everything nick says is true. but i wanted this as a project just to test the ability of a 3d printer to do a print in place project. sections d-g are waiting for my motors so i can model in the mounts and attach them in the hull as a single unit. also my water channeling is done and i will put my pump subset in section d as well. if i was just printing ribs i would be done with that and moving on to creating the hard area and everything else. if i do anything bigger than the Shimakaze i would just model the ribs and and attach them to a separate print as the flatter you print things the better on most printers. and in terms of work im using a spool that had about .5kg of filament left on it and not seen a noticeable drop in amount as each section is 50-90g depending on complexity and size. wooden hull with 11g servos in it was 460g. if i can keep the weight the same and keep the topside from being 430g again it should have much much better stability. in terms of time when i was still dialing in the printer and fixing my bed adhesion it was about a day per section or 2 trys per part. now I've got it down to 2 sections a day but back to waiting on the motors again. but with 3d printing again you sit the part and wait 4-7 hours to see if you have anything. if i was printing ribs it would be about 30 minutes per rib. for the size of the shimakaze. maybe a little longer depending on print speeds and whatnot. next things im going to print will be 2 different pumps i found and see how i like them and how much work it is to get the parts modified to where i can use them.
if one of the pumps i'm printing puts out enough water to help keep it from sinking with no holes just seep I will have to see how long it takes to deplete a AA battery.
Who says you have to fill in hard area? If you've got the 3d model and you're already able to chop it up into ribs, decks, etc. then you can chop out sections for hard area/water channeling, and other features.
printing section g as the motors showed up and will just be post activly built in. same with drive shafts. also the model is broken in the f section. somehow it separated with about a 1mm gap in the center. I will rework the STL to have just ribs and single sections for the rim. Will rework the bow hardpoint as well to make it sharper and less of a plow prow. pics tomorrow. update delayed. my lease on my desk came up so i had to give it back to who i was borrowing it from. picked up my f section this morning and it snaped in half as settings got changed and g didn't print at all last night as it crashed on preheat.
this is my planned drive motor. 2300kv motor times two. once I get more bullet connectors as they are smaller and lighter than the xt-60's(which i like more than deans for ease of soldering) i will test a printed pump i have that will actually attach to the top deck and be perfectly sized to do so.
kongo has it's motors now. just need to make a mount for the new brushless i have for it and finish the SS
print finished yesterday and i have maybe 5 meters of filament left. if I hadn't messed up prints the Shimakaze could be fully printed with rafts with less than a single spool. body without decks is 303g
let out the magic smoke on one of the motors during power testing.... ordering 2 new ones that don't just have bare wires for me to worry about. prepping kongo's motors going to try worm gears and a single motor. if it works i know i have a working esc and motor for that. will probably be to much motor but i don't mind throttle restricting it.
rough placement of stuff if i don't have time to build a spurt cannon before laborday not tested the pump yet as i don't have any inrunners small enough to actually fit and i need to make the deck to mount the pump to before i can test it. if i do spurts they will go in the aft turret right behind the prop shafts. single motor was just a placeholder while i wait for new motors again.
need to get new ESC's for this boat. would just order the car esc but they are wayyyy to big. does anyone have any links for 12amp brushless esc with reverse that are the same size as the air ones that don't reverse.
It is *possible* too add reverse to some ESCs by flashing new firmware... I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, it's kind of a PITA... I did it HERE, about 1/3 way down the page.
got the ones beaver linked and the programing card for them so now im waiting for the motors i ordered over a week ago to get here. swiss post is stupid slow but they where to heavy for cheap fedex direct. and anyone that has done spurt cannons. do i need a .5,1, or 2 cubic inch tank for a 10 rounds spurt?
got the motors installed(bulkhead has a opening on the bottom and the center to prevent water flow from being slowed to stay in the rules. thinking i might do a double 10 spurt cannon in the front gun at max no sidemount angle and angled down so i can do the shoot and scoot. what size of expansion tank works for the spurts? would do one each and a deck level recharge point. working on a printable 10 round double antfarm that has inputs for the expansion tanks.
mostly for the design challenge of a mostly printed ship. but yea just doing tubing will be the most simple
