The Liberty

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Aggie9255, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. Aggie9255

    Aggie9255 New Member

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    Well i have chose to make the build just, as just getting som building skill in, i have the hull fiberglassed and all the running gear in, including the electronics, so now i need to do the upper deck, and super structure.
     
  2. Aggie9255

    Aggie9255 New Member

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    Well my coupler ripped apart...so im waiting on a new one but did a float/leak test and surprised there were no leaks....atleast that i could see/find. So i started the work on my SS. I was wondering what type of paint I should get since im getting to that point. I took out that pole in the middle of the SS and placed a smoke stack in its place it was a use for a marker. Back ground is a truck from my first christmas 22 years ago just a fun fact.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Aggie9255

    Aggie9255 New Member

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    Can I get some feed back please?
     
  4. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

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    Looking good. Just about any paint you find in a hobby/craft shop except epoxy will work. The common ones are (IIRC) acrylic and enamel. Just don't mix types, or you may have issues.
     
  5. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    You had no leaks, so you're already ahead of my typical sheeting job :)
     
  6. Aggie9255

    Aggie9255 New Member

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    Alright thanks you guys
     
  7. DarrenScott

    DarrenScott -->> C T D <<--

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    Very nice! All those little panels and no leaks? Wow!
    Since my liberty is a fibreglass hull, I generally sheet each side in one piece, silkspan the outside and rely primarily on the silkspan to make her watertight.
    I then hit it with a coat of grey spraycan primer. When it's dry, I use Tamiya acrylics for any Camo. The Tamiya paint accepts silkspan and dope patches readily and touches up evenly.
     
  8. Aggie9255

    Aggie9255 New Member

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    Well spent the day finishing up the Liberty Ship paint job, once i get my coupler mailed to me ill have it on the pond and do a final test after putting the drive shaft and rudder back in.
    [​IMG]
    Not bad for my first ever build. Some details missing that i plan adding later but im happy to be done.
     
  9. jstod

    jstod Well-Known Member

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    looks great!
     
  10. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Looks great for a first build, better than 'not bad'! When you resheet her, my recommendation is to buy 1/4" pinstriping tape from NAPA or some car place, and use that for the waterline. It looks sharp and it's WAY easier than painting one :) But very well done; I can't wait to see water-borne pics!
     
  11. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Looks great for a first build, better than 'not bad'! When you resheet her, my recommendation is to buy 1/4" pinstriping tape from NAPA or some car place, and use that for the waterline. It looks sharp and it's WAY easier than painting one :) But very well done; I can't wait to see water-borne pics!
     
  12. gunner250

    gunner250 Active Member

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    whats bass wood
     
  13. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    A softwood. Not as soft as balsa and bit denser. Fairly easy to work.
     
  14. gunner250

    gunner250 Active Member

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    ok thanks oh is it pine?
     
  15. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    No, it is Basswood.
     
  16. Knight4hire

    Knight4hire Active Member

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    Not bad for a first build!!!
    I am wondering where you found the measurements for the superstructure. (It looks a little tall) (I have built four or five superstructures in trying to get it right. I am still not happy with mine and will be building a new one in the near future)
    How long before you are ready for sea trials?
    Keep up the good work!
    Check out the action photo of a ship called Lumpy. (That is an armed liberty ship that I captain)
    On my first try at powering the ship, I had used eight "D" cell batteries. They were perfect for weight, because they made ballast unnecessary. but they also gave the motor too much power. (She was almost able to keep up with the warships!) I now run the motor on six "C" batteries. She is now running at her appropriate scale speed. I have a second battery pack of four "AA" batteries to run the ships RC gear.
    It was not easy to arm her. The coil magazine wraps around not only the steering linkage but also the prop drive shaft.
    The biggest problem I had was the rudder post. The rudder was on an angle so that the ship would make very tight turns in one direction, and hardly turn at all in the other! I plugged the post hole, put the hull in a drill press and drilled a new hole centered on the prop shaft. Now she turns on a dime in both directions.
    I have tried to post a photo here of my ship, but I must be doing something wrong.
     
  17. Knight4hire

    Knight4hire Active Member

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    Trying again