Steampunk Boat Building

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Astrosaint, Jul 30, 2014.

  1. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Oh, they'll reverse.
     
  2. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    Dramatically even.
     
  3. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    Aren't there images of one of the Essex class CV's steaming in full reverse, conducting air operations? I remember seeing it but can't remember the ship.
     
  4. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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  5. Astrosaint

    Astrosaint Active Member

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    Greetings:
    While I wait for a pump, I have been sketching the layout of the Super Structure for BB-000
    on the plank that tops off the hull. The most helpful document that I have is a copy of instructions from a 1:700 scale Japanese Cast Resin scale model of the 1895 Texas. I agree that it is an interesting 19th century design for an ACR.
    MMJR
     
  6. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    That's the one I was thinking of.
    Thanks Nick.
     
  7. McSpuds

    McSpuds Vendor

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    After you grow tired of sitting at the shore over and over while the ship you rammed patches the hole, you will install a reverse!

    We use reverse to STOP, this prevents rams which is frowned upon greatly! o_O

    It's ok, every rookie goes through these thoughts of insanity(Tuggy still does:laugh:), but once you attend your first battle, you will understand a lot more about this hobby.
     
  8. Astrosaint

    Astrosaint Active Member

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    Even if I had reverse, I doubt I could engage it in time to do any good. This is why I spend time running the Bebop by water weeds. If I hit or come too close to them, the prop fowls and I am swimming after it. Not having reverse changes how you operate a model boat. I am getting proficiency in dodging nature's mindfields. One mentor had a newbie put fun noodle type foam on the bow. I too may do that to protect other ships from impacts.
    My biggest concern, not being able to set up the 2 cannon. I have no prior experience and the BC guys must use some type of sorcery to do it. I found the instructions to be confusing. I also wonder what happens when the Co2 tank is empty. I will be doing my best with the plumbing when I reach that point of the build but I am not good are armament.
    :confused:
    Super structure is going well. I will start on that today.----MMJR
     
  9. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Guns&Gas:
    When the tank is empty, the guns stop going 'pew pew'. That one's easy. If you have questions on the plumbing there are plenty here who can answer them, with diagrams and bells and 3 different ways to do anything, each way described three ways.

    Reverse:
    I'm not sure why you don't think you could engage reverse? There's no shifting of gears, no clutch pedal, you just slam the stick backwards.
    There is a world of difference between slowing to a stop and reversing to a stop in this game.
    Don't sell yourself short, make sure your ship can reverse, and learn to use it.
     
  10. McSpuds

    McSpuds Vendor

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    Gun: Battlersconnection or Strikemodels
    step one: end of gun magazine(the long end)connects to a 1/16" ID hose
    1/16" ID hose: Battlersconnection
    step two: other end of 1/16" ID hose connects to a 1/16" hose barb that is fitted onto a poppet valve
    1/16" hose barb: Battlersconnection or strikemodels
    2 port poppet valve: Battlersconnection
    step three: Poppet valve attaches to a hole in your watertight box. On the end of the poppet valve, you place a push button
    push button: Battlersconnection
    Step four: Inside the box, you set up a servo so that when the servo arm turns, it depresses the valve's push button in... for two guns, use two poppets and when servo arm swings one way it depresses one push button for gun A, and when it rotates the opposite direction, it will depress the other push buttonfor gun B
    servo: Hobby King or Strike
    Step five : A 1/8" hose barb is connected to the other hole in the poppet and a 1/8"ID hose attaches to it.
    1/8"hose bard: Battlersconnection or strikemodels
    1/8" ID hose: Battlersconnection
    step six: the other end of the 1/8" ID hose attaches to another 1/8" hose barb
    1/8" ID hose barb: Battlersconnection or Strikemodels
    step 7: the barb is attached to a pressure test valve
    valve: Battlersconnection or strikemodels
    step 8: the pressure test valve attaches to a regulator
    regulator: Battlersconnection or Strikemodels
    step 9: the regulator attaches to a bottle
    bottle: Battlersconnection or Strikemodels

    Hope this helps some... get with us at the next build session or battle, we can show you there as well.

    as for this........ :whistling::whistling::whistling:

    I seriously hope this was an attempt at humor! :D
     
  11. Astrosaint

    Astrosaint Active Member

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    That was to see who was awake.:p
    I got the layout done for the superstructure. Now I have to photointerpret heights for various objects like the masts. I have already glued some of the "anchors" for the cannon. I just wait for glue to dry. MMJR
     
  12. Astrosaint

    Astrosaint Active Member

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    Greetings:
    I would post an image but the forums seem to be tempermental...
    The superstructure for the USS Texas, BB-000, is now complete. I could use a few crow's nests but I lack a lathe to machine those.
    I can paint superstructure anytime. I have noticed that the top deck that holds the superstructure has warped in some odd places. I am not going to worry about it. I plan to use wing nuts to hold the superstructure in place. The deck is not flat enough for magnets.
    I am happy with the results...
    MMJR:D
     
  13. Astrosaint

    Astrosaint Active Member

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    Over the last few days, I have been working on the motor mount and attaching the 550 ish motor to the shaft/prop assembly that was agreed to (Vac-U-Boat's).
    I also added the rudder post and put in a BC scratch and dent rudder that looks to be something in the class 6/7 range.
    I powered up the motor for the first time and was pleased at how much RPM the prop was making.
    I only have the Bebop for a model but 7.2 volts provides quite a bit of forward motion. I will test BB-000 at this voltage. If the ship is sluggish, I can upgrade to 14.4 volts. The motor is rated to 24 volts.

    Next step is to plank the hull.
    Manuel Mejia, Jr.
     
  14. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Don't plank it. Sheet it with 1/32" balsa. :)
     
  15. Astrosaint

    Astrosaint Active Member

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    I have sheets for this. Plank is a more obscure term. It is left over from when I built using popsticle sticks !;) How are the pumps coming ? I need to place it in before I can confidently outfit the interal machanisms.
    Manuel Mejia, Jr.
     
  16. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Work done for free is at the mercy of my HMS Malaya completion schedule. Pumps for Steampunk are under that category.
     
  17. Astrosaint

    Astrosaint Active Member

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    HMS Malaya ? That vessel is needed in action ! There is no rush on steampunk. Take your time and thanks you for all you do !:) MMJR
     
  18. Astrosaint

    Astrosaint Active Member

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    A small observation:
    When mounting CO2 cannons on steampunks, it is best to have the superstructure raised at least 1/2" above the hull so the bottoms of the BC/Strike cannons do not rub against the hull floor. I discovered this issue when mating the superstructure to the hull to test out the wing nut arrangement that I use to secure the two parts.
    I will be tilting the cannon so that they do not contact that bottom. MMJR