You could solder it on, but the blades are silver soldered to the boss and you'll need to be careful about how much heat you use. You could try taking your shaft to a local mechanic and see if they can thread it for you. Even a nearby school's metal shop may do it for you.
i think ill solder it on, ill just have to be carfull, cheers for the help with all this Darren Oh and that urathane stuff works really well, smells a bit, wished i used it on the stuffing tube, so much easyer to clean off then epoxy
more progess today, but im still waiting for my prop to arrive in the mail all decked up and motor mount glued in at this stage i think ill use front deck as the float, as i can glue in a block of wood for the line to be attached, nice and thick at the front, should be strong enough to support the weight of the ship when being pulled up off the bottom,
Nice-looking decks there. Don't forget to waterproof them, so they don't warp on you. For a float, I'm not sure if the bow is the best place. Remember, if you hit heavy seas, that's the place that gets wet. The bow is stepped, and that helps, but the whole front half of the boat is a danger zone when the waves get big. Consider having the entire bridge structure as your float, or put a float in a cargo hatch further aft.
yeah, about waterproofing, what works the best, i was thinking about useing epoxy but would dope and slikspan be ok? about the float, i was thinking that i dont want the lower deck as the float because it wont be sealed so once the water is up to the lower deck i sink, but if i use the front deck, it the highest of the three (assuming that the ship sinks parallel with the water), and the float line will be out of the way of the servo,pump and motor i guess i could cut the lower deck in two and use half as a float but ive been 'testing' the decks to see what one will have nothing in the way of it when the ship sinks, so far with all of them the front one falls out the easyest, and also whats this cargo hatch you speak of
For sealing decks, you've got several options. You could paint them. I prefer the looks of wooden decks, though, so I won't go into detail on that. Next is epoxy. This works very well, just remember to seal the edges and bottom too, and to seal any additional holes, etc. you may make later. Last is varathane. It's a fairly standard wood sealer, and I have used it on most of my boats. It doesn't seem quite perfect, though, as my decks always seem to warp a little. I guess dope and silkspan would work, but I haven't tried it. You may have trouble sealing the deck edges, if you do. Also, silkspan shrinks when the dope dries, which may warp your decks. If you do decide to stick with the wooden color, consider staining the wood before you seal it. My most recent ship got a dark walnut-brown stain, and I'm glad I did. Lighter wood colors sometimes caused glare, making my previous ships less photogenic. My Viribus Unitis is much more camera-friendly. For a float, the best option is probably to make your entire bridge superstructure into a big buoyant mass that all floats off when you sink. This would be separate from the deck; when the ship goes down, the deck stays with it, while bridge stays on the surface. To hold the bridge on the ship when not sunk, you have two or more pegs sticking up from the deck and a pair of holes in the bridge for those pegs to sit in. Make sure the holes are a very loose fit, otherwise the float may fail if the ship rolls while sinking. about deck hatches: deck hatches are a common feature on full-size cargo ships. They are really big hatches that you load and unload cargo through. I was thinking it may be easy to disguise your float as "extra detail", but the bridge is probably a better float overall.
ah, yes didnt think about the silkspan shrinking, good piont, well, i like the idea of having the ss seperate from the deck as the float, i will be able to seal all the decks and still have a float, very good tip there Kotori, but there is still going to be the problem of the float line in the way of the rudder servo and also the motor, hmm... i may be to fit it in with a sub mirco servo going in on the side of the rudder tube thingo, as for sealing the decks themselves i think ill paint them, simpler then rushing the job with hot epoxy now all i have to do is wait for the prop to arrive...
aaahh, even better ok, so ill have a hollow ss with the cord, then there needs to be a hole in the deck for the line to attach to the hull, and the ss is the float, got it, man, i serouisly would have never thought about doing any of these things, many,many thanks for the pionters guys, once again the obvious eludes me
thats also good idea, very neat and tidy set up, but my floats going to be just the foam so i dont know how i would attach the real with screws, however, ill try to encorperate this idea as well, i think the urathane glue will work on foam and.... my prop has arrived yay! i can finally get on with the build, more pics soon
the boat now has a rudder and prop, and the rudder post is in and the glue is setting, tommorow i hope to get the servo mount made up and installed
i know ive already shown my prop, but who doesnt like shiny things parts being clamped, solved the rear caprailing debarckle with a cross peice and then two big blocks of wood for the deck to be screwed down on. battery test fitting servo in more to come, hopfully the ss then water line testing,
ive got my pump down to its 160 seconds for 2 liters rateing and this is what it looks like when its on, a long jet stream about 1m when horizontal but when i put my finger over it and block it for a second it goes so im wondering if anyone knows weather i can mount it like so either on the front or back of the ship angled down so i can spray water in the holes of other ships when i run away, or is this against AUSBG rules?
I actually had the pump outlet on my Liberty disguised as the stern gun. Looked great, but was prone to airlocks. I now pump out thru the side, near the waterline.
A few considerations when thinking about your pump outlet: 1) can you see it from shore? It's very important to know if you're pumping, and how much you're pumping. That, combined with your remaining freeboard, is your health meter. 2) rocket thrust. The water from your pump outlet is a moving mass, and is subject to Newton's 3rd law just like everything else. You're going to get thrust from your pump no matter what, so consider doing something useful with it. My battleship can actually move (slowly) under pumps alone, which is both a blessing and a curse. 3) head height. it takes more work to pump the same amount of water through an outlet higher up in the ship. I don't think it makes much difference in our scale, but is worth mentioning. 4) reverse flooding. That pump outlet can also be an inlet. While the side of the hull is a popular choice for pump outlets in my club, it's also possible to flood through the pump outlet. I have seen ships sunk by this (and a pump failure), so don't mount your pump too low. Also, are you planning to have a water channel? What about pump location?
