USS Maryland build

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by darticus, Jan 3, 2008.

  1. darticus

    darticus Member

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    I will have to get a charger for these 6V 12A batteries. Can a 6/12v car battery charger do the job? If not what do you recommend?
     
  2. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

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    Wal-mart has the Schmacher 6/12 volt, 2/6 amp charger in the auto department, its usually under $20. Just make sure when you turn it on press the button to set it to 6 volts, it defaults to 12 volts upon starting.
     
  3. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Been out of here in an ice storm with no power or phone or DSL for two days. Tried just to stay away from getting hit with a tree. Have to read back mail.
    This charger thing sounds great but I just got back from Wal-mart and now my phone is working and I just got your message. I have a small car battery charger that says is 6 or 12V 6 Amps. Do you think this would be OK to use? The batteries are 6V 12Amps.
    Now maybe I can continue where I left off on my ship!
    Still can't decide what to use for channeling but I did build the rudder servo bracket. Hope this looks like it will be ok.
    Thinking about the 1/8 balsa over foam for the channeling sections. Do you think 1/8 balsa would be strong enough over balsa?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Ragresen

    Ragresen Member

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    That looks more stout than my first Rudder bracket I made. not much room in there at the back is there?
     
  5. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Ragresen
    Do you think it will do the job and I can epoxy everything in? I should be able to remove the servo if needed at a later date but might be tight to get out.
     
  6. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    If you need more room, how about a push-pull going to the large gear? It would make changing a servo a little easier. This is the setup I used in the Aoba. My personal preference is to waterproof the servo and then place it in a waterproof box. A little defense in depth! :). In your setup you would replace the servo mount with a post just like your rudder post.
    Just a thought.

    http://www.rcnavalcombat.com/FileManager/Storage/633375672107557275.png
     
  7. darticus

    darticus Member

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    That's a good set up also. Maybe I'll tack it in and see if I can get it out. This Hitec HS-77BB says its water proof or water tight but I'm not really sure. Rick uses the same servo. Maybe I can just use it as is(water tight).
     
  8. Ragresen

    Ragresen Member

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    Darticus what is the wood you made the mount from? As long is it is a fairly dense wood you will be only just sealing it all up with epoxy, but make sure you do not set the servo back till the epoxy is dried. Lue have a very nice idea that may be worth doing on my Prince Eugen. For now I will be considering how I want to mount things in it,but I have to finish work on my Des Moines and then once I own the Aoba I get to install all the necessary Electronics to make her work again.

    After next weekend I can tell you how bad things are if you do not water channel. The first battle for my Des Moines will be with out Water Channeling.
     
  9. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Don't trust that it is waterproof, do that yourself. NOTHING sucks worse than driving for hours to get to an event only to have a servo fail and ruin your day. I know that and have been there myself. If it's in a waterproof box, and any water gets in, you are safe for the day.
     
  10. Ragresen

    Ragresen Member

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    I waterproof my own servos and still carry a spare knowing things can go wrong.
     
  11. darticus

    darticus Member

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    I only made the mount out of pine. Should it work?
     
  12. Ragresen

    Ragresen Member

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    Pine is a soft wood. Not as soft as Balsa though. To be honestly I am not sure, but I think it will hold up. You need to recall the stress the rudder will feed back to the servo when turning at full speed.
     
  13. darticus

    darticus Member

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    I was thinking the Epoxy coating might help a bit also.
     
  14. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

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    I really don't see how when you epoxy the mount in place, that you will be able to remove the servo?

    With the mount in place, are you able to unscrew the servo, and lift it from the mount, with the gear in place on top of it?

    It looks really good, and the pine will hold up, as long as its sealed really well, but will the servo come out if needed?

    If you like this setup, a little play will not matter much. In front of the servo you can glue another wood peice down (pink), and then make another peice of wood, that is U shaped (green)that fits around the mount, facing the stern that is screwed down. You would just remove the hold down U peice, and the servo and mount would just side forward and come out.

    Somthing like this.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. darticus

    darticus Member

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    I'm not sure of what your saying. Are you saying for me to change the mount to a piece of wood in the front (pink) epoxied down without the servo screwed to it and a u shaped piece in the rear with the servo screwed to it but somehow the u piece is screwed down maybe to a block of wood epoxied down. Am I close?
     
  16. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

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    Nope, just adding to what you have. So that it can be removed. Pink part is glued to hull, the green part is added around your mount. Then you screw the green part to the pink part. Where the dots are.
     
  17. darticus

    darticus Member

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    So this cups it and holds it in place in the back. What about the other end of the mount and servo?
    Maybe your saying just wedge it in the front with the back part holding it. Sorry did I get it?
     
  18. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

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    Yep, it looks like to me that the gear will hit the bottom of the sub deck, and the mount that you add, holds it so that it will not move from side to side, or move forward, so it should work. Just make one up and put it in place, and see how it works.
     
  19. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Thanks for the suggestion will start to put together. I need a battery charger for the 6V 12 AMP batteries. I have a sears 6/12V 6 amp charger but some say I need something else. What are the guys using? Do you keep your batteries on charge all the time? These are the batteries I got and the charger I have.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Battery tender is great. Check out the link. It's not cheap but you can use it on car, boat, motorcycle batteries as well.

    http://batterytender.com/product_info.php?products_id=55