One other thing, I have seen the props get stuck on the shafts, were you able to get the 4-40 screws to replace the set screws? Another thing to do, which I do, and showed Don & Rick today, even the old guys can still learn new tricks, [] is drill the propeller hub out with a #30 drill bit, that's the same as .128 inch. Its 3/1000 of a inch larger than the hole in the hub, and you will find that the propellers will never get stuck on the shaft that way. But it does not prevent the crappy set screw from stripping out at the worst time, which is why I say replace it with a 4-40 screw, Don came up with that one.
Hard to tell what Jason used by the pics, but it does give you a very good idea of what it should look like.
Will get them 4-40 and your increasing the shaft hole size by 3/1000 if I under stand correctly.Is there a measurement size for that bit like 5/32???
djranier Where are the early PE pages. Did you put them in the Maryland post to me? I forget! Where do you get the pink wallboard foam? Home depot???
what i did was hot glue down a balsa frame around the open area. then used expanding foam that me resin did not eat. then cut and trimed off the excess foam. then i put 2 coats of resin down and it seems to be working fine very easy and light.
Yes just a sheet of either pink or blue foam from Home Depot. And I used the light glass, and attached with the West System. The PE is my build I'm doing right now under construction, you need to look in my new project the PE. The bit is a number bit, it a #30 bit, may have to get from a real hardware store, or order from McMaster-Carr. Visit this site Part Number: 30585A85A Price $1.12 Just type in the part number and search. The page lists 30585A221, which is for a range of bits, and the order selection, you then select #30 bit, and it will give you the Part # I listed.
Did you send me the PE water channeling pictures? I'm looking for them. I think you did going back to check again. Found one pic you posted but it doesn't show the water channeling.
Ron, I did the concrete sealer method for water channeling and loved it. It's simple, easy, and always gives you a perfectly level surface inside the ship. I highly recommend the method. If Dave cannot find his pictures, I'll take a few of my Lutzow and send them to you. Just let me know.
i don't rember what kinda foam it was i bought it at rona and it is the marine resin i get at canadain tire http://www.bondo-online.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=371 it worked for me
I got the sealer at Home Depot, your ship will require 3 tubes I would think, maybe 4. It depends on how wide your channel is, and how deep you make the water channeling. Here are my pictures. Mike go ahead and post your also, would be nice just to see how someone else did it anyways. You can see I put in some temp walls to keep it out of the pump area between the mounts. I did the rear area first, and tilted the bow up, so that it sloped down a bit. A few days later I did the rest of it, and had the stern just lifted a little bit. I did mount some blocks of basswood in areas that I knew I was going to need to mount items to.
Not sure if it floats, have not tried it. A tube holds 10 oz, I have just under 2 tubes in the PE, and I'm still 2 pounds under max weight.
But it adds weight down low, my PE making high speed turns and such did not even rock back and forth, she was rock solid in the water.
Ok. Finally got some pictures taken of the Lutzow's concrete sealer water channeling. It is nearly the same as Dave's, with the exception I used thicker wood and left the wood in the ship. The wood gives me something to mount stuff too. By the way Dave, you did a better job planning your mounts than I did. Nice job. Ok, details: The water channel is 3/8" deep and 1.5" wide across the inside width. The wood is 3/8" x 1/4" plywood (basswood would work just as well). I wanted the pump to set solidly on top of the water channeling wooden sides. The gearbox area was fenced off with scrap 1/8" lightply. It took two tubes of sealant total.
Great pics Mike! What does the velcro hold? Does the pump sit in the channel or above the channel? If above, the pump only works when the water get to the top of the channel, right? Would the weight of the sealer cause a ship to go down faster? How do you like this method?
2 Tubes, so 20 ounces. But does it look nice. I put all the gear in the hull and marked off where it was going to go, then put the blocks of wood in. It came out just about right, my water channel is a little crooked, but not to bad. That was just me measuring wrong some how.
The velcro wraps around the motor which is mounted to the gearbox. The gearbox itself kinda floats on the hull bottom. I can remove the motor and gearbox assembly from the ship in less than 2 minutes. The two wooden cross pieces is where the pump sits. Yes, the pump does sit on top of the water channel so doesn't start drawing water until it reaches the top of the water channel, but when you are moving forward, the water will move towards the back of the boat and gets picked up by the pump. The weight of the sealer won't cause the ship to go down any faster because the ship will still be below max weight. The sealer's weight on the bottom of the ship should help stability a bit too. I absolutely love this method of putting in a water channel, especially for a fiberglass hull. From now on, I'll use it on every fiberglass hull I build. It would work in wood ships also if you didn't mind covering up the wood.
