can anyone give me some close up pictures of the casements on the side of south dakota? just need something to help me get an idea of what i should be aiming for. thanks
The South Dakotas didn't have casements. They had dual 5" gun turrets about the weather deck. I can try to find some drawings of the superstructure there if you need them.
im trying to post a pic of what im talking about but cant make it work..but there are two indentations that run down most of the length of the ship..either way i need a close up of those if u have them...ill keep trying to post a pic
It's mainly the angle of the sun and the old film used that makes that look so deep under the lip there. I'd blow it off and go straight down from the deck edge to the top of the armor belt. While the indent is in the allowed solid area of the deck rim, a thin lip like that is going to get eaten up in combat. If you go to this link: http://www.history.navy.mil/photos/sh-usn/usnsh-a/bb60.htm and look at pics of Alabama, you can see that it wasn't really that big.
On the BC fiberglass hull this feature is made as part of the hull. I don't have one infront of me but I think it is 1/8" to 1/4" back. Most of it is in the solid 3/8"deck with just the added 1/8" stringer under that. Basicly you get a 1/2" deck rim in that area. It's a nice looking feature, but not something that makes a big differance in the scoring of this ship.
so i could make the impenetrable area 1/2 inch thick in that area and then step the hull out an 1/8th inch for the armor belt...like the bulge in the arizona for its armor belt...but the 1/2 inch would still put me a bit too high for the step out...so how would i reinforce that if i already used up the 1/8th inch allowed for the stringer and added it to the 3/8th for the deck rim?
An 1/8" cannot be added to the 3/8" deck/subdeck to make a 1/2". An 1/8" stringer may be used at the "step out" aka the bottom of the casement.
After downloading and looking at some hull plans of the Sodak, I think the way I would do it is a two part deck/subdeck and an 1/8" stringer for the step out. The subdeck could be 1/4" thick and cut inwards where the 'casement' area is. On top of the subdeck I would use an 1/8" ply for the deck portion and let it overhang the 'casement' by the original deck outline. Tht would give a 3/8" deck/subdeck and still keep the scale look of the 'casement' area. The botton of the 'casement' would be an 1/8' thick ply stringer. I didn't measure to see if there would be a gap between the 3/8" deck/subdeck and the 1/8" 'casement' stepout. If there is a space, it is problably tiny. Hope this helped.
