Stangle uses the Clippard mouse valves. He uses a 9 volt battery (Like the one you have in a smoke detector at home). Just tosses one every day after battle.
Thanks guys, email sent to John. Good news is the plans from Floating Drydock came in after being ordered just a few days ago. Was not sure as the website is not the most up to date and you don't get any email notifications on status, but he must have mailed the plans that same afternoon. Now to get them resized so I can start building the SS plug which will be made out of wood and styrene.
Spartan scientific or Clippard mme-2pds. Both come in 6v and 12v if I remember right. Higher flow than mouse valve. Under $30 each
I ran Badenlicious all last season with the Mice It was nice, they'll fire faster than I can keep up with I think they flow more than MAVs. Not giving up my MAVs in Scharnie, but for bigger ships they're quite good.
Found the link about the soleniods in this forum: http://www.rcnavalcombat.com/Forum/tabid/58/aff/567/aft/407899/afv/topic/Default.aspx The gist of it seems most were not that thrilled to be using them.
I dunno, I've never had a problem with them, and two unhappy users isn't convincing enough for me to stop Might make me look at other valves if I didn't have any bought yet, but not a deciding factor. The complaint about leaking if plumbed backwards is not a design flaw. It's a plumber flaw. Most valves leak when plumbed backwards, which is why they come with diagrams that show where the goes-ins and goes-outs are. The vlotage issue is someone complaining that they don't work properly when you attempt to use them at half their design voltage. By that standard, my ESCs are sub-par, same with my LiPO charger, the starter motor in my car, and my TV, and the list goes on and on. Corrosion issues and screw-stripping issues I'll take at face value and watch my valves & use anti-sieze and scotch-kote as suggested. But the rest aren't really valid complaints in my view.
Got the new batteries. Worked on the plug for the superstructure, as always the Floating Drydock plans were great. Instead of drilling holes for the portholes (these get destroyed when you pull it from the plug), I went with disks to represent the ship with all the metal covers on the portholes. Still more to add this week (doors, floats, etc...). Then I will build the plug and cast the SS out of expanding foam, so as i gets shot up I just pour a new one. Casting all the foam 5" guns, depending on weight I will have a few boats and the torpedo tubes. Keeping it simple, but I will add back the deck platforms if the weight allows it. Another side shot, I will add a few details to cover up the magnet spots. Now it is on to the internals with placement of items and building the guns. Then comes wiring (and the dynamite goes boom).
"And boom goes the dynamite" Come on Lou get the quotes right. Fires make more of a crackling sound, the batteries could go boom.
Got the batteries wired and coated. Wiring up the viper40, will do the motor wires when I figure out the center balance of the ship. Starting with a tangled mess. Question: On the strike model regulator, there are two plugs which are different sizes. Can the smaller one be use for an additional line?
There are 3 holes on the lightweight regulator. Steve plugs one before he ships the reg. I think it might be for straight unregulated CO2. The other two holes - the big one is 1/4 npt and high flow, the small one is 1/8 npt and low flow. I put one of the 250 psi pressure relief valves in the small port, makes a convienient way to drain the system and satisfies the requirement for a manufactured pressure relief valve. Weighs under two ounces I think. Has not leaked at all in two years so far. I have extras if you want one at the mwci Nats. Otherwise plug the small port, and use the big one for supplying the cannons. Ron Hunt
Thanks Ron. I have the adjustable version and was hoping to run two lines from the regulator, to use the large hole is proving to be a challenge. I was hoping that both were the same, only the hole sizes were different. I will look around for a 10/32 elbow (I think that is the size) and use a clippard brass fitting to split into two lines.
I just took mine to Lowes and played with things in the pipe parts section till I found one that I liked.
worked on the regulator, found a suitable fitting at Lowes and now have two gas lines. Had to drill and tap the fitting, but happy with the results. Replaced the part in the Kip with the replacement from BC (red top) , also changed out the o-rings as part of preventative maintenance. Changed the "in" port from being located on the side to being located on the bottom. The old port was closed off with a screw. As a related question, anyone have a decent website to order clippard parts? The cases are not the prettiest at this point but they are functional (Tugboat will love this look). Post NATS refit will be cleaning up the inside of the boat (I just have too much else to worry about that at this point). Could not get a gear to work in the space in the stern, so I have to live with this "wasted space" and made the servo hold down. Using two push-pull rods and 4-40 ball linkages for connecting. Might still change this setup, just trying to think of a cleaner solution that does not add more weight. Drive shafts are in, using a collar to keep the shaft in the ship (lost one before!) and also using SS set screws I purchased at McMaster-Carr so I can take this apart later. Standard gears should provide some nice torque on starting the ship. Space is tight, so I went ahead and soldered them together and will only use one deans connector.
Looks real good. Later on you could change to a double shaft one motor gearbox and save about 5 or 6 oz. if needed. Ron Hunt
I love that look, Lou. Very... utilitarian. Very... me. I think you should mount the pump outlet where it is in the pic with the motors What do we need to do to get you down to Statesboro for battles more often?
For Clippard parts, just order from their website and they will send the order to the closest dealer to you for shipment.
