For most of the guys in WWCC, we use the the cheaper standard servos $8, and just skotch cote the board and cut holes in the casing and just wash it out with alcohol after a battle day. Seems to work fine. and can be less expensive. Like most things in this hobby it personal preference. Keep up the good work.
Hello all: I've marked the penetrable areas of the hull. Since it probably isn't so easy to change once the hull is cut, I'd encourage/appreciate any feedback to ensure I don't screw this up too bad The calculations follow: MWCI Shiplist 'Baden' Length = 590' 1/144 Scale = 49.167" 15% of 1/144 Scale = 7.375" Minus 2" Bow & 1" Stern = 4.375" 16x 1/4" Ribs & 1x 3/8" Rib = 4.375" View of the Bow: Stern: Overall: Thanks for all your help... it is appreciated! John
Cant tell for sure, but it looks like you shaped the aft "stern" solid area in the shape of the contour like we do with the bow. Only the bow solid area is allowed to have the contour or "profile". The stern should be vertical and straight. The angled tape in your stern makes me think you shaped that solid area as well as the bow... other than that it looks like your ready to cut... ***************** added: "If you are just battling with the MWC, the contour is within rules. If you are battling with the IRCWCC, the rules state: 4. Solid material in the stern shall extend no more than 1" forward from the extreme stern measured along the longitudinal centerline of the ship. *************** Some pointers if I may... 1. Try not to use tape unless it is the blue "painters" tape that stays on well. It never fails when your in the middle of a cut, the tape comes off.... I just use pencil or even a marker these days as it is all painted anyway... 2. Drill 1/8 or slightly larger holes in each corner before you cut... this leaves a very small rounded corner that will be cleaner and stronger than a sharp corner, plus it keeps you from "over cutting" past your corners. 3. Go buy a "painters smock", the cheap white throw away overalls... before cutting, put it on, tape your wrist where your gloves are, wear a mask and eye protection. The fiberglass will itch like hell if you dont. Also, when done... immediately take a "COLD" shower... not a warm one! Warm water opens up your pores in the skin... and this makes the glass fibers imbed deeper.... cold showers always do better for glass..
That is incorrect. From the MWC Rules: II.A.2.e) Solid material in the stern can extend no more than 1" forward, following the contour of the stern.
In the past the stern has alwas been one inch and the bow 2" following the the contour... I stand corrected... for the MWC, this must have changed over the past few years. Probably when the casement rules changed.. The IRCWCC is still the same though, and if you battle with them as well as the MWC, like most of us... I would probably go with the more tighter IRCWCC rules, but nobody will keep you from the water over it either way. 4. Solid material in the stern shall extend no more than 1" forward from the extreme stern measured along the longitudinal centerline of the ship. Thanks for the notice though..
That's a good point. Perhaps it would be advantageous to build a boat which could compete in either format. After all, if other people start building boats in this area, who's to say what club/ruleset they'll want to follow. I'll have to check out the IRCWCC rules and see how they differ. It gives me something to think about... Thanks, John
There is very little difference, and most of the time, the IRCWCC will adjust their rules to match the MWC if the rule change is a good one. Also, if you do build only to MWC specs.. the IRC will still let you battle.... and vise versa..
Over the past few weeks, I've felt a bit like Sauron summoning his dark legions to Mordor. I guess, in reality, it's just been the postman delivering things to my home which I either didn't have or couldn't find in my basement. If I'm not mistaken (which doesn't happen more than 1-2 times per second), I think I now have most of the major components which must fit inside the hull. So, I figure it's time to come up with (at least) a preliminary plan to ensure these components actually do FIT inside the hull This is what I've come up with thus far: From stern to bow: - The extreme stern of the ship will house the rudder posts (good place for them, huh?) and rudder servo. - Main drive motor/gearbox. The two solenoid/expansion tanks for the stern cannons will sit alongside the main drive motor. With luck, the stern guns will behave nicely straddling the main drive motor. - Empty space for the stern sidemount. This is also where the ESC will lay at the bottom of the hull. - Stern sidemount solenoid/expansion tank. - Pump - Batteries - Empty spot for electronics box. - Bow sidemount solenoid/expansion tank. - 5oz CO2 bottle and Strike variable regulator. If my scale is at least fairly accurate, the total weight of the components/hull shell is currently about 16 lbs. Please provide any comments or concerns. Thanks! John
I'd not position those two kips right alongside your drive motor....mutual interference could cause gun misfires or other wackiness. Move 'em outboard and you're golden. Rest of the layout looks pretty standard. Baden is popular b/c it's very maneuverable, and, as you can see here, plenty roomy.
That layout looks pretty standard. Mine has things (especially the solenoids) slightly more toward the center but basically the same layout. A couple of quick thoughts though. You currently have spare weight but that tends to disappear as things progress. Weight isnt critical for a Baden but just keep it in mind. The same can be said for room inside. It somehow magically disappears as you get closer to finished. Make sure you plan the stern rudder/servo section out as that space is kinda tight. Its not impossible but planning makes it go a lot smoother than trial and error.
