I had an idea for mounting the shot counter circuit to the radio on the way home. I've been planning to mount my push buttons to the back of the radio, similar to a video game controller, because I feel that would be the most comfortable firing position for me. Since the right control stick will come off anyhow (I'd rather it not get in the way), I can use that space to mount the 7 segment displays. See the bad estimation of final product below: The wire bundles can be run to the rear of the radio where I can create a little enclosure to house the control circuits (which should be a good bit smaller since the 7-segment displays will not be mounted to them). That's all... I just wanted to write a little explanantion because, the older I get, the more I have a tendency to forget all my good (okay... mediocre) ideas. Thanks, John
Here is the Original shot counter I built back in early 2010, the enclosure was flimsy and the insides were way too expensive/complex. (seperate battery,parallel circuits, etc) That started falling apart last summer so I started working on making a new/better version. The initial goal was to make a plug and play replacement for the DX6i, that turned into making a universal design that would work with any standard radio. The current design is 99% there, there is only one small difference and that is due to different radios running at different voltages internally but the same parts can be used with minor modification so I'm happy with the design for now. The design is setup for the user to be able to choose what buttons they would like to use as individual taste varys in terms of tacticle feel/size/color/etc. Installation is relatively simple and involves soldering the buttons to the connections on the board that lives in the radio, soldering some wires to interface with the wires in the radio that went to the gimbal that gets removed, cutting a small hole in the radio shell for the ribbon cable to exit, and adjusting the LCD screen's contrast in the box that goes on the radio by a little trim pot. Pretty simple and it can be installed in about an hour if all goes well. This picture shows the bare electronics, the two lower systems are DX6i specific while the top system is the univeral design. Here are my three radios with the new system installed. The DX6i's have the DX6i specific system while the DX6 has the universal, they are identical from this point of view. This is the one that I built for Carl, I had to do it custom as his button setup is significantly different than what is normally done. Normally the display reads TOP and LHS on the first row and BTM and RHS on the bottom row. This corresponds to the button setup that I use which seems to be fairly standard. Also you may have noticed that I have them set to count up instead of down to make it easier to transfer between ships which may have different unit arrangements. (the counters roll over to 0 after 999 if you go crazy on the buttons) I started off using Radio Shack "project enclosures" for the LCD and exterior electroincs pack but those required a lot of labor to make useable so I designed a custom enclosure which fits everything and a lid, got them done with a high quality 3D printer, made molds of them, and can now cast enclosures which need very little modification/touch up before being ready to use. The enclosure also has a reset button on the side which resets the counters to 0. I've found that regular velcro holds these boxes onto the radio very well, you could also bolt them to the front/top, one individual made a wooden mount that slips over the antenna and holds the box.
Since I run my futaba 6ex radio from an external power supply, would the electronics could fit inside the now unused battery compartment?
The shot counter is a MUST, I don't know how I battled (31 years) without it. It takes a little training to get used to it but thereafter a wonder.
Probably, I've found that most radios have a significant amount of free space internally especially once if you remove one of the gimbals. In the original design I had the electronics and additional battery velcroed to the inside of the radio without issue, for the new version typically I let the board that lives in the radio just free float in space, it doesn't move around much. It would be way better to tie it down somewhere if possible, where that location would be depends on the specific radio. John, If you can get slightly smaller dual 8 segment displays and fit them all in the right gimbal location with buttons on the back that would look pretty sweet. Just be careful when putting buttons on the back as they become a lot more vulnerable to accidentally being pushed when setting the radio down or handing it to someone, etc. Also not sure how you were planning on powering it, my initial design had its own battery before I started powering the new version off the main radio battery. I'd highly recommend powering it off the main battery if at all possible as well as wiring it to turn on/off through the main radio power switch. Pretty minor sounding features but rather nice ones to have.
Lol... with my eyesight I think I'm going to have to stick with the bigger displays Thanks for the ideas! I really like the one about turning the shot counter on/off from the main power switch on the radio. Regarding the battery, I'm currently leaning towards powering both the circuit and the radio from an external battery (removing the internal battery on the radio). I'm not certain what's currently in the radio, though, as far as voltage and amp-hours. I'll have to check when I take it apart. Another, more wacky idea I had was removing the radio case entirely and building a new, waterproof case with the radio components, shot counter and timer (for going on 5, etc.) built in. Thanks! John
An easy way is to take a piece of aluminum shape 'L' and bolt one side to radio and then the segments can be fitted/glued/screwed depending on the type to the flat face of the aluminum. If you are using a stick to shoot.. those would be in the way in the corners. I started to make one based on Chris's design but in the end.. I just keep a mental note based on counts of my longer exchanges. I just go in to attack if I think I have enough and if I blow air I just drive off. Not that big of a deal. Don't forget a reset...
Thanks! My current circuit design has four resets - one for each counter. I'm pondering whether a single 'master' reset would suffice. Thanks, John
Hello: The rear subdeck was created this past weekend from 1/4" aircraft grade plywood. I liked the idea of having the cannons mounted independent of the deck, so the deck could be removed while leaving the cannons in place. However, I didn't like the idea of having a permanently fixed structure interfering with the ability to maintain the ship systems. So, I came up with the following: After actually having built it, though, I'm thinking it was probably more trouble than it was worth. Only time will tell... Thanks, John
I'm intrigued, and don't think its a bad idea. Like you say, only time will tell. And there have been times that I've wanted to pull the deck to check something but didn't like having to fish all the gun out from around other internals.
Thanks! I've also been pondering its usefulness in changing cannon configurations, since multiple inserts could be made and just dropped into place. Granted, that would mean building/buying multiple sets of cannons for the ship. But, it could be fun. Thanks, John
Cool! I should be free the 16th, 17th (Saturday or Sunday), or possibly the evening of the 14th (Thursday). Do any work for you? Hmmm... I just had a flashback to the Star Wars scene when Darth Vader comes aboard the second Death Star and informs the crew that the emporer is concerned about their lack of progress.... I shall double my efforts! Thanks, John
Great Idea with the removable mount. I mounted my Iboat cannons permanently in the subdeck and it is a pain to work on them. I mounted my rotating Nagato cannons to the deck and it is a pain to remove the deck with all the wires and short hoses. This is one idea I'm definitely going to copy. Ron Hunt
I also love that idea. My Baden went thru FOUR(!!) drive motors during Nats this past week. (Cause yet to be determined, but I suspect a slightly bent shaft trashed a bearing), and fishing them in and out from directly under four cannon that are mounted directly to the subdeck was a pain in the A....llies. I will be copying this for certain. AWESOME concept. Bravo Zulu!
Thanks! I'm glad I could give back to the community, at least in some small way. Any tips for creating the rib reinforcements? Is it just a matter of shaping -> test fit -> more shaping -> test fit -> repeat until 'good enough'? Do most people take the reinforcement all the way to the flat bottom, or stop at the lower extent of the penetrable window (i.e. 1" below the waterline)? Thanks, John
I do the cut&shape as you describe. I take them down far enough that the bottom ends will be reinforced by my water channelling's outboard edge, and I drill a small hole thru the subdeck into the top of the reinforcement, and drive a small wood dowel down that to reinforce the joint at the top.
