USS CALIFORINA BUILD

Discussion in 'Atlantic Radio Control Club' started by CURT, Jul 24, 2008.

  1. bb26

    bb26 Well-Known Member

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    More work done today. One side has been sheeted. I have also started the other side. Pics will be posted later.
     
  2. bb26

    bb26 Well-Known Member

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    here is what has been sheeted. once the hull has been completely sheeted, i will fill the gaps with bondo. then i will apply a layer of silkspan.
    [​IMG]
     
  3. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    Looks a lot better than the Sodak sheeting Paul. Good work.
     
  4. bb26

    bb26 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Curt. The Sodak was my "what not to do" ship.
     
  5. bb26

    bb26 Well-Known Member

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    The other side has been sheeted. Bondo tommorow.
     
  6. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    Great Paul. The switches should arrive Friday. 2 business days.
     
  7. bb26

    bb26 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Curt. Once I get the switches this ship will see the water. I expect to have the bondo complete and maybe start painting the hull. Then I can now work on superstructure. I have the switch location issue resolved as it will sit on the battery. I dropped one of the batteries to sit directly on the bootom of the hull. Pump switch location has been settled. I just need to fill with water and test for leaks.
     
  8. bb26

    bb26 Well-Known Member

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    The switches have arrived. So I can make a new throttle switch. The bondo of the cracks have been done. The hull is now drying. next steps are to let the bondo dry, sand and then attach the silk span to the hull. Once dry I can paint.. After that it is all super structure work.
     
  9. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    Great Paul. They arrived early. Good. Now becareful with these babies. Make sure you have clearance and don't force the connectors on the tabs, wiggle gently side to side while pushing.

    I have these in Bismarck and so far no issues.
     
  10. bb26

    bb26 Well-Known Member

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    I wont force them. I will test with the battery in it's spot to make sure it clears the hatch.
     
  11. bb26

    bb26 Well-Known Member

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    I tested to see if there were any leaks with the sheeting. I filled the hull with water and let it sit to see if there were any leaks. Only 1 leak to report. I filled the gap in the seam with some bondo. The next thing is to create the new throttle switch and make a mount on top of abattery.
     
  12. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    Good work Paul.
     
  13. rarena

    rarena Well-Known Member

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    Resheeting mine tonight too. I need to get ready for Nats and a year and a half sheeting wasn't gonna make it. I forgot what a time consumer it is. It might be because I had to repair my stringer. It took a whooping!
     
  14. bb26

    bb26 Well-Known Member

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    I expect to have the throttle switch mounted by monday as well as the hull painted. Once that is done I will attach the radio is working,and go to the grove for it's maiden run. I just want to see how it is working
     
  15. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    Just keep the model close by and run shallow till your confident there's no throttle issues. Have back up or backup buddy with ship on hand in case the ship decides to run away from you.

    I thought I was done with Bismarck but just some small issues to correct. The motor is working it's way loose from the mount so I need to secure it to the mount and switch over mounting screws to better screws, and create a spacers to insert between the mount wall and the front of the motor so that air can get in to the motor. Other than that I did a another test run this past Saturday. Ran bis for 90+ minutes non stop at range and no issues. Ship still moved smartly. Pump is working great picking up little water and dumping it no problem. Those mods to the water channeling in the stern helped and securing the pump better is working.
    I only used up a volt or so on the slas. So I am confident those batteries will last at least 2 sorties.

    Curt.
     
  16. rarena

    rarena Well-Known Member

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    I'm having teething pains also. I went through the whole motor thing last battle. I got string from a recovery float tangled up and it became a motor mount dog bone and collar issue. I ended up with hose clamps for motor mounting and 5 replacement dogbones. That got all fixed so it was pump failure time. Now I am going to autoswitch with manual tied in as well, hopefully that should cure that. I finished re sheeting and have the bottom back in red. Now it is time for the rest and reassembly of everything. I still have time and will make it. Thanks goodness!

    Paul, have the autoswitch tied in with manual back up, I don't trust the circuit... it works great on the bench. If it fails, I will get you a better one when I come up with one... You could use a spare channel (If you have one) with a servo and a micro switch. You can power your light off it for night battle if you want also.
     
  17. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    Sound good Iceman. The only float recovery I have is from the GO PRO camera steel mount. I got the metal machine screws size 8-32x1 1/4
    and they fit nicely. Nuts and washers with it also. I forgot to get a large pipe clamp to secure the motor can in the mount. Oh well get that later. I can fix this within minutes so no big deal there. Draining all my batteries and recharging them currently. Less than 17 days before I leave the provice .

    Looking forward to seeing you there Iceman.
     
  18. bb26

    bb26 Well-Known Member

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    Some further update to the build. The hull has been painted. i will post pictures tomorrow. The switch gets built tomorrow and tested.
     
  19. bb26

    bb26 Well-Known Member

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    Here is a shot of the painted hull.
    [​IMG]
     
  20. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    Looking great there Paul!