We (Strike Models) do have new batteries, including an armored flat cell that's cool and different, and we just sold one to someone with an Iowa. That said, like previously mentioned..you're not exactly having to worry about keeping your weight on the light side with that beast. People do use the lead batteries because it's good as ballast, too.
Is there a considerable performance difference between the armored flat cell and the lead ones I have?
For a ship the size of Iowa, go with lead-acid batteries. You'll need the ballast and it's an order of magnitude cheaper. Not to slam the armored batteries, I think they're very cool, but if you're not weight-critical, you need to save your money to buy some of Strike's nice guns for your boat
I ran 3 18ah 6v SLA batts in my Iowa and still had to add 5lbs of lead to get her to weight. Would have loved to have been able to fit 2 35ah 6v blocks in her, but alas, I din't quite have the space for that.
Iunnrais, remember that MK is building a Big Gun Iowa. The power requirements are different, as are a number of other component requirements. The simple answer to MK's question is that, as long as those batteries are still good, they will provide sufficient power for a whole day's worth of battling. There certainly isn't any harm in taking up leftover displacement with batteries, after everything else has been taken care of, but we don't want MK buying more batteries than he really needs. Keep in mind also that rampant battery-ballasting may wreck your ship's weight distribution. I once saw a SoDak that was stuffed to the brim with SLA batteries. These filled every spare space from the bow on back, and the ship handled like a pig. Compared to another SoDak that used lead instead of batteries for ballast to get a better weight distribution, the difference was significant.
Alright so quick update on the build. We have bought and applied West Systems 105/207 epoxy to the areas that were damaged previously. It is still currently curing, but I have a few questions as we have never used epoxy before. When i apply epoxy to secure things to the hull or install prop/rudder, do I want to thicken it? When we applied it last night to the scratch on the underside and the bow, it was syrup consistency. It worked fine for the underside, but it did not fill the gaps and we could not mold it to the shape of the bow. If I should thicken it, what consistency should I be looking for. The West Systems guide had 4 consistencies: Syrup, Catsup, Mayonnaise, and Peanut butter. Below are pictures of both epoxy jobs. I apologize for the blurryness, the camera is having trouble focusing, but essentially, you can see the epoxy applied did not mold into the grooves on the bow, but thinly coat, similar to a coat of paint. Underside Epoxy I have attached both the before epoxy and after epoxy pictures. Bow Epoxy Once again, this is kinda blurry, but you can see what I mean by a thin coat rather then filling the grooves. My last question is what type of sand paper should we be using to sand the epoxy down to shape, and should it be wet or dry? P.S. Why does nobody seel 3/8" tape when I live...
I like the peanut butter consistancy. When I put my shafts in, I ca them into place, tape the outside of the boat and mix the epoxy with chopped fiberglass. Apply to inside. I have used paper towels in the past with good results attaching things like gun mounts and skegs to boats but definitely the fiberglass. I sometimes use automotive fiberglass to build things and then seal it with epoxy, that works too.
OK so long story short, my current tape job has the first window near the bow starting at 1 3/8 inch from where the waterline starts. Given the fact that all of the other tape jobs are fine, I have elected to keep the current tape-up and add that extra 5/8inch penetrability to my boat. As Carl mentioned earlier, the more penetrable it is, the less people will question your boat. All I have left to do is add 1 more window to the stern and it will be ready to cut. Should have the hull drilled and potentially cut by the end of tomorrow. Will post pictures as soon as I can. One last thing, what should the appromixate weight of the ship be after everything is completed and ready to battle? Could I weigh it down to that weight and test my waterline prior to cutting? Thanks!
Unlike Fast Gun, Big Gun doesn't have a weight limit. Instead, Big Gun requires that your ship float at scale standard waterline, and have the correct amount of target area sticking out above the water. You can get a general idea by putting your un-cut fiberglass hull in the bathtub (if it'll fit) and ballasting it down to the marked waterline. Just keep in mind that the balsa skin will increase your displacement (and the weight necessary to hit waterline) once you add that, as will skegs, props, rudders, and anything else you add later below the waterline. Or you can trust to the "thousand-ton rule of thumb", which states: for every 1000 tons scale displacement, your model battleship will weigh approximately 1 pound. That won't be precise, of course, but it'll give you a ballpark figure for estimating your model's final weight. For your Iowa, about 40 to 50 pounds is a good estimate.
Oh, that wasn't so much for the amount of power I needed, it was more for the weight. I originally ran her on a single 36ah block with no issues in fast gun. I just prefer to add ballast that powers the ship over ballast that just sits there
We actually sell 3/8" and 1/4" tape in 60 yard long rolls for $4 and $3, respectively. It's not real prominent on the site right now, but it's at http://www.strikemodels.com/products/ships/ We had to search real hard to find it as well, and bought a few cases when we did find it.
