Yeah I prefer making a fiberglass hull if I can, if the hull isn't already available. First hull is done. Prepping the mold. Cut out glass, one layer of cloth and a layer of mat. Layer 1 done. I poured too much resin in so it kicked before I could spread it out all the way Layer 2 More to follow
Hull came out of the mold pretty easily. Trimmed down Underside came out nice, pretty much no seem Float test, didn't need to go to the pond for this one. Looks like my depth increase calculation worked out. Sitting here at max weight of 2.5 lbs. Freeboard is about 7/8" I think, which is pretty much scale. This hull is likely too heavy for combat, so it will be the static model. The next hull I will use less resin, and I might try just two layers of cloth with small mat reinforcement. I don't really plan for this to get into any fur balls so weight will be the primary concern. Hulls 2 and 3 are slated for this week to next weekend
Hull 2 was completed today. Used one layer cloth and one layer mat on the sides, with another layer of cloth along the bottom. Layer 1 drying Layer 2+ Only used 2 batches of polyester resin, the hull came out significantly nicer than the 1st one. Weight of the uncut hull was 12 oz, cutting the windows should drop 4-5 oz. Phone was charging when I popped the hull out so no pictures.
Finally got back to this build. Plan is to make as a convoy ship, I won’t be able to get a gun and such in there. Here is the hull marked. I had to reduce the bow and stern solid area so I could actually get some ribs. A quick cut out, about 1/6 the number of cuts as the Missouri I also rouged up the inside of the hull with the dremel Weight of the hull was 7.8oz after cut, bottom is pretty thick, sides not so much Moved on to the shafts, made a template for 1” props Here are shafts, 3/16 tube and 1/8 shaft Lining up shafts Close up on inside, need to get the end up so it can line up with a motor Underside pre tape Epoxy drying, trying to keep use to minimum to keep down weight I could use some suggestions for motors and an ESC. Motors should be DC and run at 6v, esc small, any tips would be great!
I have these in my Johnston. http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G9332 At 12v speed is in excess of 21 seconds. I've run it on 7.4v and the speed is obviously less but I'm not sure how much. They might get the Roberts up to speed as it's smaller. I was running 1 inch, 35 pitch BC props. For a small lightweight ESC the RobotPower Wasp is almost unbeatable. Steve runs one in his Mogador, I've used one in an RC tank combat artillery piece with no hiccups. Another option that I've used is one of these. View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DU49T4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Been running my Johnston on that since it's been sea worthy. No issues with it either.
Thanks for the info Caleb, I will pick up a few of the ESCs. It looks like the motor you used is about 365 size, I looked through some Mabuchi specs today and I think I might get a few different models and try them out, this site seems like it has a pretty large selection http://kysanelectronics-com.3dcartstores.com/DC-Motors_c_7.html I pulled the tape off today, shafts came out good. I will add struts at some point, I will probably wait until the motors arrive before doing much else on this project, also need to order props and a micro pump from BC
Blast from the past, started work on scale-ish version again Need to cut the hull back to scale, then rudders/struts, then a sort of deck rim
Cut the excess depth off, scary how little freeboard these things had Added some balsa for a deck rim, Will sand balsa down to get a nice flush mounting surface for deck. Need to probably clean up outside of hull soon so I can plan mounts and rudder before the deck goes in
Sanded rim down Next will be working on hull, have some bondo to do, then paint and maybe use joint compound to get it smooth. Will also be adding deck soon
For perspective, Samuel B Roberts was sunk by a Kongo, shown here the relative size comparison (fuso similar size) Sanded hull, then bondo on the ‘larger’ air pockets. Few cross braces for deck support Sprayed with primer, looks pretty good. Tomorrow will apply joint compound, sand, then paint, repeat until hull is Good. Will also add deck with a small hole so I can fasten the hull to baseboard
So happy to report that this mold (Along with the Tromp) is now in the shop at Modelshipsahoy and will be available to the public soon! Thanks Kevin!
Thanks Nick. Sprayed with primer Joint compound to remove the rolls Sanded Deck rough More spackle/joint compound, will pair again then add deck. Plan will be to buy a 1/144 fletcher plastic kit and steal the deck mounts and accessories
Thanks Lou, this one is static so weight is not a concern Put in more deck supports Cut deck for access to future mounts Bow Stern Another coat of paint Will keep working on hull, cleaning up deck edge and get the hull teady for coats of final paint
Back to work tomorrow. I picked up the revel fletcher 1/144 plastic kit to steel all the ‘little things’ for topside. Looks like a pretty nice kit. Here are some pictures of a destroyer escort model from the Naval Academy museum. I’ve found that good models can be the best reference for builds. My model certainly won’t come out remotely that good haha, I guess you could say that this is the answer key Should be sanding the last joint compound tomorrow, then still waiting on paint to show up. Going with measure 22 since I don’t think I could get a camo paint job looking right. Also will start assembling the deck guns and other accessories
Some work over the past few weeks. Painted bottom, got aftermarket props from fletcher on eBay. They are cast which is pretty cool Made rudders and struts, test fit Painted before install Also drilled holes for stand, so I can put the superstructure on Struts and rudder glued in and painted Props for show, need to be glued
This weekend I literally sanded the fingerprints off two fingers fairing the John C. Butler and Tromp molds. The molds are very solid Kevin. They held the lines well and were perfect for combat models. I basically had to sand out all the spots you filled with Bondo and sprayed a base layer of tooling gel. Next step is to fill the voids with spot gel, spray a finish layer, and polish out. Both boats will be available soon.
We don’t get a lot of spare time around here to develop new molds anymore, but I started sanding down the John C. Butler molds and ground open the pits for a finish layer of tooling gel. Got interrupted by need to help my daughter with her mock trial opening statement. Hopefully available very soon.
