SMS Derfflinger 3D Printed Project

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by darkapollo, Aug 13, 2021.

  1. Evan Fowler

    Evan Fowler Well-Known Member

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    I'm game for that. I know a hand full of guys who like to tinker. And thats about all I did with the konig last time. Best just bring it and we'll see what can happen. Even if it just trolls about thats half the battle. Guns and boards are easily prepared. Trust me all anybody wants is to see your boat working and you having fun
     
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  2. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    The last (two) sections are on the printer. It is going to be TIGHT with the plastic I have. But I -should- have just enough on this roll to finish the hull.
    Yes, both rudders are there. That can be changed easily. The front one can’t turn very far anyway.
    All of the minor (and one major… thanks worn out nozzle…) warping has been filled.
    In 38 hours I should have a completed hull frame!
    Then… sanding smooth… epoxy and fiberglass..

    image.jpg
     
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  3. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

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    Looking very nice! Glad to see you included the bilge keels. I think those are an under-appreciated feature on ships. They don't have a huge effect on your maximum roll, but they very rapidly dampen any rolls you may experience. Make sure to reinforce them. My own bilge keels get shot regularly, and I've had to replace portions of them that got blown away by particularly powerful sidemounts.
     
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  4. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    I was going to reenforce them with fiberglass.
     
  5. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    2 and a half rolls of gray PETG.
    Nearly 2 weeks of printing non-stop.
    Longest print was 60 hours.
    Shortest print was 12 hours.
    Seems joined with brass rods, super glue, and welded with a 3D pen.

    Things left to print:
    super structure
    Deck and cross supports
    Propellers
    Turrets
    Rudder servo mount

    Things left to fit out:
    Wiring
    Solenoids
    Plumbing
    Batteries
    Skinning

    Things left to finish:
    Sanding, epoxy and fiberglassing
    Painting

    image.jpg
     
  6. Evan Fowler

    Evan Fowler Well-Known Member

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    Noice, can't wait to get eyes on it looks great!!!
     
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  7. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    Going to give these a spin in some ABS slurry to smooth out and build up some thickness. I printed them a bit thinner than normal. Because they are on ⅛” shafts I’m having a hell of a time finding 4 blade 1.5” props for that shaft size. I am thinking of threading for 10-24 and making some dog drives for 4mm shaft props.
    D6AA028C-ADC7-4F81-9D33-35788A8A2CF7.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 31, 2021
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  8. Panzer

    Panzer Iron Dog Shipwerks and CiderHaus

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    It looks fantastic!!! Something about a derffy Hull I like to see.
     
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  9. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    Thank you! She is very German looking. Very much function over form which I think makes her a beautiful hull.
     
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  10. Mad_Modeller

    Mad_Modeller Active Member

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    Looking good. Be careful about adding to many layers they look very close to the bottom of the hull from the last picture.
     
  11. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    Only one fiberglass layer to give the bottom some “bump and thump” resistance.
    I don’t even know if the epoxy will bond to the petg..
     
  12. Panzer

    Panzer Iron Dog Shipwerks and CiderHaus

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    Use the West Systems G-Flex epoxy. That should stick to petg
     
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  13. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    I was looking at the West Systems 105/205 or Total Boat…
    I will have to look at the g/flex to see how it compares. The plan is to finish gluing and get it sanded this week.
     
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  14. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    About to start printing the super structure. Going to hollow out the rear funnel and make that my float. Not set on fixture method yet, but going to shove a cork in there.
    I put the ESC and RX in a little cubby so I could mount the switch in an easily accessible space, plus keeps them out of the hull for easier access.
    upload_2021-9-1_9-16-33.png
     
  15. Evan Fowler

    Evan Fowler Well-Known Member

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    You guys and your fancy printers. Looks great solid plan
     
  16. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    Under $200 for an Ender3, no reason not to have one ;) UNLESS you know people with one...
    Im putting money aside for an Ender5-Pro so I can do bigger ships and bigger parts (and do an actively heated enclosure, not my passive enclosure) to do ABS better.
     
  17. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    Hull is sanded. PETG is a pain to glue together but man I love how it sands like pine wood.
    Rudder servo mount is printing. Plastic for the deck will be here tomorrow.
    If… if I can get some drive gears (was hoping to do a 2:1 but cannot find a matching pinion and spur gear in the same profile to make that happen…)
    I…. Could do initial sea trials… like this weekend.
    I was playing with sheets of 1/32 bass wood (for another project) and this hull is going to be so easy to sheet.
    I believe I saw someone mention she should be mid 20lbs to the water line?
     
  18. Evan Fowler

    Evan Fowler Well-Known Member

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    That is awsome, hope all goes well. There is a ship list with dimensions. Speed and weight available from the site.
     
  19. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    Deck is coming along.
    ordered some drive gears. They will be here next week. Worked out rudder motion as well.
    10DFC172-AC13-4EBD-9ED3-D71D47A0D0B1.jpeg
     
  20. Commodore

    Commodore Well-Known Member

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    Color me intrigued. Personally, I would rather print/buy gears for the rudder, I haven't been happy with pulleys.

    Otherwise, she's looking pretty nifty. Do you take commissions??? (haha!)

    (I have too many botes as it is)
     
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