Dang Nabit. I was going to have pictures of the mount that will allow the turrets to rotate and also allow them to be locked down in one position, and provide the bearing surfaces to keep them aligned. They will also provide dead stops. These stops will be used to reset the turret if it is hit by another ship and moved relative to the servo driving the rotation. If a ship hits the turret, rather than strip gears, the turret will slip relative to the servo. Now to reset the thing so that the turret is where you think it should be, one just orders the servo to move to full port, and full starboard. the dead stops will prevent overtravel of the turret and reset the center of it. Emphasis on was. Instead, rather than making the parts, I spent the time figuring out what settings needed changing since my mill computer's bios reset itself to the default settings. which screwed up the addressing of the parallel port card. That and for some reason mach 3 keeps thinking that there is an E-stop signal... which is interesting since I have not implemented said functionality. I still can't get the parallel port card to work, but the onboard parallel is working now. (shakes fist at computer). maybe week after next. I think I will give that computer some tlc, and check the motherboard to see if there are any batteries in need of replacing... pull out all unneeded hardware, and give it a good format & start over.
And now for some more pictures.... I am taking my time on this build, with the intention of having a ship that can be easily refit with new hardware on all components that have any probability of wearing out. For starters, the stuffing tube is molded into the hull, but it is removable. the aluminum block with a bolt (to be replaced with setscrew soon enough) mounts the stuffing tube to the hull. unscrew the bolt by half a turn and the stuffing tube's position can be modified or it can be completely removed and repaired/replaced if necessary. the stuffing tube itself is3/8" OD .245" ID 304 stainless steel with oilite bronze bushings pressed in. The motor is mounted directly to that stuffing tube. And the gearbox for the rudders is also in place. The following picture is a partly completed turret base with part of a hybrid cannon top. The top has been tweaked from my standard design to sit in the turret base and be held in while allowing rotation. the holes around teh aluminum turret base that are near the ID are all 4-40 tapped holes. there is a tab on the cannon so that if you put the tab between two adjacent holes with setscrews, the turret is locked in place. those holes allow for cannon placement every 15 degrees. One can also run the setscrew into a not yet machined dimple in the middle of the tab, giving a fixed cannon placement every 7.5 degrees. Now if one does not put any setscrews in, the cannon is free to rotate 360 degrees. what my plan is, is to have the setscrews in at the end of travel + some amount... and a friction connection between the cannon and teh driving servo. If a cannon is impacted by another ship, it will slip on the servo until the tab on the top of the cannon hits one of the stops. Now to recenter the cannon on the servo, just rotate the cannon by servo to both extremes, as the servo will try to overdrive one of the extremes, the stop will prevent the cannon from overdriving, and teh cannon will slip relative to the servo, resetting itself where it should be relative to the servo.
The rudders on the test install From SMS BADENrudders to stuffing tube hole From SMS BADENTest fit of the metal decks... need a stiffnin rib at one spot, but that is readily accomplished. From SMS BADENprop + rudders From SMS BADENrunning hardware From SMS BADEN From SMS BADEN
With about a 1000 rpm per volt on that motor, what voltage are you running in it Greg. In my next ship I have been thinking about trying a brushless setup, due to the size, and weight savings in a destroyer. What class is that motor equivelent to in a brushed motor? From the pictures, its hard to tell, but it looks like its equal to a 500 series maybe. Will it have enough power to run a single shafted boat, without burning it or the ESC up, but you have most likely already looked into that, I was just tryin to get some idea's asking myself. Also another subject, We talked before about the outlets, and I have made a new one, after talking to you about it on here, and reading up on the subject some, using a De Laval, another name for it is CD output. I have not tried it as of yet, but hopefully it will do even better, due to the lower pressure on the output side. Maybe this weekend if I have the time
Another question if you don't mind that is, what is the manufacture, and type of the speed control that you plan on using? I have been looking, and there does not seem to be many out there that will go both forward and reverse.
thanks mikey! that motor is a 480 class motor by the case size... and I have decided to run a 6V system with a separate (and small) 12V secondary system to run the solenoids on. I am not necessarily convinced that the brushless motor needs to be the same class as the brushed motor... mainly because of how fast the efficiency of the can motors drops off from the BEP (usually about 75% efficient there). Unfortunatly, there are really no available datasheets with the efficiency and other curves to compare with the mabuchi curves that are available. My feeling (subjective, based on experience) is that the outrunner motors, being far torquier than the brushed or standard brushless motors, are probably the way to go. I ran this motor on my tirpitz before I sold it to Justin, so it should be able to drive this boat just fine. I plan on using a castle creations mamba or sidewinder ESC, or if justin's Mtroniks brushless esc works perfectly, that one. One has to waterproof the castle creations esc's, but I have one that I have encased /potted in an aluminum block that I have used for several years now. One reason that I like the castle creations is their castle link software, as it allows one to change via computer more parameters than you can change without having a computer interface... for example, I can set how it transitions to reverse, I can change how the transmitter stick position relates to throttle, set any low voltage cutoff I want to set, etc. We will see. the beauty of this setup is I have plenty of room to pick a different motor if the need should arise.
me too. now I just need to get time to make more parts... I may have screwed up the first middle disk of the cannons, but if I did what I think I did, I can take it to work and hit it with a .210 reamer and probably fix it. -Greg
pictures of casemates and deck and subdeck. there are a few sections of the casemate that got a bit chattery and will have to be replaced with flat panels, but that is easy enough to do with abs, as acetone works as a chemical welding agent....
Looking mighty nice there Greg. I think I will wait a bit before I start my build thread for my Bayern.
It's been a while, but I am finally getting a chance to work on it a bit again. Still need to build cannons, but hopefully this winter I can get her built... superstructure pictures. there are a few more parts to cut...
Tug's comments about snap together stuff reminded me to put tabs that lock together on most of the part that could accept them.
And now I am out of making parts again... damn computer crapped out, replacement came with DOA motherboard.... Son of a..... and that holds me up on making more parts.
and now that the computer is fixed (finally) I have some more pictures for you... Unfortunately, shiny black plastic does not photograph wel. I will say that I am really liking the use of ABS as a superstructure material. the fact that it welds together using acetone is a great feature.
