculpting so things will be somewhat ugly but abs files down fast.
need to add in stuffing tubes and rudder post as well still.

might have the first printable section done tomorrow and will get the printer up and running as i found some dry abs.

 

first of 4 sections is printing. they are really rough but need to see how well this will work. might need to change where i sectioned at as well in final version.

 

printer nozzle jammed. new one ordered while my old sits in a vat of acetone for about a week to clean it out....