Derfflinger class battlecruiser WW1 German IRCWCC spec: 24 seconds / 100 ft; 4.5 units This was my first warship build, and as such, it has some flaws, some of which have been addressed, and some of which will probably be never addressed. I do not hold it up as a paragon of shipbuilding, it is in fact, a flawed ship, but it is a very reliable ship and battles well. As it is 4.5 units, I have opted for a 'more guns is better' philosophy, and run with 4 guns - dual sterns in D turret and sidemounts in B and C turrets, leaving myself with but a half unit pump. Strategy wise, this means I cannot wade into the fray and trade sidemount fire. In effect, this means you must play as a super-cruiser: wicked stern guns w\ sidemounts of when you have a golden opportunity. We shall begin with the overview You can rapidly note that I'm missing a few cupolas on the port side here. Our local North Carolina's have been interested in testing the durability of my topside elements this year. You might also note that my forward superstructure is missing the armored con, and is otherwise incorrect for the Derfflinger. I was halfway through building it according to plans when I realized that Derfflinger had a simpler arrangement, and did not remove the extra bits and did not get around to building the rest. My guns all have fixed wooden blocks holding the barrels for a steady firing position. I fly red flags in every battle and am always on the flagged team. Just part of the bravado. Derf has flown a red flag in every battle it has been in. Poking out of the forward stack you can see a little float. It is tied off on about 8 ft of line inside the super. You might be able to pull the ship up by it, but I don't think that would end well, its job is purely to mark the location in murky water. You should be able to quickly note here one reason the Derfflinger can be so successful despite its length: it has very little area exposed above the waterline. Fore&Aft she sports armor belts if you choose to model them (I did) - these have saved me from a lot of damage For props I use two 1.5" 4 blade props, one here has a blade broken off, and typically there are a pair of 1.5" drag discs on either side, with a dummy prop abutting them for looks. 2 battles ago I got tangled up with an Invincible whose drags hang too far off the side and actually lost my starboard set. The port set got bent around and half torn off a few weeks ago at the Seattle Mini Maker Fair. My main shaft stuffing tubes were originally the telescoping brass that is so common in the hobby. After 2 years both had been dented, bent, or otherwise damaged, so with the help of @Hovey they were cut out and we replaced them with some serious stainless steel tubes with oilite bushings. No more bending problems. The rudder is a 2 in-a-line (tandem) arrangement. IRCWCC rules state that they both must be operational, so the forward one is a tiny little stub while the after rudder gets all the size. The IRCWCC rules do not prohibit horizontal features, and so I have small ones on here. They may help a small amount. I've never spent much time playing with rudder combinations on this particular ship. Deck hold downs are machine screws, soldered on to wingnuts, which are in turn run down into blind teenuts in the subdeck. I use a cordless screwdriver for quick and easy access and closing pond-side. If the batteries fail me or I forget to bring it, I can still easily work them by hand thanks to the wingnuts. A, B and C turret covers are all 3d printed ABS. D is my last remaining resin cast. All covers are mounted on PVC knockout plugs, with material removed as needed. The plugs grip the PVC barbettes readily enough but are easily removable from them for gun access. In the stern I have plugged the inside of D with blue poster putty to reduce the ingress of water. All live barrels are stainless steel and are sleeved with clear tubing to protect vs incoming fire. Dummy barrels are thick walled brass and also sleeved for consistency and because I like them better not looking like a brassy moonscape.