USS Maryland build

My PE is a world war 1 ship. No armour belt, [] bummer.

Also she is only like 41.5 inches long, so she only gets 13. As you can see I made the first 4 ribs with a 1 inch spacing, on your model I would do 6 or 7 at a inch, then spread out the rest down the length of the hull. Or you can evenly space them also, its really your preference, but looking at all the pictures of the ships that have taken dam, you will find at least 50% goes into the bow areas, so it really your decision.

Also look on the second page of the construction section, Snipe has a few pictures of his VDT with the windows cut out also. His also has no armour belt, but has casemates.

And when you do start cutting out the windows, have a third hand hold a running vacuum up close, cuts down on all the fiberglass getting all over the place. I also find it easer to drill the corners first, so that way you don't overcut into the ribs.

 

djranier
You did a great job showing me that! Now I should get a pic of the total side and maybe you could show me the whole thing. Now I see what the bulge is and the relation to the armorbelt in the front.See Pic.

 

On some ships you don't even see the armour belt on the hull, but the drawings will usually show you the belt, so you have to put it on the ship yourself, yours is easier since its pronounced on the hull itself.

Now one other trick, if you lay out the ribs, and you find that it does not fall at the end of the armour belt, by the rules you get to extend the belt out to the next rib. So your belt can be a bit larger than it should be. Its all determined by the rib placement, if you catch my drift.

 

I just did the front section, it carries all the way to the stern. I also showed you a gap between the armour belt and the next rib, and showed the added armour belt out to the next rib. Your may end up right at the end, just showing you what to do incase the belt does not reach the rib. [] Every little bit helps. [}]



Also having the belt above the waterline is a good thing, because you will take 85 to 90% of all your damage above the waterline. She is really a hard ship to sink.

 

WOW!!! Great picture work Dave that was really nice.

 

Thanks Bob, there is just no way to try and explain it, so that the other person on the other end could ever understand it.

Paint works really fast, not great looking, but understandable, and thats what matters in the end.[]

Bob if you see anything I missed or gave any wrong info on, jump right in and correct it, you have alot more experence than me.

Well off to work on the PE, still so much to do before Feb 8.

 

Great art work. The bulge goes to the back and ends about 4 inches before the ships end. The hull sides also drop in the back so it looks like the armor belt must end somewhere way before the end of the ship. Feel like doing the rear section art work? Be my guest. Thanks for some great help. Ron

 

I did not do the end, because I don't know what the depth of the bulge is from the top of the deck level.

At the stern drop down measure from the top edge of the hull down to the top of the bulge for me, then I can draw it for you.

Thanks

 

I measured and its 5/16 from top to the bulge so my line is 1/16 below the bulge. I measured 3/8 down from the top edge the same as I did in the front but the front is higher.Thanks again Ron
I'm still afraid to cut.

 

So the stern armour bulge does not help at all, but its low to the water already, so its not a problem. The white areas are the ones you wold cut out. The ribs spacing are just for looks, you will have to determine the actual spacing.



Dont cut till after you meet with Snipe if your not sure, you can get the subdeck and main deck fitted for now, will require some sanding. When it looks right you can coat it with resin, alot of us use the West Marine West Systems resin, since it was formulated for being in the water. But any will do. After that tack it in with super glue, then apply glass under the lip and add more resin.

Or you can get the stuffing tubes installed for the shafts and rudder. Just try to get the rudder as close to the propellers as possible, ship will turn better, also try and get the 2 propellers so they are no more than 1/8 apart, closer if possible. Will help direct the prop wash on to the rudder.

Hope this has helped. I outline all the sections that I will cut out with masking tape, local hobbie store had all the right sizes, 1/8, 1/4/, 3/8.

 

I would not have guest at that. I will try and outline it and get a pic back before any cutting or show Snipe. Thanks for your fantastic help and time. Ron

 

No problem, I had the same kind of help when I started year before last. I'm lucky, I live by Don (one of the 8 original founding members of the hobby, fast gun), hes old, with a bad knee, but not cranky yet, amazing, lol, and Rick (my BC connection), very nice not having to wait for the mail to come.

Also I have my own workshop in the garage, and Rick has a really nice wood working shop out in his backyard in a large shed. I'm going over this Sunday again, and the 3 of us are working on our new boats together, helps to bounce idea's off of each other while you build, plus it motivates Rick to work on his new boat, hes busy alot with BC, so he does not have alot of time lately to work on his own boats.

One more thing, around the stern, I tried to show it, but you cut down to you get to a 45 deg angle on the curve of the hull, so you may not get 1 full inch below the waterline, maybe 1/2 or less, again according to the hull shape, which is allowed by the rules.

 

I'll let someone see before I cut. Thanks Ron

 

djranier
Maybe you would know
The directions for cutting the windows ends with- Now move on to hull sheeting. Are there any direction for this? I don't see any directions. Could directions be in a parts package I didn't open? Sorry for so many questions. Ron

 

Ron

Hull sheeting is not all that difficult to do. Get your Balsa and lay it out on a table with wax paper under it. You do this as you will be apply silk span to each sheet balsa. Make sure to cut your Silkspan to fit each sheet of balsa. I actually cut it larger than necessary as it is much easier to apply larger sheets than exact fits, you can allways use a razor blade to trim it back later. Once the Silkspan is ready you get the Nitrate dope and a brush apply some to the balsa on one side and then lay the silkspan down to that and line it up properly to cover all the balsa. then paint and smooth the silksspan to the balsa with the nitrate dope. Repeat this till you have all your balsa done. Once done you can then let it dry and then you will be ready to get the balsa sized properly for your ship. This is different on each ship. Some you can use whole lengths and others you need to cut to small sections. Once you have all the pieces cut and aresure they will fit comes the real fun part. Now you need to get some weldwood, and a can ofMineral Spirits or Paint thinner ( I can not recall which is recommended Maybe DJRainer can help with this) and go a 50% weldwood and 50% of the other to water down the weldwood. Mix this good and then paint it to you hull where you want the balsa to stick. Place the silkspanned side in, but let the weldwood tacky up good before applying the balsa to it. Hold Balsa as necessary. Once all the balsa is on let dry over night and be prepared to paint the wood.


Anytone who thinks I missed a step as I have only done this once before please chime in. also here is a link to another site that does a step by step of resheeting a hull.

http://www.andysrandomstuff.com/warships/06refit/

 

Thanks for all the info. This should get me going once I get to this step. Wondered if direction were to be in the kit? Thanks Ron

 

Battlers should have included it, but it may have been overlooked. I know Rick will send you a copy in E-mail if nessary.

 

hey darticus, you in for tomorrow's build session? if so tell snipe here: http://www.rcnavalcombat.com/rcnavalcombat/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1015

 

Does anyone know if you start your first window partially on the bulge and the rest forward of it you can extend the armorbelt the width of that new window. Does this go the same for the rear window? Than can you kind of work backwards and put windows in between at sizes to fit to take advantage of the now much bigger armorbelt? Ron