I'm going to be ordering from Hobby King sometime next week. I wanted to show you everything I was going to get, so I don't miss anything, or have something that won't work,. For the motor I was going to order this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11174__Turnigy_450_H2218_Brushless_outrunner_2500KV.html Motor for the pump: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=11175 Servos for the rudder and to fire the guns: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=3743&Product_Name=HXT_6.9kg_/_39.2g_/_.16sec_Twin_bearing_servo Motor ESC: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=11742 ESC for the pump motor: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6460 Battery: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=16224 Charger: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7028__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_accessories.html I think that's everything. If I missed something let me know. Would I need two servos to fire the guns, or just use one poppet valve to fire both guns? Beaver
I would get the programming card for the ESC -- you'll want to set 'Run Mode' to 'Two' (instant reverse) and 'Reverse Force' to 100%, and it's more convenient with the card. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9550__Hobby_King_Programming_Card_for_Car_ESC.html
No, I going to wait until I'm done with most of the ship before I order a radio. @ Tom Thanks, I never thought about a programing card. Beaver
Definitely get the programming card. Money well spent I will post my own build thread soon, got the rudder stuff and pump stuff in, sited the locations for the solenoids, battery, and CO2 bottle.
I'm looking forward to seeing your build thread. what size CO2 bottle would I need? I've been wandering, what is the difference between a solenoid and a servo & poppet? Just wanted to know, Beaver
I'm still working on the Suffren, but progress has been kind of slow. I broke the bow off trying to shape it (Oops), though it made it easier to work on. Pics are on the way, Beaver
I finally got the bow about shaped close to the way I want it. It took me about a week to get this far, but that was only about 15min a day. So it went from this ugly thing to........... To this not so ugly thing....... I also worked on gluing plywood on the stern to shape it. So there it is. It's not quite finished, but I think it will work. Doesn't have to be perfect, right? Hope you enjoy, Beaver
Doesnt removing the entire bow like in the picture create a weak point at the joint that could fail resulting in major damage? I am not sure if it will or wont.
It snapped off while I was working on it. I don't know if it will make a weak joint when I glue it back together. Only time will tell. I hope it works. Beaver
Yup, good old fiberglass. New disappointment happened today. Somehow the stern broke off. Uggg This ship should be full of patches by the time I'm done. lol I think I'm going to order the epoxy that Bob recommended. I going to need that soon. Beaver
I have a question that needs answered. Can I drill a hole in the first front rib, and then drill one in the bow at the same height? Then glue a wooden dowel into both holes for support. I don't think it would violate any rules. Beaver
IT depends. I am pretty sure it would simply because in most formats you need to have "X" amount of space between the balsa and any internal blast shielding which the dowel COULD qualify as. If you are trying to reinforce the bow try gluing it back on and then gluing 3 pieces of say 2" by 1/4" ply or something over the break one on the right and left and then one on top. should actually be overkill once you have the hard area and cap rail installed.
The way you suggested sounds like it will work, but gluing the plywood on would make it wider that its supposed to be. Wouldn't it? If I use two dowels and glue the bow back on, later I can reinforce with fiberglass to make it stronger without adding more width. Beaver
hmmm good point I did not realize how far forward it had broken. you could just glue one to the top to help the glue set right and in position then fiberglass it.. once you have it glassed it should not be an issue anymore.
LOL, I'm going to do as Jstod suggested. Once I have the hard area in and the subdeck glued on, it should be as hard as rock. ( Ok, maybe not that hard) @ Tugboat When are you going to post your Foch thread? Beaver