I run my solenoids very near my motor and have never had a problem. I have never run accumulator tanks and have never had any problems, BUT I run 1/4 supply hose, not 1/8. I suggest taking your layout and taping it down and then measure it for balance. See where the mid point it is and it shouldn't be forward of the middle of the ship. I moved my bottle mid-ship to remove the heavy weight from the bow. By keeping the weight in the middle of the ship, it reduces the weight in the bow and allows the ship to turn faster (in a circle). I learned from Mr. Mangus about putting the bottle between the battery cells in the mid-ship and it helped a ton. I made rudder changes and prop changes and ended up with the turning in the end of the video (starting at 1:24) shown below. Right now I have nothing in my bow until about the A turret, where my radio gear sits on a platform, high and dry (no radio box) Check this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnygqxxk-dw&list=UUUumMcOHpBtp-iAw27pd_GA
Thank you! Is there a minimum distance you'd recommend? Does that apply to servos as well or only large/high current motors like the main drive and pump? Thank you, John
I have never had that problem, but every boat is different. In my experience, motors and solenoids dont seem to care much about interference as they are both simple components. They do seem to create interference for other things though. I have had issues with high current wires near servos/radios/and servo wire. An inch of distance is usually enough to solve it (or you could try shielding) but I normally just run high current along one side of my ship and signal wire down the other. Solves the issue fairly well.
Thanks! I know that feeling well. When I started building my first ship (USS Pensacola) many years ago, I thought it was huge! I remember thinking I had plenty of room for the motors, batteries, combat systems, etc. Until one day, when all of a sudden I really didn't have much room anymore. Made me think of the line from Jaws: "I think we're going to need a bigger boat." Though, someone once told me that every boat is going to seem small once all the components are installed. Thanks, John
Wow! That's a nice ship! That's the kind of maneuverability I'm hoping to have. I think I'll play around with moving my bottle to the center and the electronics box to the front. I was under the (perhaps false?) impression that one needs to have weight in the bow of the ship or it will ride high/pop out of the water. I seem to remember seeing a few build threads where people talked about adding lead weights, in addition to the CO2 regulator, to the extreme bow. But, after viewing the video, I'll guess I'll have to reexamine that. Or, perhaps it is necessary on certain ships but not others. As as added advantage, it would be nice to only have one section of deck which needs to come off between battles. As I get closer to finalizing the setup, I'll try the balance test you suggested. Regarding the rudder and props, do you have a picture of your setup (or is it top secret)? I've already purchased a propeller (2", 5-Blade, 27 Degree Pitch). Is that similar to what you're using? I'm a bit curious about your battle unit setup... It looks like you only have 3 cannons. Do you have two pumps? Thanks, John
Regarding the shielding / space question: Solenoids generate a "spike" when cycled, which if very close to, your rudder servo line for example, could cause a 'twitch". Motors are less vulnerable, but if you've got room, why take the chance? Weight & Trim: Keeping your heavy items as low in the hull as you can helps stability (not that there's much of an issue with this boat). Keeping them toward the center of the length helps your turning moment. Ideally the only thing in the extreme stern is the rudder servo (and maybe the electronics box), bow is empty (or box). Batteries, bottle, and other goodies in middle, pump just aft of midships & drive motor(s) behind that.
Personally I want hatches on every part of the ship. I will add one in the bow this winter. I want to be able to clear any bb's that accumulate or if I need to do some work int he bow I can get to it. Hatches that are rarely opened, I would screw down and maybe follow with silicone in the gaps. I use stock BC rudders but moved about 3/16 from in front of the rudder post to the rear and reshaped. I also use a highly directional prop (standard series 2 inch, sanded down slightly, 2 inches of pitch from Prop Shop) I also use dual motor to provide the extra torque. Turning to me was not enough, the speed of the turning was the most important thing. This year at Nats I was able to just turn slightly and move my stern away from any danger including the Vanguards. It was a long time coming and was a lot of fun to drive at Nats this past year. I didnt set the rudders so I am not sure if they are precisely placed. I know they work for the most part but were I do re-do the rudder posts/positioning I might do it differently. I do use 2 pumps and they only help in certain cases. I tried a new sheeting method at the Brouhaha and took super bad holes.. like every bb made a pencil sized hole.. so I sank the first time with only 1 pump priming properly, the second from all the downforce that 2 titan pumps produce. I do like having a sidemount on each side of the ship. I used my stern guns alot but they NEVER SUNK ANYONE!! (for those that think I am crazy).. However my sidemounts HAVE! And now I have two in the back... not more trying to make sure I backup in the right angle so I get my sidemount on the un-armed side of a ship. With 2 sidemounts .. I dont care.. I just back up. Granted this year back-down battling went out the window for the first time since I was in the hobby. I changed my strategy and may change the gun setup as well in the future. Like I said a ship that turns well is a good thing... a ship that turns well... quickly.. is AWESOME! And it does make a difference.
