Lots of work done, will post pictures tomorrow. Nothing fancy for this build, direct drive with 380's. But it will be ready for nats.
Smaller water proof (3 feet at least) Hitec servo with gear, I can get rid of the push rod setup. Servo mount made of fiberglass board, still need to insert the metal threads to hold it in place. Lets keep it simple and just go with direct drive. Got the props as close and parellel to the keel, this meant cutting the hull where the dog bones are located. I will cast blisters (basically a spoon shape) and attach to the outside of the hull. The face plate of the 390's does not lend itself to tapping, so I will come up with another way to hold the motors in place. Bow water channeling in with bottle holder. Nice shot of the deck edge and sub deck. Water tight cylinder
Bottle in place with a strike regulator. Using a 90 degree fitting to keep the height down and tapped on both sides so each gun has its own tube. BC micro pump. Will probably upgrade the motor when I refit after NATS with brushless. What you see behind the pump is the mid boat support (to keep the hull from flexing), this was made so that the guns can pull straight up with the deck and not have to try and angle everything each time the deck would come off. The new sexy deck. Actually made in three parts (1/32 fiberglass board), next time I will clean up the second (X's) for a more finished look. Wasn't sure if I would get the stiffness I needed and still keep the weight down, but so far so good. The siver disks are magnets that are flush with the top deck and bottom near the subdeck. Deck is very tight and no room for leaks, it just pulls straight up. Magnets are also located underneath the sub deck.
Shot of the stern showing the scale hull vesus the BC version with the extra allowance. I really like this hull.
Sheeted the port side, just need final sanding and silkspan/paint. Blast shield has also been added to the port side (inside of course). Gun mount. This one has been difficult as I dont want to have them so high in the air as to induce a roll in a turn. Finally settled on tubes below the 90 degree elbows and 1/8 sleeve bearings. Brought the guns in close together with just enough room between them to tweak the guns. View looking aft, the soleniods are just "in place" as I decide how to mount to the deck so they come out when the deck is removed. There is just not a lot of room back in the aft area. The Mtroniks 40 amp esc is wired and placed in the water channeling so aid in cooling and act as a backstop for the water that goes past the pump. Bad news on the pump, looks like I damaged the tabs to the motor, so now looking for a replacement. Height is an issue, would like to do brushless but cannot afford the weight of the Esc at this point. Tight, tight, tight. Bottle just fits. Hardest part of this build is keeping the weight centered. So much of the weight wants to be in the aft part of the ship, it is difficult finding the balance between building and having great guns (placement of soleniods). Apologies for any spelling issues, the spell checker on the site is not working...
Attaching the superstructure to the deck. Hull has the first coat of paint, once I float test it and mark the waterline I will add the waterline tape and clean it up. Getting a feel for how the stern guns will look, in this case the need to get the guns higher up will result in a less scale appearance but I will work on making it look a little better. Middle gun is temporary until I can cast a new one. Can't do a lot to this section until I float test and see how much more weight I have to work with on the boat. Overall view, these were great looking little ships.
Went back to the life batteries for the weight needed up front, this means this boat will run all day long without a battery swap. Currently the ship without all the wiring weighs in at 7lbs 15 oz. Mid deck view, was able to rewire the pump and put on a new hose. Pump is mounted to the hull with a 6/32 SS hold down, makes it easy to remove if needed. Still working on the magazines and their final bends. View of the ship without superstructure, she is a very clean build. The magnets are doing a great job holding the deck to the hull and with a pull on the front (bow), the deck comes off for easy lakeside work. You can just see the pump outlet to the left of the guns (right on the deck rim).
The pump discharge being all the way outboard isn't going to cause a rolling moment with the pump running, is it? Ty (or was it Randy? They're both so good looking it's hard to tell them apart) told me that having the pump outlet dead center was highly desirable. Even with Scharnie's mass and squat shape, I noticed less effect on the ship when I moved the outlet to the center. Ship looks mighty fine!
Clark, good point. I read that as well, will check tonight on how hard to move to the center. Thanks Stokomoto, it's been a real learning experience.
Hello: If you don't mind a question... Earlier in this thread, you received LifePO4 batteries. You then wired and 'coated' them on or about 6/27/2012. I'd like to know, if you please, what you used to coat them. Is the coating process necessary for LifePO4 batteries? Thank you, John
Working on the wiring and the WTC. All inside connections are done, currently finishing up the outside wiring and harness. In this shot you can see the final internal layout and the reworked pump as well as the placement of the speed controller. Wires are loose at this time. Thanks to Clark and Ty, I have the pump with an outlet in the center of the ship, this should reduce any rolling due to the pump stream. Location of the solenoids in the aft area of the ship. You can see how short the 1/8 tubing will be to the bottom of the guns, should make for rapid fire. The solenoids are attached to the top deck, but they actually rest on the bottom of the ship as well after many test fittings.
Tubing in place and fiberglass board "enhancement" to the bottom of the bottle to prevent any issues with the battery posts. Guns are dialed in, will make a new aft superstructure that will hide them but still allow me to tweak at lakeside. Going to cast it in two parts that split down the middle so it will be easy to remove.
Going with the disruptive scheme at time of loss, this also helps hide the crappy foam casting which will be corrected on the next version. Still painting to do, just seeing how well a paint pen works. Will do final float test and mark the waterline and finish the red paint. New pump outlet, superstructure just slides over it.
I used the spray on liquid electrical tape. Not a fan of unprotected ends, I can imagine a BB getting in there and shorting something out. And with my luck/history, it would be a good sized fire.
Ok maybe this is not an issue in FastGun but wouldnt the pump outlet pointing straight up like that mean the water will fall back down onto the ship possibly refilling it?
