The 1/96 Yamato Brainstorming thread

Discussion in 'Southeast Attack Squadron' started by Tugboat, Feb 10, 2007.

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  1. Mark

    Mark Active Member

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    Carl do you think these people would be willing to share their findings?? also the only ultra sonic detection systems I've found (lynoxmotion)have a max range of 3 meters, you know of any better ones?
     
    Mark, Feb 17, 2007
    #21
  2. Mark

    Mark Active Member

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    Tug, would it be possible for you to e-mail me the plans you have in 1/96 soon so I might be able to get some of these other guys going on their ships, and maybe make up their minds on what they want to build, that would be great. Side note my 12year old nephew stopped in today and saw the ship and showed great interest in the hobby, my sister and brother-in-law are going to kill me, I might just build him a destroyer:) what did you think about making those armor panels fot the Yamato? saw a cool smoke machine that might just end up in the stack of the boat
     
    Mark, Feb 17, 2007
    #22
  3. iamscottym

    iamscottym Member

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    Mark, the srf 08 by devantech is good to 4m. Cheap construction site range finders are also ultrasonic, with significantly longer ranges (20+ yards). I've used a small Bosch one about the size of 2 decks of cards back to back. I believe it was around $150. Of course, you'd need to hack it to output the data to your micro, rather than just a display.
     
    iamscottym, Feb 18, 2007
    #23
  4. Mark

    Mark Active Member

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    I'll look into , thanks. Update on the hull construction, epoxied the inside of the ship a few days ago and the outside is ready to be glassed. also made the skeg for the large rudder and will attatch it tommorow. I cut out the rudders from ply wood and was going to shape them up then epoxy + glass them. anyone see any drawbacks to doing it this way?
     
    Mark, Feb 21, 2007
    #24
  5. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    That's how I do mine. They hold up well and look good. I'll get the plans out soon, I have a do-or-die test on Monday, and I'm studying pretty heavily for it.
     
    Tugboat, Feb 21, 2007
    #25
  6. Mark

    Mark Active Member

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    just posted some more photos in the gallery of my progress on the ship
     
    Mark, Feb 24, 2007
    #26
  7. Mark

    Mark Active Member

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    How'd the test go? are you going to stick with the med feild, or you going into the rc warship biz?:D anyway talked to Bill over at BDE and its still going to be a few weeks before I get my mains in so I'll just have to work on some other parts of the boat. Any ideas on who makes decent props and shafts for my application that won't break the bank? and also wondering what type of material and how thick should the deck be made?
     
    Mark, Feb 27, 2007
    #27
  8. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    LOL If I could do it without getting disowned by 2 sets of parents and permanently put in the doghouse by my wife, hells yes, I'd go into business :) Med school SUUUUUCCCKKKKSSSS!!!! So anyway, I did reasonably well. Not A+, but a reasonably strong B. 3 weeks till the next one :(

    My Anatomy of the Ship book hasn't gotten here, yet, but I will be working as soon as it does (provided it's not right before the next test). The main turrets will be first on the list of Yammer parts. For the Allied BB commanders in 1/144, I got some more work done on the Kingfisher.

    As far as the deck, we are in new territory for me. The 1/96 BB's are so wide.... I will probably do 1/4" plywood, with bracing on the underside of the deck. I've been thinking on ships for that, too :) I have plans for many ships, but battleship-wise: USS NC, USS SD, HMS Vanguard, FS Jean Bart, IJN Hyuga/Ise, and DKM Bismarck. Tough choice, I initially was going to do the North Carolina, but some of the others :) hmmm...
     
    Tugboat, Feb 27, 2007
    #28
  9. Mark

    Mark Active Member

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    1/4" ply? Oh boy, I already routered the cap rail down to 1/8" and set my cross braces to match:( I guess I could router out the deck to match. You don't think 1/4" will add too much weight topside? Not reall too concerned with the yamato do to its lack of superstructure, but other ships with more might suffer from the extra weight. any hint on where I can look for props and shafts for my ship that will be of the right size and not too$$$$$?
     
    Mark, Feb 27, 2007
    #29
  10. Mark

    Mark Active Member

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    One more thing, if you are thinking of doing a different ship might I suggest an Axis one:) It seems like there's going to be Allied scum up here than Axis:( just getting started and going to be outnumbered, damn it. good news there's someone in the next town over thats looking to get involved, Ill try to be in contact with him by this weekend.
     
