USS Boston Build

Discussion in 'New England Task Force (IRCWCC)' started by Powder Monkey, Feb 29, 2008.

  1. EricMA

    EricMA Member

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    Kewl I have the rudder in and I have cut the slots for the prop shafts. I plan on having the shafts and Motors in next week. I'll start a thread with pictures sometime next week. I have the subdeck cut out and i'm using it as a templet for the other ship.
     
  2. Powder Monkey

    Powder Monkey Active Member

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    excellent can’t wait to see it
     
  3. EricMA

    EricMA Member

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    Looks good. Whats holding the rubber band on the gears and is that what is holding the servo in place?
     
  4. Powder Monkey

    Powder Monkey Active Member

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    Yes that and some bubble gum.[;)]
    No it just holding the gears together so they line up while I measure were my blocks’ will go
     
  5. Powder Monkey

    Powder Monkey Active Member

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    Well I started my cannons and this is as far as I got now I’m lost [:(] not as easy as it looks

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Powder Monkey

    Powder Monkey Active Member

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    Using the directions from queens own I set the pump auto switch up. I put it all on the side of my pump with hot glue. I placed the copper sensors up just above the pump bottom so unless the pump is in water she won’t drain my battery and it is all one unit so I can pull it out with nothing to unhook but the two power leads or drag around technically it should work the nuts but we shall see what happens in the real world [;)]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [^]
     
  7. Bob

    Bob Well-Known Member

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    Hot glue is bad. Take it from a guy that used it. Worked fine in MN but my first trip to NATS in GA it melted. The insides of the ships get very hot and the glue will not hold up. CA glue is better.
    I also ran the pump sensor and took it out. I kept getting vapor lock and could not turn the pump off so it would prime.
     
  8. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, getting the pump to prime is always a challenge. What I've done with APC's is to put the contacts high enough on the housing that the pump doesn't turn on until after the impeller is submerged. I know that allows more water into the boat than some people would like, but it works. At that point, the only thing you have to be careful of is your pump motor rusting up.

    The other way around pump priming issues is to drill a priming hole in the top of the housing. Basically, you take the smallest drill bit you own and put a hole through the top of the pump housing, into the impeller chamber. What that does is allows any air trapped inside to escape through the hole, so you don't get vaporlock. This works very well and although it slightly reduces your maximum pumping rate, the increased reliability has saved my ship on numerous occasions.
     
  9. Powder Monkey

    Powder Monkey Active Member

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    Thanks guys I have both seeing as the BC pump comes with a prim hole plus as you can see I have them up above the bottom of the pump I used high temp hot glue what did you use I might swap it to ca once I’m sure where I want it
     
  10. Powder Monkey

    Powder Monkey Active Member

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  11. Powder Monkey

    Powder Monkey Active Member

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