I believe the rules about stuff like that are posted on the wwcc website. http://www.westernwarshipcombat.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=17&Itemid=54
how do you figure out the rib spacing I cant tell because the plans are on adobe and and I don't know how to transfer a program from adobe to other programs.
You take the PDF files to a place that prints on large pieces of paper, have them print it out. You then measure the space between ribs and then select the appropriate thickness of plywood based on the rules I already posted a link to.
Looking at the document properties in adobe reader should let you know. I think you need something that can print on a roll of paper wider than 32".
I usually go with 1/4" aircraft ply for the subdeck, with a piece of 1/8" aircraft ply on top (together forming a 3/8" thick deck). You'd need to measure the spacing of the ribs on the plans and reference the rules linked to above to figure out what thickness of rib you are allowed.
Already done on the thickness and spacing of ribs didn't have to print it I set the plans to actual size scrolled down and measured 3 inches apart.I did not realize you-all use sub decks.
Gunner, is that measured center-to-center, or the open space between the ribs? Different Big Gun clubs measure their rib spacing in different ways, so be sure to clarify your measure. The WWCC ruleset has some diagrams to help explain. That said, it sounds like you'll get 3/8" thick ribs. It's also very common to use 1/4" for the sub-deck, and 1/8" for the deck itself. Although for smaller ships, I have seen thinner sub-decks and decks. For clarification, the sub-deck is the upper horizontal structure of a hull. It's the piece that the deck rests on, hence its name. From your comment, it sounded like you thought the sub-deck was something else.
I was trying to figure it out but I think I figured it out.Now why do the clubs specify how thick your ribs have to be.
So people don't show up with ships that are largely impenetrable because they have something ridiculous like 4" ribs with 1/16" spacing.
I've seen people botch their rib-spacing calculations, but that was usually an easy fix. What's worse is when somebody botches their overall dimensions calculations, that is not so easy to fix. For example, I saw somebody buy a used USS North Carolina hull that hadn't seen combat since the 80's. Its beam was off by almost 2", and there was no way to correct the issue. He turned it into a beautiful shelf model, but it could not be used in combat. Another problem I've seen is surface treatments. We allow silkspan with dope to stick it to the balsa, but I've seen people try other, less-than-legal methods. For example epoxy, ultra-thick latex house paint, or superglue. This was mostly a problem before I joined, and was quickly dealt with once the club's tech officers learned how to identify it.