Yeah, the lighter gray looks better on the superstructure. I like the hull in the dark gray though (also because I ran out of the light gray…) Currently printing the central support reenforcement so I can grab it and not rely on superglue to keep the deck from ripping out. Next is the turret bases to mock hold the barrels. I want to reprint the turrets too. I tried to be cute and do a multicolor and minimal support but the slope on the front looks horrible.
I found that regular grey automotive primer is very close to the superstructure color and hull color. I believe Tom Tanner did a site for German WW1 capital ships and he has a color chip in there for the superstructure, hull and below colors. Years ago I took it the chip to Lowe's and matched it up with a chip they had for their latex paint and got a quart for above and below the waterline. Still have it and use it. Turret tops are black and I believe on the #2 and #3 it had a white circle painted on it. You're call on that. BTW, great job on the boat!
Thank you!! When I repaint it I might pick up some primer gray. I am curious why Tamiya TS-4 German Gray is so dark.. usually Tamiya is pretty close. Thats what I went for when paint shopping. Any chance you have a link for that site? All 4 had the white circles, 1 and 4 had thin and 2 and 3 were thicker. At least according to the pictures Ive seen.
So, hey, was looking through this thread while yakking with some friends on the phone and noticed that the spur gear on your drives was fairly small, no wonder your boat was so fast. Just so you know, these are popular 32 pitch gears: https://traxxas.com/products/parts/1526 Using those, with 12-14 tooth gears on the motors will get most boats into the correct speed zone.
I actually have those and they don’t fit my prop shafts. I’m using 48p 12t and 28t gears for a 2.3:1 reduction. I couldnt find 32p in ⅛” shaft so I had to go with 48p. I went with the highest tooth count I could find at the time while still being able to use a modified traxxas style mount. I found a set of 31-37t so I will pick those up over the winter which will give me a better 3.x:1 reduction. The prop might be TOO aggressive, too. I cut the throttle trim back to 35%. It is hard to get a good speed time since I only have a creek to test in. The only spot with an open area long enough to judge timing is near a dam (and I do not dare put her below the dam!) so there is pretty good current to fight (you can see how fast she drifts in some parts of the videos). So she is slow in one direction and fast in the other. I took a few videos yesterday. One at 30% the other at 35%. 30% throttle 35% throttle
Hey I actually found that info via another modeling forum talking about the Seydlitz and Derfflinger in 1915 and 1916 They were talking about Tanner and the RAL 7000 and 7001 color chips but no direct link to the page. I took a snap shot the color pallet too. Awesome! Thanks so much for that!
I will go through and edit the color chip translation later. Kriegsmarinewerft Wilhelmshaven Color overview for paints of the Krlegsmarine Material part sheet No. TL-F1 Bauwerft II serial. No. No. Color color name color color name cover color red for inside, hull color III red, emperor red II (basic) acc. To RAL 8013 hull color (WL) III gray, non-slip 5 outer deck color acc. To RAL 7016 top color emperor red I for life buoys, heel color dark gray for outside and inside side lights, fire extinguishers etc. acc. to RAL 3010 acc. to RAL 7024 top color red top color dark gray for outside and inside acc. to RAL 7000 for lightships, also for accident prevention, 7 signs etc. acc. to RAL 3011 top color light gray for outside and inside, fire and acid protection paint, radiator paint according to RAL 7001 top color black for outside and inside according to RAL 9005 8. Material part sheet Kriegsmarinewerft Wilhelmshaven color overview for paints of the Kriegsmarine No. TL-F1 shipyard III serial. Serial Color designation Color shade Color designation No. Cover color yellow, cover color blue, ultramarine blue Boss boat color, inflatable boat color 13 according to RAL 5004 according to RAL 1003 cover color brown, heel color cover color white for inside and outside according to RAL 9002 10 14 Tarpaulin color according to RAL 8011 cover color ivory , Fire protection paint top color green, chrome green acc. To RAL 6005 11 15 for machine and engine rooms acc. To RAL 9003 aluminum bronze top color ocher yellow acc. To RAL 1011 12 16 acc. To RAL 9006 2.
For the gear that is too larger for an 1/8” shaft use a sleeve that’s one size up from the 1/8” shaft. Citing its length to match the gear and cut a hole in it for the set screw to get through to the shaft. It’s a pretty big cut. This is fairly common. If you need a photo let me know.
As Bob mentioned, making a sleeve out of some brass tube is the common solution to using the traxxas gears on 1/8" shafts.
Thanks for printing the turret covers, as soon as I can get them trimmed and fit ill upload the pics. Thanks again a ton!!!!
They were ones that I had tried to be fancy with but I didnt like the dark gray. I was going to print new ones for you but I was running short on PETG and couldnt get more plus print the turrets (16hrs for 4) before heading out.
Minor update: at Hagerstown, she was running well but near the end of my time there she seemed sluggish and one motor was struggling. I had figured the battery was low as my son was driving the boat a lot. I charged it yesterday, and normally from dead, or close to dead, it takes about 3hr. The battery was full after just 38min. I reassembled the boat, and her port motor wasnt turning. I gave the prop a quick spin and the motor kicked over, but stopping for more than a few seconds, would lock the motor up again. I can’t take the motor apart without cutting the tabs off the can. So I suppose Battlers is going to get an order from me for new motors..
A saying we have in the offroading community: The best spare part for your jeep is a spare jeep. It applies to boats as well. While it might be daunting for new people, a spare boat worth of guts in your toolbox is the difference between actually battling on Saturday or being sad that your boat doesn't work.
Fixed the bad motor. It was just really gummed up. I drilled and tapped two holes in the can, took the back off and hit the stator and brushes with some light sand paper. The motor spins like new now. I might do the same to the other one. Maybe print some new caps for the back to make them serviceable parts. Designed new propellers. The old ones had a lot of bark but no bite. They would cavitate like crazy and I needed 50% throttle just to move. New design cavitates a lot less and 33% throttle will push it to a ‘brisk walking’ pace. They are also bidirectional so forward and reverse are similar in thrust. It was a nice, cold, day on the lake. Several people were taking video or stopped to ask about the boat.
