Awesome progress! Glad you've got it started. Should be plenty of time to fit it all out over winter!
I did mine outside when there was a high wind (I hate dust) I guess you could use a fan outside instead of wind.
Mark has offered to use his workshop for cutting my hull, so I will likely end up doing it there. Possibly have the hull cut by next week.
Mark is a Genius! pay attention when he shares info with you.... Yes, im Jealous, he would probably be going "Dang man, would you let me have some peace and Quiet!" If I were there! (Kas and Will prolly tolerate me better)So enjoy, and have fun building, thats where most time is spent, Building and Tweeking.
Quick update. Been busy the last few months, so progress has been very slow. All the windows on the California have been cut, and I have added some rib bracing using 1/4 x 1/4 balsa wood. I ran out of balsa, so going to pick up more to finish the rib bracing. Hole has also been drilled for the rudder post, will install rudder shortly. I'll post pictures once I'm ready to install the rudder. Some questions: What do you guys use for a rudder chain? Ebay has some metal ones but they're all 5 feet or more. I have the rudder gears Strike provided, one for servo at 24 teeth and the other for the rudders with 12 teeth. Both 1/4" thick It seems this battery has been used in the past for battleships: http://www.batteryspace.com/lifepo4...h-10c-rate-64-wh-6-0---un38-3-passed-dgr.aspx Is this still the recommended battery? I presume I will have to buy two, which will give me 6.4 volts.
Can you post a pic of your gears? I suspect theyre meant to drive eachother directly, not via a chain
I'm thinking that given the narrow end of the stern, it's going to be a tight squeeze fitting the servo and two gears in without a chain system. Dryfitting everything shows it's possible, just cramped, and means part of the servo will be resting on the hull bottom. The California has it's rudder right at the very tip of the stern. But I'll post a picture of the gears as soon as I get home.
I use gears and a low profile servo on my Invincible. ( it has a small stern) Big gear on servo Rudder swings can by adjusted by the radio.
Here's a picture of the gears and servo. I looked at some other builds with chains, and mine appear thicker, so they indeed are likely meant to contact each other directly. And here's the gears overlaying where they'll be if they're directly driving each other (There's enough space for them under the subdeck). That's a good idea Will. The kit does come with a push rod. I'm going to try just the two gear system first. So those batteries above will work for this ship? Solenoids are 6v.
Batteries- those are the Batts I use, I have 16 of them A lot of people use them..... the rudder system if u need one I might have a Mark Jenks Original Chain drive geared rudder system you can have to run the narrow stern with. I can bring it to the build at Kas's on the 24th if you like, I am sure I have several of them. ^^^^^^^^This , All credit goes to Mark Jenks,(RCEngr) He designed it, Printed it and I am the lucky recipient, He is the Brilliance!(you can tell him I said that, He already knows I love the stuff he designs) Craig
remember you want your rudder as close to the props as possible. You can move your rudder fore or aft as you need.
Craig- I won't make it to the build, and it does not look like my gears will fit that chain. I think I'll be going chainless. Thank you though! Will- The shape of the hull has a nacelle built in that pretty much dictates where the rudder has to go. I can't move it any further forward without cutting into the hull. However the propellers will still be very close to the rudders. The Tennessee class has props very close to the end of the stern. Thanks for your help everyone. This simplifies things for me. I did some more dryfitting, the servo I have will be able to fit, albeit a little tight. Next steps will be making a servo mount and epoxying the rudder post.
I have the plans from StrikeModels. Not sure who the creators of the plans are but I've been using them to position props and rudder.
Here is how my props and rudder ended up, I had to cut into the hull to fit the props based on installing the prop shafts with undersized props at first. This is a smaller rudder than what is allowed now. In your picture the rudder post is too far aft, so you will end up with more room for the servo if it is moved forward. The hull shape kind of sucks for the props and rudder, some boats the stern creates a 'roof' that can help contain the thrust https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/uss-california-ircwcc.444786/page-5#post-511427
Looks like you removed the area I highlighted in red. The current location I was planning for my rudder is in blue, and this is where the rudder is positioned on the plans. Looks like I have some reshaping to do.
I think Kevin has a good idea, You do not need all the teeth on the big gear, if you still have a tight fit you can grind the unused teeth off. Rudder placement is KEY. I would show Mark before I epoxied it in.
Here is my current setup with the correct rudder size. You should figure out the prop placement first, then decide on rudder placement. Props should be as close to touching as you can get them, they also shouldn’t ‘stick out’ beyond the width of the hull when viewed from above, if they do then they can be damaged by side to side rubbing during battles. The rudder also shouldn’t extend beyond the end of the stern
