U.S.S. Des Moines

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by dmiowac134, Nov 22, 2014.

  1. dmiowac134

    dmiowac134 Active Member

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    20151102_103728.jpg Trying to secure guns better after magazines are added. Will post pictures in a bit. Have a question about length of accumulation tanks. I've got them 4" long. Is that too long for the U.S.S. Des Moines?The 3 tanks are 3/4", is that too big of a diameter. Also need help with steps to solder tanks to kip solinods. Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2016
  2. dmiowac134

    dmiowac134 Active Member

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    Was thinking about putting motors in this configuration, to help with water channeling and so they are not too high from bottom of hull. 20160823_113738.jpg
     
  3. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    Those are probably a tad bigger/heavier than you'll want/need. Different people have different thoughts on how large they should be and how tank size effects shot power and ROF so you're unlikely to find a consensus. I'd wager most people just wing-it anyway without putting much thought into it. Maybe drop down to 1/2" pipe and 2-3 in long, you'll save some weight and space and I bet you would be hard pressed to tell a significant effect on the cannons. (not that you need the strongest cannons anyway, sterns typically don't have to penetrate water to get to the balsa which is really where you need the power.)

    To attach Solenoids to tanks I drill a hole in the tank and solder a plug/nipple/fitting in place that has whatever threads you need for the solenoid on the other end. 10-32 fittings can be harder to find than standard npt pipe fittings but if you dont have some on hand are pretty easy to build out of some brass 10-32 nuts and bolts from the hardware store as long as you have a drill press or some method of drilling a straight-ish hole.


    On the motor mounts, that is a TON of "exposed" propshaft between the stuffing tubes and the gear. That's a bad idea. try to either move the motors back or somehow support and enclose those shafts so they dont catch anything while they are spinning and so they don't have the ability to flex which can cause you all sorts of problems down the road.
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2016
  4. dmiowac134

    dmiowac134 Active Member

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    Thanks SnipeHunter, I'll work on shafts and tanks in the next few days.
     
  5. dmiowac134

    dmiowac134 Active Member

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    Finally got guns mounted to were I feel good, but now have issue with drive shaft. 20160827_162246.jpg 20160827_162314.jpg
     
  6. dmiowac134

    dmiowac134 Active Member

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    Changed guns around a bit and got better results. Need to redo gun mount and barbette tho and also need to ditch gears and go with dog bones.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2016
  7. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    its always fun trying to pack everything in back there
     
  8. dmiowac134

    dmiowac134 Active Member

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    Yes it is, frustrated right now. So I took off gun mount and barbette. Replaced barbette with new one (got 3 from BC), redoing gun mount with drill press.
     
  9. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    might not fit, but you might be able to turn your motor mounts backwards and sit the motors above the shafts. Not sure if the gears will mesh before the can runs into the stuffing tube that way though

    edit: I dont think it would fit. Maybe with bigger gears.