And I need a new rudder servo. Don’t buy cheap! These 5/$10 Amazon specials are ok to test with but one already fried, and this one likes to dance around center which makes going straight after a turn a bit of an adventure. Thinking of going with one of these… ANNIMOS 20KG Digital Servo High Torque Full Metal Gear Waterproof for RC Model DIY, DS3218MG,Control Angle 270° View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DX2G3YCVRC96NTM8A32Y
I'll be honest, I bought cheap... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyki...D=86336&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics I have had the same rudder servo in my I boat for about 3 years and about 5 or 6 sinks with zero problems. The same type controls my Bayern rudders and that one has been strong 2 years and about 4 sinks. I keep 3 spares in my tool box but I've only pulled them out to offer them to other battlers who fried a servo...
Same here on the HK. Enough years that I don't remember when I bought it... Cheap servos are cheap because they may fail, so you take the risk... just have spares
Heh those are still $2 more, and water proof, than the ones I currently have. There is cheap name brand and cheap cheaps. Like the splines arent even cut so the horn is straight at neutral. It feels like one tooth off. Ill pick up some better ones. View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQJ1VZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_08G0YBGPN0KZEPNBHWT3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Fixed the rudder servo by tuning the heck out of the trim and sub trim. Front rudder added and tested. It actually turns better with the small front rudder. I have them turning opposite so it kind of directs more water towards the free propeller. I need a pump in the worst way I almost foundered under some heavy winds earlier and she was swamped with water.
Who said Derfs can’t turn? Counter rotating rudders. Her turning circle is just a bit bigger than she is. Also, that is 24s speed. I timed it. I had to lay off the throttle during full speed turns because the drag props were causing the stern to swamp.
She doesnt steer as well in reverse, so that is something I need to work out. I am going to swap out the drag disks for dummy props. There is a huge troff created just before the driven props which causes them to suck up air and I am losing some acceleration from that. I tested without the drag disks after the video but found the only spot of shallow algae in the lake which caused me to almost go wading in 3' 35* water.. The props and rudder were all clogged up so I couldnt get a good test in. Now I know this isnt the best turning ship, but hard over and full power from a dead stop, she will swing her butt around, so I am happy about that.
Well the ‘normal’ copper fitting guns do NOT fit under the gun housings with any semblance of down angle. The chonky elbow is just tooooo chonky. /frustrated in PA
Might I recommend 3d-printed cannons? Given the nature of the project, it seems like the perfect solution to your predicament...
Ive been trying to design some but as of yet, nothing I am happy with. My printer doesnt do ABS well and I think I have a bunk spool of PETG. It randomly clogs and leaves under extrusions (same brand as the entire hull which printed perfectly) Ive taken apart the BIC canons as inspiration. Ive tried to design a ‘big gun’ style fast gun. Ive tried to do a wrap coil. I’m just not terribly happy with anything Ive designed.
What about this? Not the barely-transparent-cannon-that's-so-thin-I'm-too-scared-to-fire-it, but the breech. You can put a copper street elbow in place of the standard brass elbow, and solder a compression nut on the end at the desired down-angle. Sure, you then have to solder/locktite a male compression thread on the barrel, and be careful not to get liquid solder on the threads, but I've been using this bass-ackwards breech style for several years now.
That looks like it might still be too long. It is hard to get a picture to show exactly what issue I am seeing. I wish I could find an example of the former 'geek breach' that used a restrictor tube instead of an o-ring. All of the links on the forum for that style are dead and there are no pictures that I can find. All I know is it was a rubber fuel line, but thats about it. Right now I see two solutions. Print new turret caps with one side cut out that will fit over the o-ring style breach, or find a flexible tube solution that will provide a smooth radius and attempt to make a restrictor tube style. I have a nylon fuel line repair tool (think funky looking bar clamp/flair tool combo) so shoving a barrel into a nylon tube is not an issue.
The breach and up tube just barely fit within the barbette in this image. The breach nut is at the start of the slope of the turret face.
One thing that you can do is open up the turret top for extra clearance. They are usually fairly thick. I've had to do this on a couple of ships such as my Iron Duke & Seydlitz turrets in the pictures. Then cover the top of the turret with either thin styrene sheet or silkspan. Its doable. Seydlitz even uses the same turrets as Derf. The hole in the Duke turret is covered with simple silkspan just like you would patch a hole in the hull. It's lasted since 2010 without issue. Seydlitz isn't as old and the turret top is mostly flat so I just sheeted over it with some .020" styrene.
My turrets are printed and the shell is less than 1/8" thick (pretty sure I made them 3mm thick), there isnt much room to carve out without destroying them. If I cant figure out a solution that fits, I might have to print new ones that are a bit chopped up.
This is what I am currently working with. I have the tubing and if I read the spec sheet correctly that is just over the bend radius. It isnt 20* down, But that is the best I can do at 12* down. I will probably redesign the turret cap to remove the lower lip under the barrel port so I can eek out an additional few degrees, plus make removal much easier. I cut my barrels to 4" which gives me an inch of wiggle room. My thought was instead of the Oring being right at the breach, it would be in the lower part just before the radius tube and I would use a screw to apply squish pressure to a sliding block (where the lower straight sections are on the tube).
You need to bed that barrel down till it's touching the barbette. You should be close to 20° at that.
Right now it is touching the edge of the turret cap. I’m probably going to reprint them without that edge and see what I can get for angle. But do you see the issue with the regular brass piece guns?
