USS Maryland build

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by darticus, Jan 3, 2008.

  1. darticus

    darticus Member

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    I have to run motors as you said. 6V is OK for that? how long in time? Working on top deck and putting in shaft supports on dummy shafts now. Than as you said I better work on fixing the back water channel. Will post some pics later.
     
  2. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    yeah 6V is fine, thats what you are going to run the ship off of right? Run them however long you like. its not really that critical i like to do it cause its normally the first time that something works as part of the ship. So thats fun to have the basics of one system installed and working.
     
  3. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Are the motors wired in series off one battery? One wire to battery than motor to 2nd motor than to battery.
     
  4. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

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    No, you want to wire both motors in parallel to the battery. That gives each motor 6 volts, in series each would only get 3 volts.

    Tug has a wiring diagram, here is the one using microswitches.

    Visit this site

    One using Speed controller.

    Visit this site

    But you will notice in either diagram, the motors are wired parallel, with the Red dot + on one motor, and the other the Red dot will be negative. That way they run reverse to each other, so your props spin in opposite directions.
     
  5. darticus

    darticus Member

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    djranier
    Thanks for the motor wire hookup. And thanks about the direction wiring. Saved both to the desktop.
     
  6. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Been working on the main deck. Cutting boards etc. Working real slow maybe next year this will be done.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. darticus

    darticus Member

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    I noticed in Snipehunters pics he has Caps on his motors. Is it OK to run the motors without caps? Do I need the caps and where would I get them? The two motors come with BC kit as 2 motors, two wires (red and black) and two switches. I have some caps that might work if needed.
     
  8. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    The caps help cut down any electrical noise, you dont need them, but it doesnt hurt to have them. The 2.4ghz radios arent as effected by the noise from the motors as the 75mhz ones are. Then again its so easy to do I dont know a good reason why not. I just go to radio shack and pick up some caps there, I think the ones in there are .47 or .047 uF but i dont know for sure, I dont think its that critical. I put them across the motor leads and from each lead to the can.
     
  9. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Thanks Snipe
    I ran motors on a variable voltage supply but one seemed to get faster and slower for a while and than it seemed OK. One is noisier than the other. Will there be variable speed control in this? I hope so! Have to look for some caps.
     
  10. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    I dunno, do you want a variable speed control? Its more complex and expensive then a simple microswitch control but its doable. A lot of people seem to have trouble keeping them from letting out the magic blue smoke but done right I think that variable speed controls in the form of electronic speed controls are great. Its your call. The kit you have should have what you need for the microswitch setup.
     
  11. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Snipe
    Is normal to run the motors full forward or full back? WOW! Can I hook up an ESC like a plane? Maybe a variable like a RC Car? I guess the motor caps aren't critical I found some .1's and some .047's plus others.
     
  12. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I would say most people use micro switches so they have full forwards, stop, and full reverse. It works pretty well. The problem with ESCs besides being expensive is that there arent that many that work well in our hobby. Most plane ESC's cant handle the amps or they dont have reverse, most cars dont have reverse or there is a delay before they go into reverse, none of that is good. Also there are very few that are waterproof, mtroniks makes some good waterproof ESCs but even some of theirs have the delay when you switch to reverse. Waterproofing a non-waterproof esc is tricky cause if you just put in something (block of epoxy or a watertight box) it doesnt have the ability to cool itself and can overheat and burn up. Some people never have any problems with them. I like them cause i like having the range of speeds even if i dont use them much and it makes speed testing a breeze since i can adjust the max speed standing on shore from the TX.
     
  13. darticus

    darticus Member

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    I thought you showed me something in your boat that is encased in something and I was thinking it was a speed control. What about using an esc that's 25A for forward and full speed back? I have an extra esc I bought for a non brushless motor. Any thoughts?
     
  14. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I have one of the mtroniks ones that I mentioned, they are waterproof and so a lot of people use them. What type of ESC is it? Sounds like it should work.
     
  15. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

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    Some of the ESC's will work with both Brush, and non brushed motors. You need to check on yours to see if it will work with a brushed motor.

