See the attached schematic . Just FYI if you accidentally push the fire control buttons Simultaneously it’s like shorting the black and yellow wire together the radio will shut down. The radio powers back up when released.I’m not sure if this would be a good thing in combat situations. But to help keep this from happing. I put distance between my buttons. John Z.
Dude, you're shorting your radio out, don't do that. Use resistors with your switches so that if you accidentally push both, it won't be a direct short. I don't remember the exact values offhand, but someone around here probably does.
Agreed, shorting out your radio should be avoided. The exact resistor values are somewhat flexible as you're just using them to build a voltage divider. They should be symmetric around the signal wire and the ratio of the resistor across the switch and the resistor in series with the switch determines how much "throw" you get out of the button. This is the setup I typically use/recommend but there are other versions that work just as well.
I tried using resistors in line basically the same thing you have drawn snipehunter but the controller did not like it. still shorting it self out. I could try to gate with diodes. but as of now its working fine
This radio uses 4 wires instead of 6 like the Spektrum. I am not sure what yellow does (+ from batt?) but it is shared. I had trouble with it.. I had it working on a breadboard but was unable to make it work in the radio.
That sure sounds like shared V+ and a shared GND lines, removing a set of wires was probably a cost savings. The circuit would still work in that case but getting the resistors and switches wired in the correct places might be a little trickier. If the gimbals on based on potentiometers (an adjustable voltage divider) replacing it with a fixed voltage divider isnt going to stop it from working. It might be sensitive to the current and need resistors matched closer to the same range the potentiometers have.
I had it working on breadboard. Had trouble making the proto board. I don't remember what I did anymore though...
Well I wanted to come back and revisit this. Well after some reverse engineering and help from Brian K and his son Chris. I final wrapped my head around it. Push buttons install and working I used 3k ohm resistors. Between each button. I have modified three controllers so far I will say that the fly sky knock off uses black and white wires
Add a small resistor in series on yellow and black (The +3.3v and ground I think, maybe not in that order), right now if you push up and down (or left and right) at the same time you will short out the radio. On a Spectrum DX6i this just makes it reboot. I don't know what it does to this radio. I measure the resistance across both potentiometers on the stick as 2.4k, so 200 ohm in series on both yellow and black matches that if you use 2k ohm across the buttons like your diagram. The blue resistors in your radio are 110 ohm. You want red/black/black/brown/gold in a 5 band 2k ohm resistor across the buttons, and red/black/black/black/gold in series with the power wires to approximately match the gimbal potentiometers.
Matching the gimbal potentiometers doesn't really matter as long as you don't use too low of values and make the circuit draw more current then the microcontroller can handle.
I tried adding several resistors combinations. It doesn’t like resistance on the power wires. But I understand where your coming from
