Model is ready for a float test this weekend if the weather is decent. I will mark the waterline afterword then begin painting the hull and camo on the hull.
Progress update. I float tested the hull this weekend and it floated on an even keel and even trim. I had a regulator, 7 oz c02 bottle, radio box with 4 servos and a receivor, 2 large nimah battery packs, bilge pump, motors and shafts, rudder servo , throttle servo , gear boxes, and 3 6v 12amphr batteries in the hull for ballast plus the top deck with Barbettes . No leaks in the hull, it remained dry. The hull is very stable so far. Afterword I took it back and drilled out the placement for the pump outlet and installed the pump outlet and secured the pump in it's mount. I went over the blah spots on the hull and will finish it up this week and get the main paint and camoflauge on the hull. But before I do that I will mark off the waterline on the hull while it is an all grey primer and then get the paint on. Once I get that done I can begin to wire up the motors and the pump, add the connectors and harnesses and I can take it for a test run. Once I have the deck secured I will get the superstructure together.
After a busy evening I was able to grab an hour and work on the NC . I sanded the hull again cleaniing up the imperfections. It is turning out really nice. The skegs now just need minor work. I am very near to painting the hull camo at this point. Any suggestions as to what kind of Armour is good to use these days?
Shower liner. How effective is that? I was wondering if the bbs would penetrate after a period of time or repeated hits in the same area. How much are they? and how are they installed?
It is a flexable PVC that cuts with scissors. Installation is a snap, cut to shape, then screw into ribs or just tack it on with CA. www.homedepot.com/p/t/100119279 Some stores sell it on a roll by the foot. I have never seen it penatrated, but I have never battled fast gun, and I understand there are a few cannons that can penetrate 1/8" light ply. I have even heard of cannons that break 1/4" construction ply ribs. Here is some installed in my old Gustav V. Check the pics of the internals on page two. www.rcnavalcombat.com/Forum/tabid/5...fault.aspx
Ooohh I get it. That stuff looks easy to handle. I will price it out locally and get a roll for installation. Thanks for the reference to the pics on that Dustin.
The shower pan liner works well for several years. Most people use CA glue to hold it to the sub deck and ribs. In places where you get hit over and over the liner will tear at the point it is glued to the ship. It takes awhile. I have shot through it testing guns. Not because the gun is so strong but because I am hitting the exact same spot quickly. In a battle the worst I have noticed is a dimple in it. The best fast guns will not shoot through 1/8" 5 layer marine plywood. The stuff you should be using if you want what you're building to last. If you use the cheap 3 layer lightweight stuff then you can blast through that if you hit in in the same spot enough. I've shot through the super cheap clementine tangerine box plywood with one shot. Not that I've tried but I'd guess if I shot a peice of 1/4" 3 layer plywood for long enough I could get through it. But never with one bb.
The shower pan liner works well for several years. Most people use CA glue to hold it to the sub deck and ribs. In places where you get hit over and over the liner will tear at the point it is glued to the ship. It takes awhile. I have shot through it testing guns. Not because the gun is so strong but because I am hitting the exact same spot quickly. In a battle the worst I have noticed is a dimple in it. The best fast guns will not shoot through 1/8" 5 layer marine plywood. The stuff you should be using if you want what you're building to last. If you use the cheap 3 layer lightweight stuff then you can blast through that if you hit in in the same spot enough. I've shot through the super cheap clementine tangerine box plywood with one shot. Not that I've tried but I'd guess if I shot a peice of 1/4" 3 layer plywood for long enough I could get through it. But never with one bb.
I didn't mean to imply that a very many cannons have done that, but was relaying anecdotal information from an old post here and a conversation I had with a very active fast-gunner at a treaty battle last year. Anywho, Bob has experience on the subject, so what he said I never seem to keep my boats long enough to find out anyway
That's great advice guys and extremely helpful. I been wanting to switch out my internal armour for my own ships so I am looking at alternatives and setups. Never thought about using the marine plywood but now that too is an option to look at . This is great stuff to know guys. Thanks for the input. Will let you know what I will go with but I like both options. Maybe I can use a combo version of the 2 types. Hmmm..... Anyway going camping with Bismarck this weekend. Will pick up on the NC Monday evening.
Update. A wee little one. I finally have the waterline marked on the hull. So now I can start painting the hull colors and camo. Will post pics when I get that done. After that wire up the motors and pump and battery harness and get this hull moving on the water.
Update: Below the waterline is painted and the above on the port side I have half of the camo pattern completed. When done I will post the pics for update.
Nearly done on the hull. I have a few touch ups to do but I will have pictures here this evening of the exterior of the hull. It came out very nice. I had a few minor setbacks as I was up late and getting tired and decided to stop before I made things work. However the waterline is applied.