    I have been using the dimension engineering speed controllers, so far very happy with them. No delay on the forward or reverse if you don't want it, dip switch controlled. They are fully over current protected, but I did have one go bad. I emailed the fellow, and explained what happened, and he said that it should not of went bad, so he shipped me a new one free of charge, who else would do that.

    The new 25 amp one is what you want, the 10 amp version is right on the edge for running the 550's when you are doing quick forwards and reverses. It current limits itself so that it does not burn up.

    This is of course just info to help you make a decision.

    Visit this site

    For the caps I use a .1 uf across the motor, and .047 to each side of the can. I never have problems with noise.
     
  16. darticus

    darticus Member

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    This speed control is for brushed motors. made by great planes gpmm2025, C-25.Don't know if it can be used with the DX7 radio. It says NiCd/MH and LiPo Compatible.
    C-25 Mini High Frequency ESC

    Best for: Medium sized aircraft with 400-size (and some 500- and 600-size) motors requiring 25A or less.

    Programmable battery types.
    Programmable brake.
    Pushbutton, twin LEDs and audible tones for easy set-up.
    On/Off switch and LEDs on an externally mountable lead.
    Automatic temperature protection reduces max. throttle to 70% when max. temperature is reached.
    Solid-state current overload limiter.
    BEC provides sufficient current for receiver and two standard servos.
    Includes universal radio connector, Deans Ultra male connector for battery, 3.5 mm gold plated female bullet connectors for motor
    SPECIFICATIONS
    Stock Number: GPMM2025
    Input: 6-10 NiCd/NiMH cells; 2-3 Li-Po cells
    Output: 25A continuous max.
    Operating Frequency: 1.3kHz
    BEC: 5V / 1A
    Low Voltage Cutoff: 0.80V per cell for NiCd/NiMH; 2.75V per cell for Li-Po
    Dimensions: 0.98 x 0.43 x 0.71 in (25 x 11 x 18 mm)
    Weight w/Wires: 0.85 oz (24.1 g)
    http://www.electrifly.com/escs/gpmm2005.html
    Maybe its better top just get one you guys like.
     
  17. mike5334

    mike5334 Well-Known Member

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    I don't think that esc has reverse, Ron. You definitely need reverse. :)

    I'm using Chinese made marine escs bought off eBay for around $40 each. There are two types so far; a 50 amp forward/20 amp reverse, and a 100 amp forward/60 amp reverse controller. One of the 50 amp controllers is in my big Richelieu powering twin 550 motors. Today was the first day I ever had trouble with them...the controller kept cutting power to the drive system. That turned out to be a bad connection on the lead going to the receiver. Other than that self inflicted problem, the esc has been flawless. It's even saved itself multiple times this past weekend when one of my gearboxes kept locking up and overloaded the esc into shutdown mode.

    If you browse ebay for marine escs, you should find a few. Watch out for the shipping costs though ... some Chinese ebay sellers jack up the shipping charges to make up for selling the item at a low cost. You should be able to get one for around $40 total with shipping.
     
  18. darticus

    darticus Member

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    djranier
    I went to the page with the esc's http://www.dimensionengineering.com/productpage.htm
    but I don't see the 25A unit you told me to order. Any more info you can give me so I don't order the wrong one. Is it the one for $124.99
    Dual 25A motor driver
    Also on the caps is voltage important? I have some .1 caps at 12v for the motors I also have some .1 at 600V but much biger in size is 12V ok for voltage? Motor are running on 6V.
    Also are circular disks needed in back of the dummy props or are the props fine without?
    Thanks mike for the tips on ESC'S. I'm gonna try to get it in the states first.


    [​IMG]
     
  19. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

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    Its called Sabertooth dual 25A motor driver, its like $125, but works great.

    Visit this site

    You can go with other brands also, I just have used this type and know that it works well.

    The .1 12 volt will work fine, those others are overkill.
     
  20. darticus

    darticus Member

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    THANKS djranier
    The Sabertooth dual 25A Will work fine with a DX7 radio? Let me see about ordering.
    Thanks for the cap info.