Thanks all, got the SS barrels with my guns. I'm literally scrambling to get this ship running in time for NATS. So far, I started installing stuff from stern to bow, mostly because I have the stuff that goes in the stern. I have the rudders installed and the linkage going to the servo, plus the servo box is installed. Here is the rudder throw. I would have taken a photo of it going the other way, but I was charging the radio batteries and couldn't. The rudder linkage is very simple, Stiff wire is straightened then the ends are bent into the shape below. Easy to instal, and won't come out. Need some help here. Should the Co2 bottle be put in the bow the first way or the second way? It seems that both ways the valve on top is going to stick out of the deck, but in the first position, it will be in the SS SUFFREN HAS TEETH!!!!!!!!!! Had a disappointment the other night. The switch on the very back, right corner of my Turnigy 9X broke when I went to switch it. Tower Hobbies sell a replacement, so at least I can fix it. Enjoy,
Bottle in first position, get that heavy piece of brass (regulator) into the heart of the ship as much as you can. Also, watch those push rods carefully. Might be surprised about what can/will bend over a length. Use your fingers to gently supply resistance to the rudders and see if the rods deflect or the system locks up. Check that the arms and rods can't interfere with each other if one rudder rises up in the available vertical play.
I am with Nick, move the weight toward the center. Overall though the ship is coming along nicely. The pushrods could be a potential source of failure. Thicker wire/turnbuckles are always a simple upgrade though.
Ok, so going with the first setup. About how much up angle do I want to keep the Co2 from getting into the regulator and hoses? On the push rods, I'm very surprised with them. I did the stress test that Nick suggested and the rudder arm slipped before the rods even started to flex. So far, the rudder arms and push rods haven't interfered with each other, though I did have to trim the one horn on the servo horn to keep it from getting in the way of the push rod.
More angle is better in theory, but do what ever you can easily do and still make it fit inside the ship. Its not rocket science, and no one is going to take a protractor to your ship. Also however you mount it make it easy to remove the bottle.
Ok, so I've come up with this, the AWBHBBB. (All Wood Bottle Holder Built By Beaver ) I'm not sure if I'll need a foot on the bottom to give it more stability. I think I might have a legality issue on my hands, but I figured I would post my problem on here to see what you guys think. Here is what I think might be an issue. So what you're looking at here is the step between the bow and stern. I added some 1/4" plywood between the step to help strengthen it and keep the hull from flexing. The rules don't say anything about what can be done here, so I'm not sure if this is illegal hard area or not. What do you guys think? Do the barrels have to be scale widths apart? At scale width, my tweaking nuts are touching and I can't tweak them. Sitting 1" apart, they work really nicely and still fit in the turret. Should I go with the 1" apart? Also, do I want the guns in the first turret from the stern, or the second?
Technically that could be construed as illegal hard area. But given it is way up above the waterline I personally dont think it is a big deal. Others may feel differently and given that you plan to take it to Nats where people do tend to get more picky you might need to change that slightly. As to the guns, scale is best for looks but with cruisers that tends to be a lofty ideal. Make them as close together as you can make them and still be able to tweak them. You want the shots to land close together for maximum damage to the target. As to location the stern turret is best with the guns set to just clear the end of your stern deck. This will give you the flattest trajectory with makes for the largest effective zone in which to hit along the waterline. Aboves are points, but waterline hits are deadly if you can get enough of them.
Your step should have been at your rib. You'll probably get slack, even at Nats though, as a rookie with a cruiser. Be best if you ping the contest director or whoever is doing rules compliance at the event ahead of time and get an opinion. Guns look really high, a lot of up-tube there. You can use the C turret instead of D and depress the guns, but it will really narrow your engagement area vs if they were flat trajectory in the D turret. I'd agree with Hovey and suggest getting the guns a little closer together. Don't get them touching though, as you noted, its hard to tweak that way.
And on your gas system, I'd move that valve off the top and connect it with a wee tiny little 1/16" hose. You're only using it to test gas pressure, and position is not critical for that. And it sticks up gawdawful high.
The IRCWCC website says that Carl Camurati is the contest director. Should I email him and see what he thinks? The up-tubes are still their stock height from BC. I'll have to trim them when I figure out how much I need to take off. I'll see how close I can get them together. I don't have the fittings to do that, tug. Does it need to be there all the time, or can I just add it on to test pressure?
The necessary fittings are two small hose barbs and a short length of 1/16" hose. If you don't have them, I can mail them to you, they're small enough to fit a regular envelope.
Man, today has been like a birthday! Oh yeah, it is my birthday! Anyway, lots of "gifts" arrived in the mail today. ESC's from HK arrived, poppets from BC, and a pump from Tuggy. I connected a ESC to the drive motor to see how it worked. Other than the gears being noisy, the motor and ESC worked great. Now to waterproof them and install.
Did you put a piece of paper between the drive and driven gears before tightening the motor mount screws? There's supposed to be a little bit of space between them (about the thickness of a piece of paper!). Too tight, and it's really noisy.
Hey Beaver, She's looking great!! I can't wait to see the video of her on the pond BTW Happy Birthday Nikki
Just an Fyi. First weekend is Sept. Is TF-3. Try and bring her out. We sure could use more francies. Nikki
Does anybody have a Suffren hull that they can take some measurements for me? I need to know the length from the bow to the deck step, and from the step to the stern. I think I might have some trouble, but want to make sure. Also, can I have some general advice? How much off of the bottom of the waterchannel do I want the bottom of my pump?
Don't you have plans for the hull to measure off? If you think you're off by less than an inch, I wouldn't worry about it, just adjust your superstructure a little bit here and a little bit there to to make it look 'right'. Mine are usually about an 1/8 of an inch off the bottom.
