Just need to wire it all up! 12:28 or 2.33:1 so I should be between 3 and 4.2k at the prop depending on how fast these motors spin. And… I need to print some new props… and other bits..
I gave myself a deadline to get it in the water by October. Even if shes just a boat puttering around between everyone else ripping out chunks of balsa.
I tested on some scrap balsa and some failed prints. Once the contact cement cured, it wasnt coming off without a fight. It is interesting though because I can peel the excess contact cement off the PETG very easily. I did uncover a design flaw and will need to correct it. The balsa sheet is 3” wide. One of the windows is just a hair larger than the sheet. I will need to print a tiny backer piece to cover that gap.
Looking nice. Check your required depth for penetrable area below the waterline. Some ships require 4 inch balsa....
From scale water line I did just about 1.125” (of the 1” allowable) The issue is in the bow where that 1.125” below would remove any semblance of structural support. Everywhere else I am over on 3” wide. Scale waterline shown. Cursor is on the window where it is just… JUST covering at 1.125” below but with nothing supporting the bottom of that frame.
Sheeting is D O N E!! Need to silkspan the outside.. but she is all skined! I was so tempted to throw her in the Jacuzzi just to see her in the water but not yet
I hate fiberglassing. So. So. Very much. GFlex is awesome stuff and the 3/4oz cloth I picked up soaks it like a sponge. But Ugh Itchy. So. Very. Itchy. And sticky.
No worries! The only thing my wife wanted when we were house hunting was a soaking tub and our master bathroom has a big jacuzzi (or whirlpool, but it is jacuzzi brand).
So are you going to wrap just the outer hull and cut the windows out or are you going to wrap the ribs completely and the inside of the hull as well. Interested in the steps.
I just wrapped the bottom to prevent rock damage. The PETG is easily repairable so not TOO worried about inner damage.
