I allways get the 105, with the 205 hardner, works great. It mixes like at 5 to 1, so the small can in the group A picture is all you need. 105 Epoxy Resin 205 Fast Hardener Make sure you get the pump set also, that way the mix is always right. 300 Mini Pump Set I have never bothered with the fillers, but other's do.
Went to the page but how do you order. It lists a bunch of stuff but I don't see an order page. Do you have to go to a dealer? http://www.westsystem.com/
Thanks djranier, Tugboat Got all the stuff. Now how do you use these pumps? Do you fill little nicks you put in the fiberglass when you cut windows? Do you paint all the sub deck and deck with epoxy to seal it? Ron
Nicks at the top edge should have subdeck behind them, so they're fine strengthwise, altho I fill the crack with epoxy. Nicks into the rib itself, I reinforce with wood behind the rib anyway (gives me something to hang internal armor on, main reason), and nicks on the bottom edge are in the impenetrable area, so reinforce it as you please As for painting with West... You paint it on while it is still very thin. Work quickly, in small batches, and do the top deck all in one shot so it looks reasonably uniform. If you plan on putting pencil lines on the deck, do that before painting and the epoxy layer will protect your detailing
Does anyone have pictures of some pencil work on the deck? How were real ship decks made? Wood? Boards?
Ron- You can get a free safty guard upgrade for your Craftsman radial arm saw by going to: http://radialarmsawrecall.com/ Seams they don't want you go cut your hands off.
actually i do, not the greatest pic in the world but it works. oh and its actually from nats 2006, thats how much work I did on that boat between 2004 & 2006. ahh the joys of college.
Nice pic. I guess you penciled it in than coated it with varnish or epoxy. Were the real ships a wood floor? Ron
yup thats exactly how i did it, it looks ok. most warships had teak decks as I recall, just a bunch of teak planks cause its very strong wood and holds up well to sea water, some of the more naval types please correct me if im wrong.
Teak wood decks are a carry over from the old Sailing Vessels. Most all world war one and world war two warships had teak decks over the armored decks themselves. Wood on a Sea going ship has been a Naval Tradition for years. Also the teak wood was very resiliant to the environment so it had an ease of upkeep that protected the metal armor below that could rust if not for proper upkeep.
It also acted as a little bit of insulation on the deck surface, which markedly reduced the load placed on the ventilation (or air conditioning when that was available).
I don't have any pictures yet, but will try to explain how I did my Richelieu decks. I use the scribe and pencil method. For scribing, a zona saw works very nice. I tried razor blades but the line was too thin to look good. First, I scribed lines lengthwise into the deck spaced 1/8" apart. That comes out to just over a scale 12" wide board, but looks ok unless you really want to go perfectly scale. Then I scribed the board ends across the deck, alternating every other board. Move down a couple inches and scribe another set of board ends on the the alternate boards you didn't scribe before. Move down about 10 inches and do the alternating scribe technique again. After all that scribing is done, grab a sharp pencil and draw the lines into the scribes. Don't worry if it looks a little messy. We'll fix that in a moment. After all the lines are penciled in, use fine (180 grit or better) sand paper to lightly sand across the penciled lines. Blow the dust off, then get out your varnish and varnish the thing! The lines will look neat and the scribes will add that 3d effect. By the way, I found this method from another web site someplace, so credit goes to them. I'll try to get some pictures posted tomorrow.
