the widest point is 1/8 wider on my rib drawings my drawings have 2 ribs they bth have e as the name one is the correct size thats the one in the forward half the other is 1/8 too wide i can just use 2 of the front ribs right? they would be the two middle ribs in the plans i realize i can be out by 1/8 but i really dont want to build her that way i got the plans from strike i am measuring from copy's im about to take my plans out and recheck the deck area is fine there is a bulge in the sides at the lowest point on the E frames one E frame bulges more than the other there by 1/8 inch
ok i have just been looking at the drawings for the frames as i went to measure the plans i realize there is just one E frame on the keel but it shows on the front and rear frames drawings ill use the front one and it will be good very strange tho that it has drawings for 2 shaped differently i have a theory its for the carrier version i have the plans for that too and it only shows one E frame but one of the frames for it bulges like the rear E frame thats too wide in the cleveland drawings do
Don't forget that the balsa sheeting adds to the thickness also, so it's better to be a tad under the allowed width. You could just cut out as is then sand it down once assembled to get to correct beam.
ok i havent cut the back part of the keel yet i have been thinking of the keel skeg i dont have it on the cutout i made to make the rear of the keel but now im wondering if it should all be the same piece of wood what do you think?
also at the tip of the bow do you guys make that sharp or rounded seems sharp gets blown off even in hard area?
Do you mean bow to stern one piece keel? Not really, typically you would have a piece for the bow until it widens up and the stern till it widens up, then use two strips of 1/4 square dowel (or 1/4" x 1/2") down the middle to make a water channel
yes i know thats typical i was going to make a full length keel to make it easier to keep straight then cut out the middle of it before glueing but there is a skeg that is between the propellers its visible in the frame drawings i was going to leave in that part of the keel for strength originally i planned to add that skeg after the ribs were glued so the hull would sit better during construction but now im considering making it from the same board as the rear of the keel to make it stronger
What you are going to make is basically one of the laser cut wood kits, start reading those threads. Don't do anything with the skegs at this point. Do you have your building board ready?
its my first time assembling a boat hull and im trying to think ahead no i have seen pictures only of building boards is there a how to thread for that? thx for the info on skegs unfortunately the clevelands arent very flat on top or bottom it would be easier if they were
Follow that build, even shows you how to make the ribs. How many are you allowed on your ship (and what thickness) Assembling means putting part A to part B. You are actually SCRATCH BUILDING (very cool) and have to make the parts that need to be assembled. A building board is nothing more than two straight boards glued/screwed together.
ok i have read that thread before very nice job and essentially thats how im building im glad i took another look at it he made the skeg part of the rear keel that answers my original question
i have the ribs all cut out i just need to finish sanding and i was rechecking to make sure i hadnt made a non symetrical rib when i realized my beam width might not be correct im good now tho
ok prop shafts im about to drill the holes in my frames for the prop shafts and i want to know do the un powered shafts have to extend into the inside of the hull or can i terminate that end inside the frames somewhere so they arent in the way inside the hull
Your choice really. I usually end them just inside the hull with a bend and some fibreglass cloth so they are more secure and take a little bit more damage. I have seen people glue them to the outside as well.
so you use a solid shaft? i was wondering i have seen pictures of builds where they were the same as the prop shafts that are powered but none that i recall were solid or at least that i could tell give me an opinion on this what if i thread the end and screw them into a solid wood block in the hull i would epoxy them at the same time for water tight fit, i was going with hard wood instead of balsa infill where the motors sit anyway the bent rods a good idea i suppose your worry is the shaft gets pulled out of the boat?
would it be against the rules to bend the inner edge of a drag disc so it angled water towards the inner powered props and across the rudder?
