Those props are a lot closer to the rudder than I was planning. That's a great point about props not sticking out. Didn't consider that. I'll run it by Mark and try to shift things forward. Starting with props first.
Think of the thrust coming off the props as a cone, the further away you get from the props the more it spreads out. Keeping the rudder as close to the props as possible limits the amount of thrust that 'misses' the rudder. I build mine up to the point where they are touching, then trim away the points of contact
Oh yeah I completely agree with you about props being as close to the rudder as possible. I just didn't initially think to have them THAT close. But I will definitely follow your advice.
With one rudder, make sure rudder swing does not hit the props when the boat is in reverse. (props stick out a little further)
Hey, just ran through a similar problem, have you attached your servo to the rudder yet? I checked my travel before chopping in and found out that my servo travel taps out just before the rudder hits the props, so I've about a 16th of an inch clearance on both sides
okey. I did the rudder first and left the shafts/props free-floating so I could adjust them to the right spot to maximize clearance. Can't move the rudder if you have the props fixed and there is no clearance, but you can adjust the drive train before epoxying it in. I've only had to do it once since my cruiser had ample clearance and didn't need any tuning and my Texas' drivetrain is right up in my rudder's grill, but it worked out rather well. definitely post pics with whatever technique you use though, I'd like to see how it works out.