Here are some new pics. Are the gearboxes in the correct position on the shaft to be epoxied. Should I remove the gearboxes and add epoxy and place them back?
Looks good to me Ron. If its not a hassle to get the gearboxes in and outI would probably take them off and put some epoxy under them but I doubt youll have a problem either way. Id probably put the motor mount on them too before I epoxied them in place, Or just be careful and not get any epoxy on side where it screws on.
Thanks Snipe Doing the outer patch up on the cut outs with bondo.Easier to sand I think. I ordered 2 6v 12A batteries and 2 8 inch stuffing tubes and 2 V-shaped mounting units. I'll put motor mounts on first. Do the stuffing tubes and shafts look ok where the gearbox are on the floor of the hull to be epoxied. Above pic.
They look good from here, as long as they align up straight with the shafts is what matters. And since you angled the gearboxes out some, for sure the stern guns will sit down between the gearboxes, so no clearance issues there. The prop alignment looks perfect from what we can see, the rudder looks like its just right also. Only thing I would chance is reverse the props, they rotate out right now when driving forward, you want them to rotate in. For sure put the motor mount on the GB, those long screw will be a real pain trying to put in when its attached to the hull. They never come off once they are on anyways.
10-4 djranier Will put mounts on and epoxy boxes in. Ordered batteries and outer shafts today. Is this the amount the center shaft and outer shaft should stick stick through the gearbox front? Going to the hobby shop tomorrow I know I will need a receiver for the dx7 6100 or 6000 or 7 channel receiver and some servos . Any suggestions on receiver I should get or the servo and how many? Maybe I should buy online.
I just noticed one other thing, the end of the stuffing tube should only extend like 1/16 inch into the gearbox, the way you show them may be pushed on too far, the gears may not go on the motor and drive shaft, and align inside the gearbox. Before you epoxy them in check for gear train fit.
It seems that the length of the inner shaft, too long, is keeping the stuffing tube from coming through to the inside of the gearbox. I just noticed there is a hole in the mounting plate that the inner shaft can go in and allow the stuffing shaft to go in more. I also noticed that the gear on the motor seems like it needs to be pressed on. Is that what has to be done to get it on the motor? Maybe a vise from both ends?
Loosen the setscrew on the side of the gear, it will slide right on. You will need to flatten one side of the motor shaft, easiest way is to use a Dremel and grind a flat spot. When you are sliding the gear on, make sure that the setscrew is over the flat spot, then tighten it on. That way, the gear doesn't spin on the shaft.
If the motor shaft has the ridges on just grind them off, then make a flat spot, but only grind enough so that the pinion goes on to the shaft centered.
The motors do have the ridges so I'll grind a little off and make a flat spot and slide the gear on. I pushed the inner 1/8 inch shaft through the motor mount side of the mount will probally support it better and allow the stuffing tube to sit in better.
Mount the motor in a vice and add a bit of power to spin the motor. Then grab a file and let the motor spinning file the ridges away by pressing the file lightly to the motor shaft. If you do it any other way you may actually cause the pinion to not mount centered and it will then burn up the motor. Ask Dave Rainer he saw my old motors that actually went bad due to this and I did not even use them but for less than 5 mins not in the water.
Going to the hobby shop. I know I will need a receiver for the dx7 6100 or 6000 or 7 channel receiver and some servos . Any suggestions on receiver I should get or the servo and how many? Maybe I should buy online.
Get something with decent torque for the rudder servo, having it be low profile too doesnt hurt if space is tight back there(the one i mentioned earlier has worked well for me). The other servos can just be standard run of the mill servos. Youll need min 4 servos (which includes the rudder servo) but I might go with 5 so you dont have to have one of your guns on the same channel as your pump.
Hey Snipe my man I ordered after talking with Rick. I ordered a Hi Tech 77b servo for the rudder which is low profile and high torque same as Rick uses along with the 2 gears needed for the rudder set up. I ordered 4- 325hb servos standard and a ar6100 receiver for the DX7 radio. Hope this stuff will be want I need.
Think I'm gonna start work on the top deck fit. To cut turret holes it can't be the size of the hole shown on the plan as it show 2 3/4 holes. The turret rings would fall right through. Any pics to show whats the deal? Maybe the rings just use the centers of these markings. Do the rings sit on the deck with the inside cut out? I have nothing in the directions to explain this, should I? Looks like Snipe has some pics that show the rings with the center cut out. Than maybe you glue the rings to the deck.
How wide are the turrets on Maryland? Most battleships I've seen run with the largest diameter piece of PVC pipe that they can fit under the turret. (More room for getting guns in and out).
Yup, I place the rings on the deck and mark where the ID is and then cut away everything inside of that and glue the ring (barbette ?sp?) in place. Servo and rudder gears are a good idea, here is a pic of the setup i have, the rudder shafts are hidden under the subdeck but you get the idea. The gear on the servo is glued to the servo horn and then i drilled holes and glued in some small brass pins to make the connection stronger and take the shear loading off the plane of the joint.
Thanks Snipe I will mark the deck and cut the Holes. Hi Tugboat I'm using the rings Rick sends in the kit. The plan shows 2 3/4 in circles but it might be showing something else. The rings that came with it are 2 3/8 OD and 2 inch ID. I'm gonna cut the inside diameter and mount them on the deck. The deck ply is warped up so I hope it will mount and not break away if the ship deck lifts after gluing. Hey Tug Are you using a 12v system? Can you just switch to 6v batteries and run it with them also. I'm asking as I ordered 2 6v 12A batteries but I already have 2 12v 7A batteries here That maybe I can also use.
The 12v, 7 amp batteries will cause the ship to go different speeds, with the different voltage. The 12v, 7 amps will not last 2 sorties, since when the voltage goes up, the motors turn faster, and the current draw will also go up. When they die, it will count as a sink against you. I glue the rings down, and then get some very small screws, size 2 I think they are, drill from the bottom of the deck, up into the rings and screw them on. John's Des Monies I'm working on, right now suffered ring deck seperation, another task for him to repair. [] Due to the flexable deck. Plus BB's will blow them off possibly. Water channeling should be somthing your thinking about, it will need to be done soon. Your ship only had 2 guns per turret, so thats why they are a little smaller, the larger size may be for the Tennessee class, which had 3 guns per turret, maybe.
The top deck wood is warped and I have a weight on it but it just doesn't want to stay down. Is there a fix for this or will it fix once screwed down. I would have to seal it screwed flat down , I guess. It lifts about 4 inches. Water channeling, Snipe told me about this, any pics showing what to do and how. What do you use for cutting out the turret holes? hand saw or jig saw?
