Turnigy TGY-i6 AFHDS Transmitter and 6CH Receiver (Mode 1)

This is why I don't like hobbyking. They're too good at there job! If I put a new transmitter in my cart I'll buy a million other things... Oh, the agony of savings...

 

Has anyone converted this Transmitter to push buttons on the right sidereplacing the joystick for push buttons?
I've read the How to's on this site but having trouble with the wiring schematics to getting east-west buttons working and have only the south button working.. (but I think the end point will fix the north button.)

 

I will convert the two pots on top to gun controls. Easier than the gimbal..

Question on what switch to buy?
Any good spdt momentary switch recommendations?

 

I just tested this radio and it is hitting way above what I expected.

Very good deal!

 

I use ones like these http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/msmFbvgG
+There low profile +they have a good diameter +cheap, common
-the part you push is pretty flat so you have too glue an extension to them(I 3d print mine) -they can be a bit hard to solder to
I'm sure the perfect switch exists somewhere, but I like these.

 

Is it easy to add buttons as fire control?
And
Are there step by step instructions for those us like myself who are not naturally gifted

 

C&K 8121SHCGE or similar (pretty much anything in the C&K 8121 series, but the E in the part number means it is an epoxy sealed switch, required in a boat, nice to have in a radio.) You can get little caps for them or make your own if you're so inclined. They aren't super cheap, about $7 these days, found some for ~$2 one time, they were knock-offs. (they still work so not a huge deal)

Yes, it's just some basic soldering.
This is a fairly good starting point, the basic principal/circuit stuff hasnt really changed.
http://www.scrapcombatships.com/articles/howto/BE-radiomodvg600.html

 

This is a great article and the circuit schematics are exactly what I've done on my TGY-i6 radio. I converted channel 5 and 6 to pushbuttons mounted on the back side of the radio.

 

Hey Jeff that is exactly what I have in mind to do. If you have a minute any chance you’d post some pics of how the internal looks on that?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/QTY-10-812...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

6 proportional and four switches on top of two of the proportional.

The best of both worlds, you don't disable anything.

And $32 OH MY.

I did the botton conversion and it was simple. Only four switches (spdt momentary) are needed (you use the existing pots) and a small amount of soldering and wire.

Build photos to follow:

 

My implementation follows the circuit diagram shown below from the SCRAP article shown below. The only difference is my super-rushed and poor quality soldering job.... I took a Made-In-China transmitter and made its internal build quality much worse! (Just joking about the transmitter... it's actually well built, and I really like it)

I used locally sourced switches... Consider using a through-hole circuit board or surface mount momentary switch like the attached link. These are fairly low profile and are easier to fit in the existing radio case than a panel mount one that has an extended back end.


View: https://www.amazon.com/Yoohey-Panel-Switch-Button-12x12x6MM/dp/B07N2W6VSM/ref=sr_1_39?keywords=push+button+switch+board+mount&qid=1572203176&sr=8-39

 

You did a better job then what I could do lol looks great

 

Those are the switches I used, as I said earlier they are not meant for applications like this and you need to be careful not to glue down the switch if you chose to glue it. And you need something to extend the button so it can stick out of the housing.

 

This preserved the pots without adding resistors.

 

Also the pots can set center, handy.

 

Unplug to do the work (kind of nice).

 

Hi guys.
I purchased a Turnigy TGY -i6 from HobbyKing since it has programmable settings. I could use help from the technically savvy members here. I have removed the right stick and replaced with push buttons. I know all 4 buttons solder joints work when tested using a ohm meter on sound.
My problem is getting past the first warning display on my TX. It required all switches to be in the up mode and the throttle at its lowest setting. Since its factory setting for airplane, my problem is to have the throttle at neutral rather than at the 6 oclock location. The owners manual says it can be programmed for either Airplane or Heli. So I'm at a loss how to get past this issue.
For discussion purposes the three wires had 1 odd colour and 2 same colours to each of the joystick controls. So I put the odd colour as my common and the 2 same colours (1 to each button).​

 

Maybe there is a way to do it in software, but easiest may be to swap the inputs from the two sticks (or pushbutton side and stick side in your case). That way you can achieve the throttle down condition at startup with the remaining stick.