ok section d has printed and I will probably have to go back and redo most of the rim, or do a subset/offset deck, or 1mm thick deck with a reinforcement rim underneath. section c is printing so that i can do a join test tomorrow. white is because I was acetone gassing a piece to smooth it for making a mold from and forgot about it for to many hours... it melted into the glass so i made slurry. and this needed slurry badly. offset in the rear is something i need to fix as well but gave up on after 2 hours of trying just that section. will fix it with micro in a one-off method. just noticed a printing issue with part a as well.... might need to cut that part about as well. but more parts is not that bad i'm finding. slurry paste makes a join as strong or stronger than the raw printed area by itself.
That pic in the middle it looks like the tension from the underwater part (much more volume than the caprail part) caused layer separation in the caprail.
yea it did. but it still printed nicely after it broke so im not so worried now. will work on possibly printing more hulls after i get the first one built. and get things tested for size and basic fit.
I think trying to print a ship standing on end is a losing proposition. Problem is that layer adhesion is the weak spot in a fdm 3d print. By printing on end you place weakness where the ship will be most stressed.
yea i should orient it horizontally but i have issues printing that way. just hard to get the bed level properly. that and i can't get the slicer, or cura to build supports right when i tried it that way.
That's the issue that needs fixed Every printer has issues (individually, and by design-class); my Ormerod for example can't repeat a freaking Z-axis height measurement to save its life (which is why it got exiled to the back of the house and the Mendel came back to where I can play with it regularly with the good PSU and enclosure). If you can crack the bed leveling issue you're golden I've seen shots of people using a dial micrometer mounted in the Rostock's carriage to help level their beds. Have you tried that? It could be as easy as that with a few shims to level the bed...
got it leveled but printing at the extremes makes my printer skip sometimes. so back to the drawing to re slice and change where the cuts are made.
Have you thought about breaking it down into smaller pieces, ie a rib, a section of sub-deck, a section of hull bottom, etc? I recently found my old CAD files for the Mehoshi Maru, and I will try to cut that up into printable parts. If that works, I will move on to my delightfully hideous Borodino....
have it cut in 7 sections now. will see how it prints. if it doesn't do well i will do some more cutting later
depends. but longest section is abour 180mm now. also rough drafted the printed decks. just need to relocate the holes for the aft turret so i don't need to cut them later and just print that deckhouse as a single unit. adding the stls for the sections. decks sectioned and added. and they will need filing and trimming after they finish printing. 2 different types of deck to see which works the best. inset and overset. will just print the deckhouse and stick it on later. Shimakaze shared horizontal print failed. doesn't matter which way i orient i will always have a weak point in the ribs somewhere. vertical looks better so im just going to try that way one more time. if i could resolve my bed adhesion horizontal would have worked better.
You might need to run hotter and slower to improve the layer adhesion. Have you considered enclosing your Rostock? If you could trap more heat in the print chamber you'd have less warping and delamination problems.
I'm intending to try it that way as well, albeit with a different ship. Hadn't even thought to use the Maru..
got a good print overnight. printed vertical. most of my issues stem from poor first layer adhesion. I had one hell of a time getting it off the print bed this time and it has no fractures and cracks. next part is printing and if that one works in 8 hours i will have the bow section forward of the step printed. .8 nozzle might arrive today as well and that could be nice if i get it tuned in for these rough prints.
A and B sections joined and smoothed. going to have to reinforce the forward section unless the way i built the top does what i hope it will. c on the printer and my .8 showed up in the mail so d-g may get done with that depending on what speeds i can get out of it.
Question for you 3D guys... rather than printing a hull, wouldn't it be much faster & easier to separately print ribs, keel(s), and a subdeck as if it was a wood build? Advantages / Disadvantages?
I haven't done any 3d printing yet, but have sort of wondered about things along those lines. The biggest disadvantage I can think of is extra design time to add slots and keys etc. There is an advantage to having less to assemble, and all the hard areas are done if you print the hull.
This is what I'm planning to do and what Kotori is planning in his comment above. The downside to that is you still have to assemble it and fill in hard area, etc. The upside is its a faster print job and doesn't mandate mdoeling the entire hullform. The upside of what ish is doing here is that he shouldn't have to do any grinding down of his ribs for the hull curvature, he doesn't have to go add hard area, and he can (if he planned ahead) model in things like motor mounts, battery trays, etc, into the print job itself. The downside is he's dramatically increasing his print time (and filament consumption) and losing the ability to lay out sections in such a manner that he will get the maximum strength for any given piece within the limitations of 3d printing. Also if he has a section go bad in printing he throws away a lot more work.
