My deck has special BB repellent on it a family secret. The BB's just shy away as it draws your ship closer into my sights. As I said earlier I will allow you 10 free shots but with the special repellent it won't matter!
Here is a wiring diagram without the ESC or Team Deltas. The top half is a phsyical layout of a radio box for a cruiser. Bottom half is the wiring.
Thanks, The top one is hard to understand but the bottom one is cool. I appreaciate all the great help you guys are giving me but remember when or if she get in the water Watch out!
The top part is the layout of the radio box. I should have labled the parts... At the right the big rectangle is a full size RX, much smaller if you have a micro one or a Spectrum RX. The other bigger rectangles are the servos. With the smaller rectangles the switches glued to the side on the servos. I run all the wires out one spot in the box, but only one wire per hole. I've found this layout to make the best use of space in a radio box. Small but stil can be worked in.
As far as the receiver being powered by the mains in my diagram way up there, I put that in because I was asked to by the guy I originally drew it for. Personally, I always run a separate receiver battery. I know some people do just fine with the mains-powered rcvr, but I've had so many problems in the past with my rcvrs, I do everything I can to separate them out from all sources of trouble. I do run my Spektrum rcvr naked, clothed only in a casing of epoxy to keep the icky water away. It also lets me put the rcvr far from the power wires. I was late to the 2.4GHz game in Region 3, and I saw several experienced guys doing the Spektrum-dip, so I don't claim the idea No problems so far, so I am very happy
Thanks Bob for the explanation for the top drawing. Tugboat I think a will probably use a separate battery for the receiver. Will see when we get closer. Gotta get that ESC. Ron
Wanted to know if any of you guys ever opened a mini servo and can a top gear be reversed as I striped 3 teeth on the top gear. Ron
You can buy gears and over servo parts at the hobby store or tower hobbies. I always keep my bad servos and use the good parts as spares.
Is there any special wire coding, as for color, or gage, needed for the wiring. Should get my ESC soon it was shipped. Do I have to cover the bottom of the water pump with screen and do we have any pics to help with pump installation and connection to a servo??
My suggetsion would be 14 gage wire. I would use different colors just to differentiate between +ve and -ve
Yes thats what I use also, get the Silcone insulated, make for a better install. This is about the cheapest I have found in 25 ft lenghts, 65 cents per ft. 14 ga will handle 35 amps per ft at 12 volts, so at 6 it will handle even more. 12 is Ok also but overkill, and harder to install due to its size. I use the 14 ga for the main off the battery, and to the pump, and 16 ga for everything else. Red Visit this site Black Visit this site Anybody find 14 ga any cheaper than 65 cents per ft? Most store are a bit more. I use the Team Delta R/C relay switch, RCE210 for my pump control, $33.50. And the RCE200 to fire the guns, $22.00. You need 1 of those for each set of guns. So if you have a left, and right, gun, and double sterns, you need 3 total. Visit this site Of course you can use servo's to do all of the above, I just have never used them for these functions.
I use 12 gage wire for the pump and drive motors, 12 or 14 seems to be the most widely used, either should work. (if you burn one of them up you have other problems) A lot of guys ( myself included) use silicone coated wire like the deans ultra wire or the stuff banebots makes that has a ton of tiny strands and is super flexible, its expensive but its nice to work with. People have used lamp wire and stuff like that too, as long as it can handle the load it seems to work. Color coding isn't needed but it does help to either color code or use plugs with polarity just so you connect things correctly. The Deans plugs and power pole connectors are both good connectors to use but there are tons of choices. Here are a bunch of pic of pumps and pump screens and such. First a shot of the side of the pump in my new VDT you can see the wood brackets that hold it down and the screen that surrounds it. Same ship, same pump just from the top, with and without the brackets that hold it in place. a pic from the top/side, gives a better view of the screen, it is glued to the hull all the way around the pump. underside of pump and mesh screens old vdt top down with wooden u-bracket and water cooling scotchkoted TD pump relay cruiser pump side cruiser pump bottom with screen cruiser radio box. top servo controls the pump(top switch) and guns (bottom switch, it has solenoids) the bottom servo is the MAG throttle (its not hooked up as the boat has an ESC in it but i left it in for backup) hope that helps, let me know if you want anything explained better or whatnot.
I got my ESC like Dave's but didn't think anyone was out here as I didn't get any notice of replies. Glad to see you guys are still here. Just checked by chance. Snipe nice pump pics and info. I guess I could use a tupperware storage container for servos and seal it with silicone? I see you use caps on the pump just like the motors. Are they the same size or smaller? What plugs are you using to connect the motors and pump etc. Do you know if they are available where Dave orders the wire? djranier Team Delta R/C relay switch-Do I still need these if I bought servos for controlling things? If so I would need 1 for the pump and do you know how many gun units I would need? I thought I might need 4 or 5. Its called a 4.5 unit ship? Any one know what the Maryland has. I guess I should order the wire also. I'll have to order more stuff. I'll never get done. I have to sell the ranch.
Go to portpolarbear.com Look at the reports page. There are several articles tiled Inside of a Warship. Photos with explinations of how the ship is built.