When instealling the subdeck, should I be putting 3/8" wood bahind the fiberglass ribs to give them more protection? Also, I am assuming that since the top edge of the hull is 3/8", the subdeck behind it will also be 3/8" piece of wood? Just little mixed in the brain on how the subdeck works. Thanks for the update Keri, I sent Stephen an email with my information for the 3/8". i almost went and bought 25 dollar striping tape to use for 3/8".
Alright, over the past couple of days, we managed to drill the window holes and cut out the windows. Drilled Holes Cut Windows Is it alright if the windows corners are rounded? We sanded them down using the dremmel sand attachments. Although almost all the cutting is completed, we had 1 quick question regarding the stern. We originally measured 2 inches from the tip of the stern (not following the curve of the hull) and placed tape at the 2 inch margin. However, by doing this, the window is not 3 inches wide. So my question is, should the rib previous to the last window at the stern be less then 3/8"? Or am I allowed a shorter window with 3/8" rib around the stern? Port Stern Window Starboard Stern Window
Now that the hull windows are completetly cut, does anyone have suggestions for what I should do next? I have not done the rudders/props, so I was thinking that, but what about subdeck/deck. Does anyone have a preference of order or is there a benefit to do either first? Also, I am a little concerned I will not get the stuffing tubes/props/prudders in the correct places. Does anyone have any suggestions on a sure-fire way to get it right each time? Also, once the 4 stuffing tube holes are drilled into the bottom of the hull, how does the whole proxy of expoying them into place work? Additionally, looking at the ship plans I have, the 2 middle props seem to come out of "channels". Will I need to freemold these with thickened epoxy? Any other Iowa builders have any comments on this? Thanks for all yor help guys!
I would get the sub-deck installed. After that the inner shafts and skegs. I always started with the subdeck. I complete the boat and set everything in and then float test it. Move the weight around so that it floats right and mark the waterline. Mark wher everything is setting and secure the components in place. Batteries and such. I build a test basin and fill it with water and Kool-aid. Set the boat in. After a couple of minutes I drain the basin. The Kool-aid shows you the waterline. Pull everything out of the boat abd start cutting windows. Very nice job on you build. Keep up the good work.
I always leave the subdeck for latter on. I like to get the gun locations marked in the hull so you don't put anything under them. The guns can't be moved. Then I like to get the motors and shafts installed. Then pump, then water channeling. The all the wiring and CO2 system. After all that is done I put in the subdeck. This way you can put the cross braces in places where they will not be in the way. Like right over the motor gear boxes. Or right where a barbet is installed. The little round parts of the hull you left in the corner windows are fine. Not all ships are going to divide out to exact 3" windows. I don't know Big Gun rules but it seams fine to leave the stern like you have it. But best to check with your rule set. You don't have to put wood behind all of the ribs. It is a good idea as the ribs will last longer. That "old style" Swampy hull is not as thick as the new ones. You should put them on every other one so you can hang the interior armor from them. Since you hull has been sitting around for a while make sure and check the width of it against your plans. The fiberglass will widen. My Kongo from back in 2004 is about 2" too wide in some places.
I'm with Bob, except that on the old Swampy hulls I put wood behind every rib. After I get the motors and shafts in, I like to do the rudders, but Bob has more experience in boat-building than I do
Thanks for the input guys. I have a small problem, I do not have my guns yet. I am waiting on Strike Models to start producing their big gun cannons. So I was thinking about doing the props/rudders, however, as mentioned, I don't want the placing of the motor/motor mounts to interfere with cannon placement. Would you guys suggest waiting for cannons before moving forward with props/rudders? Also, I will place wood behind each rib to add strength given the comments. What type of wood should I be using, and can I use West Systems 105/207 clear epoxy to secure them to the ribs? Also, should any pieces of wood I put in the ship be epoxied on all sides to waterproof? Thanks
What I do when laying out the ship (no guns in hand yet usually) is make a circle on the (inside) bottom of the boat under each main turret that I'm going to use, and try not to put anything in the circle, since that's where the guns will stick down. Do that and then do your shafts and motors. Do the rudders after you have the shafts in (preferably props on).
You've got 3/8" ribs so either a layer of 1/4" and 1/8" plywood or 3/8" plywood. You can CA the plywood together. You should use the marine grade epoxy to glue the wood to the hull. It's the stuff that cures under water. Comes in a little two part tube. The West Systems is for sealing the wood after it's glued in place.
