USS Baltimore

I've tried it. It doesn't work. At flank speed they make some additional drag. But at turning speeds, they are sometimes more effective then the main props, which may cavitate at full throttle and low speed. The net result being slower acceleration when starting from a dead stop and slightly worse turning.

 

I suppose they could free spin, just no power.

 

I ordered a kit the other day. Waiting for it's arrival.

 

Received my kit today. The laser cut wood is great. Can't wait to start in on it.

 

Post some pics, and make sure to ask questions if you are unsure of something, preferably before doing the wrong thing

 

I will do that. Right now I am cutting out the frames.

 

I have all the parts cut out and ready to do dry fitting. Place an order today for pops and pump so when neaded I will have it.

 

I am fitting the frames and keel and sub deck. Question should the bottom of the keel be flush with the bottom of the ribs? Parts are very tight fitting so some sanding is required for a snug fight.

 

Thanks Nick. I thought they did. Some more sanding and fitting to do.

 

If they are a little tight I generally use a scrap piece of wood to pound them together or use channel lock pliers to squeeze them together. Because of the curvature of the hull, the keel will be a little below the bottom of the ribs, particularly at the stern. So don't make the notches any deeper or the deck will not be straight.

 

I have been giving them a slight nudge with a small mallet. So far going good

 

I am ready to skin the hull bottom on mine. Has a twist in the hull but worked it out.

 

I did not build this ship for battling since I have no one to battle with. Here are some pictures of the build.

 

Starting to look like a ship.

 

Will be a good looking ship on the water. Good job!