Not to pile on.. but that gear mesh (now that I see it on my computer and not the phone) looks a bit dodgy, like you're only making contact for a small amount of the gear? If those are actually brass as the color suggests, you're going to wear that little contact patch down fast.
contact is over 90% of the gear and those long screws where in there just so i could set the motor mount while replacement set screws are in the mail. if i could find 2mm to 1/8" universals i would just do that but no luck in that.
got replacement steel gears and ordered the raboesch couplings. they should be here in a few weeks and i will just hold off on putting the gears on for now.
With that gear drive setup you will want to make sure your motor mount is absolutely rock solid. The tangential contact between the gears will create considerable force during operation that will try to push the shafts apart. If the stuffing tubes or motor mounts flex at all it could cause the gears to skip out of mesh with one another. Just something to consider.
hence why i'm moving back to a universal. more forgiving of the slight flex that the motor mount will have under torque.
looking for gun advise now. can build it with 2 spurt guns in the forward or a single unit with printed mag in either forward or aft configuration. which should i go for? printed a coil last night to see about converting the one in the kongo and it fits about perfectly in the shima.
new torps printed and ss section one done.. may have to replace that one with something lighter. replaced my .35 with a .8 as it jammed again... didn't thin the walls so that SS is 59g old ss structure was 36g wall thickness on the SS is 4.3-4.5mm with 10% infill torps are 6g down from 12 and look more accurate. turrets are printing but should come up about the same as the cast ones i have.
When the Shima is finished i plan on releasing all the 3d files i have on the site. need to finish the aft deck house and the second stack and that should be it.
For a DD superstructure, you don't need it that thick, really. I'd go like 1.5 or 2mm. It needs to be thicker for battleships because 1) they get pounded more than DDs, and 2) a battleship has so much mass, it won't roll with the impact. A DD will roll with impacts (it'll roll if you look at it funny), minimizing the damage.
it was going to be 1.5 to 2mm but i changed the nozzle and didn't do any test pieces. the torps are thin but the turrets are thicker. Will probably reprint the turrets to drop a few more grams as the universal joints are kinda heavy but are at least at the lowest point they can be (having to hog out an area for them to rotate in actually).
working on the Shimakaze's guns now and i am wondering. can you you solder a 1/8" barb to the inside of the 1/4 copper tube and just have the one fitting at the top so that you can have the o-ring in it? or is it better to find a 1/4 to 1/8 and solder the tube into the fitting. this is for a spurt gun not a single shot. pump test went well. other than burning out another esc due to stall amps on the motor being higher than they said they where... again. but i got extra's of the ones i'm using for the drive motors so i just need to redo my battery splitter again and go with that. will probably just pot this set of them as my scotchcote didn't get closed all the way last time i used it.
all internals but the guns and it's poppits are in and i have a weight of 1010g i can get 1350 grams... bah this is gonna be tight. going to do some super short power y's to drop a few grams here and there to get the ship down to weight. and the SS will be reprinted to be thinner same with the turret covers. decks are styreen sheet and are currently at 80g total. is that 3 pounds the overload weight or do i get that extra pound still being class one?
the motors are 13 grams the esc is 10. not certain i could have made a single to double gearbox(right) that was more than 10 grams in weight different.
Where are you getting all this weight, then? If smaller ships have been built (they have) then where is the extra weight coming from?
That big battery would do it. I run my Z boat on 3300mah life and that's sufficient for a full battle and another sortie+. Could easily get away with half that capacity and swap batteries every sortie.
will do a power test later this week. run the battery in an on-off configuration with the pump switching on an off as needed. once i figure out how long the pack i have lasts i can scale back the size of battery needed.
