This Old Machine: Re-purposing an Engraver as a 3D Printer

Discussion in 'Digital Design and Fabrication' started by jch72, Jun 8, 2015.

  1. jch72

    jch72 Active Member

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  2. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Wow, lots of options there! Very cool. Glad they're not too outrageous, price-wise, either.

    Are you doing a direct drive, or Bowden tube? (for the extruder type)
     
  3. jch72

    jch72 Active Member

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    Bowden tube. Fits in with later plans.
     
  4. jch72

    jch72 Active Member

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    Anybody got a pusher type they are fond of that they would be willing to print parts for me that works well with NEMA 14? I have 4 motors to use as pushers and a lot of bearings and I can cut the metal pusher gears pretty easy.
     
  5. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    a NEMA 14? What's the bolt pattern for the mounting screws?
     
  6. jch72

    jch72 Active Member

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    A 26 mm square (1.024"). The centering boss is 22.01 mm diameter (0.866").
     
  7. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    I'll see if I can find an extruder sized for a NEMA 14. Most are sized for bigger steppers.
     
  8. jch72

    jch72 Active Member

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    yeah the more common 17 size is a 31mm square. For the NEMA 14 stepper 700 g*cm holding torque minus 90 g*cm detent torque is 610 g*gm ~= 6 N*cm ~= 8.5 oz*in running torque at low speed. Pretty marginal, but it might work. Can't hurt to try.

    If you have a pusher model you like that works well with a NEMA 17 I can modify the model to fit a NEMA 14.
     
  9. jch72

    jch72 Active Member

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    I got all the lead screws swapped out for 8 mm diameter metric lead screws, 8 mm lead and extended the Z axis travel to 200 mm, even though I can only use about 125 mm of that due to the gantry clearance. So that gives 0.04 mm full step resolution and about 0.0025 mm (around 0.0001 inch) with 1/16 microstepping. 450 RPM on the steppers gives 60 mm/s. I will have to experiment some once I get it wired up to see how fast the smoothie can move it without skipping steps.

    In the process of mounting the lead screws I discovered I really don't like tapping stainless steel lead screws on my tiny lathe, it is probably worth it to pay for the machining at the factory, since they seem to have about a week of lead time anyway.

    The machine's usable travel between the Y guide rails with a hot end almost exactly matches the glass sitting on a regular sized 214 *214 mm MK2b heated bed. Starting work on the wiring now. I think I now have all the components needed to get it running here except the pusher for the extruder.
     
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  10. jch72

    jch72 Active Member

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    Have about 2/3 of the wiring done, is anybody up for printing me some extruder mounting bracket parts? I have are design ready. Also have a Ar 196 and a Supermarine Walrus model ready to go when I done this printer done.
     
  11. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    I can if you need, but i keep my printer at work so can only print monday through Thursday
     
  12. jch72

    jch72 Active Member

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    IMG_0774.JPG
    Distance between hot ends and filament drivers is adjustable
    IMG_0775.JPG
    Before adding pinch gears, bearings and adjustment spring / screw.
    IMG_0776.JPG
    Thanks Nick for the nice printed brackets! I'm much closer to printing now that I have the hot ends mounted. Was the insulation wrapped around the heated blocks with tape really necessary? I took it off. Maybe I will stick a washer between the heated block and the fans to reduce heating the fan shroud from radiation. Need a couple more M6 nuts to do that. Then on to thermocouples and fixing a problem with not enough serial channels to run both thermocouple boards and the display.
     
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  13. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    I'm really curious to see this all put together and running.
     
  14. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Also, I seem to have missed your questions there...

    You probably don't need to worry about the plastic shroud melting as long as its ABS and not PLA. Even then its most likely nto to do much more than soften and deform a little near the bottom.

    The insulation around the heating block helps but isn't essential. Do not add more thermal mass between the block and radiating fins. That gap is the heatbreak and its important that it be a sharp transition thermally speaking to prevent filament from melting too early. You'll also be increasing the mass that your hot end heater will be trying to heat.
     
  15. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Soooo, does it work yet? :)
     
  16. jch72

    jch72 Active Member

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    Little bit of life getting in the way, removing alpha crapware called Windows 10 by restoring a 1.5 year old backup. On the printer I still have to finish wiring the thermocouple cards and LCD, then tell the software where everything is plugged in before I can get it moving and heating. Finally got a DLP projector in the house so playing with light cured resin is a future possibility.
     
  17. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    focus now, run off and start playing with that and you'll never get this done
     
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  18. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    You ran off and played with something else, didn't you?
     
  19. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Look, Squirrel! :)
    [​IMG]
     
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