    Mark, Feb 27, 2007
    #30
  11. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Actually, since I have the Anatomy book on Bismarck, I was thinking... Tirpitz! Fast, feared, and oh, she had torpedoes. Of course, Hyuga had a zillion secondaries. Probably enough BBs in one shot to roll a cruiser over just from KE transfer :)
    On the deck, thinking on it, I was thinking 1/8 and typed 1/4. 1/8 with a good bit of bracing would do it (probably). The deck isn't too bad for topside weight, the superstructure would be a bugger. I typically do the bottom inch or so in 1/4" ply (for real this time), and get thinner as I go up. With my future big ship using 36AH of 12V batteries, I am not worried about stability :) Yet.

    And remember, fellow axis villain... "Outnumbered, but NEVER outclassed!"

    Now that Brian K is back from the battle, I'm going to bug him about helping me with the 1/96 website (although we need a proper name :) I will be working on dressing up the 1/96 rules, and will email those to you sometime. Nothing dramatic, but I have been thinking on the submarine rules :) We can figure out the penetration drop tests for the balsa later.
     
    Tugboat, Feb 27, 2007
    #31
  12. Mark

    Mark Active Member

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    Now that would be a nice boat to see (Tirpitz) in 1/96 scale! Was't the set up on that 4 double mains, 10 double 2nd, planes and TT? If you go that rout you will suffer the same weapon control issues I'll be dealing with (be nice to share the head ache with others:). It would also cover the flagship class for Germany, no one up here has even considered doing that one. ?did you get the e-mail I sent you reguarding the gun rules?
     
    Mark, Feb 27, 2007
    #32
  13. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

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    I know that the Big Gun clubs do not currently have a drop test. I believe we could benefit from one, so you'll have to let me know your results, ok?
     
    Kotori87, Feb 28, 2007
    #33
  14. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Mark, I've been thinking about the method someone on here proposed about the rotating slide rule someone proposed for gun control. rotate the pointer, and slide the range slider, and the computer tells the guns to point. It's not all that demanding a program to write, just have to find the right computer on a chip to drive it.
    I must admit doing a ship that no one else has (yet) is tempting :) Besides, the Bis and Tirpitz were beautiful ships. It'd be nice to see one of them cruising around and be good for recruiting down here :)
    I got mail? :) Glee!

    Carl, I'll let you know when we have a good test. Might be a spring break project while epoxy and resin cure on other things.
     
    Tugboat, Feb 28, 2007
    #34
  15. Mark

    Mark Active Member

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    Took some 1/8" balsa I had laying around to see how it will go on the hull, that stuff does not like to make curves. It keeps cracking when I apply it to the torpedo bulge. Anyone got some advice?
     
    Mark, Mar 7, 2007
    #35
  16. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

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    Get softer balsa? I've heard that it's easier to bend when its wet, but I've never tried it myself. If balsa cracks on me its usually AFTER I've applied the glue, so I just fill, sand, then silkspan over the damaged area. It may also help to skin smaller sections of the boat at one time.
     
    Kotori87, Mar 7, 2007
    #36
  17. Mark

    Mark Active Member

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    any suggestions on where I can get quality balsa in bulk at a good price? hoping to get the final coat of epoxy and fiberglass on the exterior of the ship this weekend then its on to the water chanel. The way its turning out the hull empty of all gear will be around 60 pounds or so which will give me about 125 pounds to play with, ahh the possibilities:)
     
    Mark, Mar 9, 2007
    #37
  18. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    You can soak the balsa then place it on the hull while it is wet to get the conformed shape. It works for me.

    Curt
     
    CURT, Mar 11, 2007
    #38
  19. Mark

    Mark Active Member

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    how small should the pieces be? 1 or 2 rib spacings? and curt you use 1/32" thick balsa that might soak better than 1/8" balsa, would boiling/ steaming weaken the balsa any? I tried soaking but the balsa just wouldn't absorb water to soften up...help:(
     
    Mark, Mar 12, 2007
    #39
  20. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    From my real-boat-building-trivia bank... steaming wood makes it very bendy... I will be building a little steam box for Tirpitz when I get around to sheeting her. Shove in 4 or 5 pieces of balsa, with spacers between them (like 1/4") and fill the box with steam. Balsa's a lot more pliant than most woods, so it probably won't take long to get very pliable... Pull a sheet out, fit it to the frames & let the adhesive harden & Voila! (That's french for "we surrender")
     
    Tugboat, Mar 13, 2007
    #40
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