Off Market STYNGER MAX Hard Hitting, Fast Shooting Cannon

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Only thing missing is a video of it firing.

 

Looks awesome!

I know the solenoid isn't included, but may I ask which solenoid you normally use with one of these?

 

With the bottom cap Steve is using any solenoid with an 1/8" NPT outlet will work. Pictured is a Spartan 12v solenoid.

 

Welllll, unless you're in the paperweight business....

 

Steve,
Thats cool.
Nikkk

 

What's the FPS of the bb at a fast firing battle tweak?
If three pop cans where lined up can it shoot though all of them.

 

@Bob I don't understand the general obsession with hitting power. We're only shooting through 1/32" balsa, and a few inches of water at most. I'm more interested in how FAST it can fire. When you've only got a second of time-on-target, that's what really counts. Show me your best itchy trigger finger!

 

3 cans is roughly (.004x6) thick Aluminum .024". Ouch is the only way to discribe it. If we can shoot through that, all 50 times from one gun then NAMBA should charge us more.

 

The balsa in thin when there is no water and the angle is good. When you have a bow sidemount that is ranged out and has to shoot through 2"-3" of water then go through balsa at a high angle you need the hitting power to do it or it will just bounce off. You'd think stern guns don't need as much power but a lot of time they are skimming through water to get hits at the water line. Watch video with good stern guns the bbs throw up water for 3"+ before they hit balsa. If you don't want your shots to miss (well actually hit but not make a hole) you need some speed from the bb.
Using FPS is about the only way to measure how good a gun is. I've heard a lot of people talk about how great their guns are. Then tested the FPS only to find that they are the same as everyone else. From the many guns I have tested you need an FPS around 210-220 to be effective. Fast guns are around 250. The top ones I have seen go 280. You can make them get into the 300 but the tweak is too tight for battling.
The pop can test started before lots of people had cronos. Good guns blow through one can and into the 2nd. Great guns can make it out of the 2nd and dent or get into the 3rd. Getting out of the 3rd one would be pretty hard.
Take a couple of ships and put them in a nice clean kiddy pool (one you don't care if you destroy) and test the range and angles and see what you can make holes with. You'll have to hold the ships and have someone fire.

 

We tested the standard BC guns, they did 230-240 fps with a fighting tweek, with a SS barrel we got 250-260. With the rifled barrels that Frank, Don, and I use they were 270-280, and my Kumano guns with the drilled .173 barrels are 290-300 fps. I did have to pre roll the BB's to make sure they pass before battle. After I started using Strike ammo, and they so far have all passed with out jamming.

Take any gun, have a 1/8 fitting, put on a tighter tolerance barrel, and go to max allowed length and you do 250-280 easily, which is plenty.

 

Chronograph, Chronometer, time, consistent accuracy, can I come live in your shop as a fly on the wall for a couple years plz? Promise not to get in the way or anything, although do you believe in the Premise that there is no stupid questions????? After all I survived many years in the Navy and still Volunteer for things!!!

 

Maybe these things should be considered in terms of kinetic energy? Many laws in countries around the globe mention a cut off at a certain number of joules.
For a 5.1 grain BB , 250 FPS is roughly one joule of energy. Whomever is getting to 300 FPS is shooting at you with BBs that have nearly 1.5 Joules of energy!

 

@SteveT44 From a basic theoretical standpoint, the combination of uptube length, barrel length will almost entirely control achievable FPS, and flow rate will control ROF. I did extensive testing with this for Big Gun cannons and torpedo systems, and the theoretical operation is the same, even if the hardware arrangement is different. The uptube is the storage volume for the gas that actually pushes the bb out the barrel. If it's too small for a given barrel length, your pressure will drop off early and won't be accelerating the bb for some portion of the barrel length. If it's too large for a given barrel length, you start down the path of diminishing returns, seeing smaller and smaller gains in exchange for more wasted gas and slower cycle times. The faster the flow rate, the less time it takes to pressurize the cannon and the higher your theoretical ROF will be. Of course, IRL you can somewhat compensate for a small up-tube with a high flow rate, some of the magazine also acts as gas storage, it takes time for the piston to reset, and real-world barrels have blow-by that leaks off some of your pressure.

@Bob I admit I'm rather inexperienced with stern cannons. Although I used them frequently back in the WWCC, our different safety test (penetration limit, rather than pressure limit) prevented them from causing any below-the-waterline damage to armored targets, even under ideal conditions. I will have to watch how people use them much more closely at the next battle, I had no idea they were useful for anything more than scoring points.

 

I like to line up the neighborhood children and see how many it will go thru

 

It will never be addressed until someone gets hit in the "jewels".

 

Yep, stern guns are tweaked!

 

In the Airsoft world, our weapons are governed by a maximum Joule ceiling of 1.5.

 

Obviously not tough enough to battle in Michigan

 

Warning joke starting
Are you using fat children or skinny ones? You can shoot through the skinny ones easier. That really should be a rule so we all shoot at the same size kids.
Joke has ended