USS Indiana BB-1

Discussion in 'Ship Comparison' started by JKN, Dec 20, 2012.

  1. JKN

    JKN Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2010
    Posts:
    238
    I was gong over some pictures and realized that there was basicly 3 different phases of deck layout(SS).
    The first being as built with the side casements for 2 6in guns and a 6pdr per side, then in 1908 to 1909 she had the casements removed on the sides and a flat near structure was built and then in 1910 she had a refit giving here a cage mast and 12 3in guns added, and my question is does the ship have to be built as launched or can the builder make it as what ever refit it the modeler chooses and seeing as this does not change the battle points and is only a cosmetic difference does it matter?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Here are some pictures to help explain, the last pic is after the 1910 refit so for the 1908 to 1909 just imagin the cagemast is not there.
     
  2. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2007
    Posts:
    3,085
    Location:
    Natchez, MS
    The navy strove to reduce topside clutter in the first decade of the 20th century. That is why the simpler layout of the latter picture. The early USN dreadnoughts were down right spartan.
     
  3. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2006
    Posts:
    3,524
    Depends on the format. I know WWCC allows you to build it to whichever version you desire, as long as you match ship stats to chosen appearance. For example, some ships changed out major armament, like Japanese cruisers. You can't build the light cruiser Kitikami post-torpedo-rebuild and set its speed based on the faster pre-conversion sea trials speed. Probably more significant for some ships than other ships, since some vessels received huge bulges or major armament overhauls partway through their careers that dramatically changed their characteristics.
     
  4. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2007
    Posts:
    8,298
    Location:
    Statesboro, GA
    Personally, I lean towards the Virginia class with the superposed turrets. But that's me.
     
  5. JKN

    JKN Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2010
    Posts:
    238
    And another part that concerns me is all the electronics, radio stuff,and pneumatics, i am more or less clue less on what i need. One of my thoughts on a motor is a brush-less drive from hobbyking.com with the 1 motor twin shaft gear boxes from battlers and 10 pitch props from Strike models
    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6584__C10_Micro_brushless_outrunner_2900kv.html
     
  6. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2007
    Posts:
    8,298
    Location:
    Statesboro, GA
    For the drive motor, aim for something under 2000kV, and with either a 3.17mm(1/8") or 5mm shaft, because those are easy to get gears for (that will mesh with the gearbox). Although, if you use 10 degree props from Strike, the higher RPM might work.
     
  7. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2007
    Posts:
    8,298
    Location:
    Statesboro, GA
    Josh, I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild of my beloved Lil Scharnie, and I will be posting detailed info on what I'm doing with my electronics and gas systems. So watch that thread. It's all brushless, and I'm doing solenoid-operated valves. An Indiana will have a little less room than Scharnie, so you'll have to be very careful. Are you building for fast gun or big gun?
     
  8. JKN

    JKN Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2010
    Posts:
    238
    Fast gun(Treaty to be specific)

    Was not expecting a SMS Scharnhorst to weight another pound or two than the Indiana but the stats prove it.
    I will watch your build with great insight and detailed.
     
  9. froggyfrenchman

    froggyfrenchman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2007
    Posts:
    3,358
    Location:
    Dayton, Ohio
    Very interesting little ship. It reminds me of Dustin's little Swedish ship.
    Mikey
     
  10. JKN

    JKN Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2010
    Posts:
    238
    So far I have a rough layout idea and was wanting some suggestions and opinions on the layout.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. JKN

    JKN Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2010
    Posts:
    238
    Well this isn't working, i cant make it small enough to read the parts but small enough to not have a scroll bar...
     
  12. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2007
    Posts:
    4,405
    Location:
    Federal Way, WA
    Slice it into sections?
     
  13. JKN

    JKN Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2010
    Posts:
    238
    You mean like that?
     
  14. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2007
    Posts:
    8,298
    Location:
    Statesboro, GA
    Nice change!

    But.. yer gonna need a regulator on that there CO2 bottle, uh-huh.
     
  15. JKN

    JKN Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2010
    Posts:
    238
    So is my idea of having the barrettes and deck-ends sealed to the hull and only having the aft turret and superstructure removable so that the hull is more water tight, also means only one combat opening but means all parts must be accessible from the center?
     
  16. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2007
    Posts:
    8,298
    Location:
    Statesboro, GA
    I would say, no more than 5 screws to open any compartment, and make the center compartment easy to open, and you must be able to at a minimum get to the reloading ports, and be able to pull the battery/ies and CO2 bottle from there. No parts where you cannot remove the deck, given some time.
     
  17. JKN

    JKN Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2010
    Posts:
    238
    On the ribs should i go 11 ribs of 1/8 and a stern of 1 inch solid and 2in solid bow or 1/2 stern 12 1/4 ribs and 7/8 bow?
     
  18. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2007
    Posts:
    8,298
    Location:
    Statesboro, GA
    Towards the bow and stern, you'll need 1/4" ribs to help make the turn with the balsa. I a case like yours, I'd go with your second proposed scheme, maybe split a couple of 1/4" ribs amidships (where the hull isn't curving so much) into four 1/8" ribs.
     
  19. JKN

    JKN Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2010
    Posts:
    238
    so if i do it that way where would be the best area to reduce the solid sections bow or stern? im thinking stern
     
  20. Iunnrais

    Iunnrais Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2009
    Posts:
    239
    Location:
    Texas
    I've used 3/16" thick plywood on hulls before to increase the rib count while maintaining a rib that is thick enough to sheet easily. It's amazing how fast that uniform 1/16" thinner wood adds up to give enough ribs on smaller hulls.