I got a bunch done at rob's house saturday night. I'm almost sone with the electrical systems and THen to finish the guns and skin. Now we wait for rob's pictures.
Pictures of build day Testing Anthony's new armor design (it did excellent but was a bit heavy). We are going to try to lighten it a bit. Putting the rim around NC's decks and sealing them with epoxy the deck in need of socking :blink: gun boards and power leads wired up Pump and screens after we checked everything
Now imagine that black plasticard wall with 3 times as many bb impacts. And it stil stood. The wall was 2 sheets of .040 plasticard and 1/4" mold rubber. 1/8 inch mold rubber with .040 walls and 1/8" rubber with no front wall upcoming.
for the extra 12v, can I just bundle 4 AA batteries together and soder connecting wires from + to -? I'm not gonna be ableto run to radio shack any time soon to grab the 4 AA holder.
Now I just need to get a soldering iron. That and a drug scale so I can mix my superstructure walls better.
I was looking at your gun board wiring, and trying to figure out what you are doing with the diodes coming off the positive input? Are they your dampning diodes? and if so where are you planning on hooking your solenoids to? I do like how you went from one board to the other for the signal and power, saves on y conectors, but if one of your boards go bad, it will be a real pain fixing it. Just some observations here. The opti-couplers at time become leaky after using them for a bit, and we have had to replace them, thats the white chip. You can tell if you have a bad one, or even if its starting to go bad. Unplug the solenoid, and hookup a ohm meter, power up the card, and energize it. The resistance should be around .3 ohms or so for a good one. We have received a few from Dan where they measure 5 to 12 ohms, and will activate the solenoid with n0 gas on it, but as soon as you apply gas, it may only fire once or twice if that.
All the powers connect to the same red power wire. The blacks connect to a 6v box in series to boost the black power wire to the board to 12v to fully control the solenoids.
The diodes are the dampening ones. We planned on hooking the solenoids to the other side of them. I ran them straight through the boards so I can attach from the bottom. There is about a 3/4 lead of the diode left over. Thanks for the opti- tip!
[FONT=Arial,sans-serif]In reference to the 2 boards that are running off the same channel: Why is the first one's light not lighting up? The second one does.[/FONT]
They should both light up. With them hooked up to a working receiver, they should have a slow flash, and when activated a fast flash. Ok I see what you did now with the diodes, thats what I was asking about, the extra wire on the other side I could not see.
ahh ok. i think im out of the warranty time. do they replace bad boards or do i have to pay for a new one?
You probably have a bad contact on the one board. Did you try jumping the connections one by one to see if I missed a solder joint? Your xtra battery should only have one positive and one negative. Wire them like the diagram.
M'Tronic's Viper Marine 20,25 or 35 depending on your need. best part is that they work best when sitting in water in the bottom of your hull! Just don't hook up the power backwards!
