I was gong over some pictures and realized that there was basicly 3 different phases of deck layout(SS). The first being as built with the side casements for 2 6in guns and a 6pdr per side, then in 1908 to 1909 she had the casements removed on the sides and a flat near structure was built and then in 1910 she had a refit giving here a cage mast and 12 3in guns added, and my question is does the ship have to be built as launched or can the builder make it as what ever refit it the modeler chooses and seeing as this does not change the battle points and is only a cosmetic difference does it matter? Here are some pictures to help explain, the last pic is after the 1910 refit so for the 1908 to 1909 just imagin the cagemast is not there.
The navy strove to reduce topside clutter in the first decade of the 20th century. That is why the simpler layout of the latter picture. The early USN dreadnoughts were down right spartan.
Depends on the format. I know WWCC allows you to build it to whichever version you desire, as long as you match ship stats to chosen appearance. For example, some ships changed out major armament, like Japanese cruisers. You can't build the light cruiser Kitikami post-torpedo-rebuild and set its speed based on the faster pre-conversion sea trials speed. Probably more significant for some ships than other ships, since some vessels received huge bulges or major armament overhauls partway through their careers that dramatically changed their characteristics.
And another part that concerns me is all the electronics, radio stuff,and pneumatics, i am more or less clue less on what i need. One of my thoughts on a motor is a brush-less drive from hobbyking.com with the 1 motor twin shaft gear boxes from battlers and 10 pitch props from Strike models http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6584__C10_Micro_brushless_outrunner_2900kv.html
For the drive motor, aim for something under 2000kV, and with either a 3.17mm(1/8") or 5mm shaft, because those are easy to get gears for (that will mesh with the gearbox). Although, if you use 10 degree props from Strike, the higher RPM might work.
Josh, I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild of my beloved Lil Scharnie, and I will be posting detailed info on what I'm doing with my electronics and gas systems. So watch that thread. It's all brushless, and I'm doing solenoid-operated valves. An Indiana will have a little less room than Scharnie, so you'll have to be very careful. Are you building for fast gun or big gun?
Fast gun(Treaty to be specific) Was not expecting a SMS Scharnhorst to weight another pound or two than the Indiana but the stats prove it. I will watch your build with great insight and detailed.
Well this isn't working, i cant make it small enough to read the parts but small enough to not have a scroll bar...
So is my idea of having the barrettes and deck-ends sealed to the hull and only having the aft turret and superstructure removable so that the hull is more water tight, also means only one combat opening but means all parts must be accessible from the center?
I would say, no more than 5 screws to open any compartment, and make the center compartment easy to open, and you must be able to at a minimum get to the reloading ports, and be able to pull the battery/ies and CO2 bottle from there. No parts where you cannot remove the deck, given some time.
On the ribs should i go 11 ribs of 1/8 and a stern of 1 inch solid and 2in solid bow or 1/2 stern 12 1/4 ribs and 7/8 bow?
Towards the bow and stern, you'll need 1/4" ribs to help make the turn with the balsa. I a case like yours, I'd go with your second proposed scheme, maybe split a couple of 1/4" ribs amidships (where the hull isn't curving so much) into four 1/8" ribs.
so if i do it that way where would be the best area to reduce the solid sections bow or stern? im thinking stern
I've used 3/16" thick plywood on hulls before to increase the rib count while maintaining a rib that is thick enough to sheet easily. It's amazing how fast that uniform 1/16" thinner wood adds up to give enough ribs on smaller hulls.