U.S.S. Omaha Build, WWCC Big Gun

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Julian Barbera, Jan 11, 2020.

  1. Nibbles1

    Nibbles1 Well-Known Member

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  2. Julian Barbera

    Julian Barbera Active Member

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    Been a while since the last update, but better late than never!
    IMG-5613.jpg This is a pic of my offset line drawer hard at work! I found the best position to hold it and get the nicest lines.
    IMG-5612.jpg Rib with a finished line, this is the line that I will cut to "hollow" the rib.
    IMG-5614.jpg Ribwich!
    IMG-5616.jpg "Stairway to heaven"
    IMG-5650.jpg The interesting setup I made to draw straight lines on my keel for the ribs to slot into.
    IMG-5661.jpg First fitting of ribs into the keel, a bit lose but I can work with it! In Mike's Omaha build thread you can see what it looks like with the upper middle part of the ribs cut out for the subdeck to fit into.
    IMG-5665.jpg This is my subdeck, cut the two sides out where the ribs will slot into, then to avoid the tricky scroll saw work I got on my hands and knees and chiseled them out with a flat head and a mallet!
    IMG-5667.jpg This is the inside of the boat with subdeck and keel together loosely.

    That's all for now, next I'll cut out the middle of the subdeck and make holes for my prop shafts!
     
  3. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Vendor

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    Just a suggestion from a wooden hull guy, I'd put a 1/8" notch through each rib at the bottom of the penetrable window. Use your ruleset's rule for how deep your penetrable areas should go and mark it off the scale waterline, worst thing that happens is if you load the boat to a deeper load than scale you will have windows that are a little too deep. Then run a 1/8" x 1/8" wood strip down the hull length through the notches, it'll really help stiffen it up and make it a lot easier to fiberglass the bottom.

    If you aren't sure what I'm talking about, check out my Jean Bart build.

    You can use a wider strip too, like 1/8x1/4 if you wanted, you'd just have to cut deeper into the ribs. Another suggestion is to leave part of the strip sticking proud from the ribs, that way you can sand it flush.
     
  4. Julian Barbera

    Julian Barbera Active Member

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    Thanks for the tips!
     
  5. Nibbles1

    Nibbles1 Well-Known Member

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    Ah... That makes sense.
    Good Work!
     
  6. Julian Barbera

    Julian Barbera Active Member

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    It's been awhile since I updated this thread but I haven't slowed down(much)!
    IMG-5825.jpg
    Here she is, all glued up together. Not much to say, I removed all the paper from the ribs and glued it together with some CA glue.
    IMG-5986.jpg IMG-5989.jpg IMG-5990.jpg
    These pictures show what I did to make the bow and stern. I took some scrap 1/4" and 1/8" ply and cut it down so it is about the shape im looking for. I glued the pieces together and gave it a rough sand on my belt sander until it was in near final form. I glued them onto the ship and finished sanding by hand. I think it turned out pretty well!
    IMG-5981.jpg
    These are my stringers. They measure 1/2 x 1/4 x 2 and fit snuggle into the bottom of the Omaha.
    IMG-6013.jpg
    IMG-6015.jpg
    I sheeted the bottom in small sections just so I could go slower and not worry about messing up as much. I cut the balsa into sections, soaked it in water for a bit and glued em in. I cleaned to the edges with an x-acto knife.
    IMG-6040.jpg
    I sanded down some rough spots and filled in small gaps with lightweight spacking. I think she looks pretty nice!

    For the past week I've been trying to position my prop shafts. I should just get along with it but I dont want to poke a hole in my wood and drill into my ribs just to be wrong.
     
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  7. Nibbles1

    Nibbles1 Well-Known Member

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    Wow Its looking really good.
     
  8. Z Boat

    Z Boat Well-Known Member

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    Looks good!
     
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  9. Julian Barbera

    Julian Barbera Active Member

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    Ok, it's been awhile. But I've gotten plenty done!
    First task was installing the propshafts
    IMG-6201.jpg
    I cut a round blank out of balsa to represent my props. I had the props but this is a more accurate representation of when there in motion.
    RenderedImage.jpg
    I used my dremmel to cut out the holes where the shafts slide into place and secured them with some CA. That's pretty much it for the shafts.
    7FFDA19F-A9AF-4555-B922-9362FF7D803E.JPG
    Since there is very limited space for the rudder gear I custom designed and 3D printed a rudder horn. It's real small but works perfect!
    B062A044-4285-4A16-AE95-5B600C18AE7E.JPG
    I carved out a hold for it with the dremmel (along with the prop shaft hole) and this pic is of me testing it with the rod and rudder shaft.
    CE57CE00-358A-44FB-A710-7954417AB525.JPG
    Heres my 3D printed rudder, not much to look at but I'm going to make some improvements then print it on my DLP printer.

    That's all for now. Trying to work out guns is taking a good bit because of the 'rona but where there's a will there's a way!
     

    Attached Files:

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  10. BigGunJeff

    BigGunJeff Well-Known Member

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    Looks really good. I'm very impressed with the project so far.

    For 3-D printed parts like your rudder, I've started improving surface finish by:

    1. Sand down the surface to the shape you want.
    2. For each void you want to fill, put a little baking soda in the void and apply some CA glue. (It cures instantly and is relatively easy to sand)
    3. Sand smooth
     
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  11. rcaircraftnut

    rcaircraftnut Well-Known Member

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    Been doing that with wood builds since the late 80's. Great way to fill gaps.
     
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  12. Julian Barbera

    Julian Barbera Active Member

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    Sounds neat! I'll try it!
     
  13. rcaircraftnut

    rcaircraftnut Well-Known Member

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    I often forget that I had the benefit of NO internet when I learned to build model's. I.E. I learned in person from old men who had been doing it since THIER childhood. So I got a lot of old school wisdom. But most of that seems to get lost in the shuffle on these msg boards. Glad to see more of these old tricks being re taught.
     
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  14. rcaircraftnut

    rcaircraftnut Well-Known Member

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    The ca will often fume up real good so be aware and keep your nose, eyes, ECT clear of fumes. And for Pete's sake either wear gloves or spray kicker on your hands before you you use the Johnny. Got to witness this happen to a childhood friend. Still makes me chuckle every time I think about it.
     
  15. Julian Barbera

    Julian Barbera Active Member

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    I’ll chuckle with ya!
     
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  16. Z Boat

    Z Boat Well-Known Member

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    I have started your reloading torpedo guns and they should be done this week end.
     
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  17. Julian Barbera

    Julian Barbera Active Member

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    Thanks! Tell me if you need any dimensions or info.
     
  18. Z Boat

    Z Boat Well-Known Member

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    Your guns should be done this week end. Had some trouble with the valves and I do not know how to get them to you because they look like pipe bombs.
     
  19. Julian Barbera

    Julian Barbera Active Member

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    Sounds good! As long as it's well packaged and properly labeled the shipment likely wont be examined.
     
  20. Julian Barbera

    Julian Barbera Active Member

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    61729916516--5B9421B9-A542-4ABD-85AF-06CA57281A08.JPG
    Not too much to show, got the guns in. I'm only using Velcro believe it or not! It's pretty solid. Final installment not shown. Ordered the r est of the pars for the gun system. School starts soon.