Under MWCI rules, your stringer can extend one frame past the end of the bulge on either end. But your total solid area (in ribs) can't be greater than the 15% allowed, including the max of 2" at the front and the 1" at the stern. You can (and it's totally legal under MWC rules) have different sized windows, different spacing (i.e. closer together at bow and stern, wider apart in the middle) if you like. For simplicity, I've always done more or less same-size windows, but that's just me being simple, no basis in rules requirements.
Weldwood? What is this Weldwood? I just use contact cement, and over here we don't silkspan the inside of our balsa. Does the internal layer of silkspan decrese penetrability significantly, or is it just to help prevent splintering?
Thanks for your help on the stringer thing. Will follow rules. I don't know why I got 2 post from Tugboat and 1 from Darren but I got 4 posting messages from Tugboat by email and 2 posting messages from Darren by email. I must be in here twice. Ron
Weldwood is just a type of contact cement, and yes the inside silkspan is to try and prevent splinters.
Here is the start of my taping that I wanted to show so you can make comments so I could correct if needed. Thick tape is window top 3/8 down from top edge and window bottom 1 inch under water line. 1/8 tape covers the bulge 1/16 above and 1/16 below bulge.1/4 tape in front 2 inches back and rear 1 inch toward front. If anything look crazy let me know to recheck measurements. If I did it wrong don't be shy now! Thanks Ron
On the tape around the stern, its much too low. Remember it only has to go down to where the hull starts to curve in at a 45 deg angle, you look like your totally under the hull, but hard to tell from the angle. The rest of the taping looks good. Just leave enough on the armour bulge to be able to attach the balsa, is that 1/16 both above and below? The 1/8 tape loses some when it rolls over the edge, before it goes back up again. I usually end up doing 1 layer of tape, then adding another on top of that, to make sure I get the 1/16 noth top and bottom.
djranier I also used the 1/8 on top and bottom of the bulge as you said to get 1/16 on top and 1/16 on bottom. Is there a measurement to get that little difference in the back or just bring it up sharper like you show? Will post another pic later. If you see Rick today ask him he can email me the copy of the sheeting directions when he gets a chance. Seems to be missing. Thanks Ron
If you have 1/16 thats fine, its just hard to judge by the picture is all, I just wanted to make sure you did not cut too much. The stern looks alot better, if you go back and look at my PE picture on page 2, the very end of the hole at the stern actually is at the waterline itself, due to the shape of the hull. Also on the top 3/8, rem to leave just a smidge more to allow for the resin between the sub and main deck. But its looking good.
Just remember that for MWC use, the lower edge of the window is 1" below the waterline, -OR- ON the 45 degree line. Not above. I say this because if you don't go at least to the 45 degree line, you risk not being legal, and showing up to Nats with windows not deep enough is very very sad A guy showed up with his ships in that state for the 06 Nats and was sorely unhappy with being told he needed to de-sheet the hulls and cut the windows bigger. Don't wind up in that position. I'm not the angle-checking czar, just giving some advice before you get sheeted. Some of the stern (and the area just ahead of it in that pic above) doesn't look all the way down to the 45. You don't need to go down quite as far as you did in the pic at the top of the page (where the tape is under the stern entirely), just a little lower than the pic above.
Here is a pic with the tape moved to what I think is on the 45degree. Before cutting I will see if I can get Snipe to eyeball this thing.Ron
Of course add the ribs also before you cut. Looking at the Pics is hard to tell if your on the 45, Snipe will be able to tell for sure for you. Good luck
djranier Hope you had a good day working on ships. Will start adding ribs than hope to get an inspection from Snipe before I cut anything. Thanks Ron
Yep we had a great day, Rick said he would send you the instructions if you needed them on sheeting, just shoot him a email he said. Got my pump outlet installed and hooked up to the pump, ran some water thru it, I'm quite happy with it. Don says I may be the first to ever try the way I have it installed, will have to see if it is effective or not. Installed the 3 turrets with no working guns. And sealed up all the small holes around the casemates. Next is to install the guns, and start wiring. Also helped Rick with his new Lutzow a bit.
When we say 19.2 1/4 inch ribs, we mean the ribs, not the front 2 inch section and not the rear 1 inch section only the ribs. Need some comments on these pics. 19.2 ribs total. Thanks Ron
Thank you Snipester Will copy to the other side than try to track you down with an email to see if an inspection can be done in the near future. Maybe some minor corrections and I can start to cut.
Yep, looks real good. Now your ready for the fun part, looks like you are ready to cut. It may be easier to drill out each of the corners. I never bothered with my first couple of ships, but on the PE I did. And when I started with the cutting wheel on it, it went alot easier. The corners are nice and rounded, less chance the fiberglass will crack.
