hehe i would have said the opposite, but i dont like BECs so i dont tend to use them. multiple ways to skin a cat. really as Kotori said just get one that has a large enough rating to handle whatever is hooked up to it stalling or fuse it just below its rated current. Id check the motor manufacturer's website for stall current its easy enough and heck they should know they make the motors. that being said i know guys that run big battle ships with two regular motors on a 15amp ESC and they have done so for while without trouble all without fusing and with motors that could fry it if they were to stall. The mtroniks ones are pretty standard and easy since they are waterproof but if you arent afraid of waterproofing one yourself there are other options. oh and if you fuse your motors do them separately so if one goes the other doesnt, otherwise you might as well turn off your pump.... Id shoot for something in the 25-40 amp range and then just protect the ESC in some fashion. You really dont want your motors drawing that much current anyway even if it doesnt burn up your ESC.
I use 30A breakers borrowed from a car's headlight circuit, they fit in the standard wedge type fuse holder and reset themselves when they cool down after an overload.
Yeah I use auto-resetting thermal circut breakers, they are pretty cool. I think the ones I have will trip at 3 amps, might be 4 amps. Basically the higher current they see the faster they trip, then once the current draw has fallen to acceptable levels they reset themselves. I can go deeper into detail about how they work if you want me to. I have one on each motor and the idea is that if that shaft gets mossed or fishing line around it or whatever the circuit breaker goes and prevents the motor from burning out the ESC. Once the moss is cleared or whatever the circuit breaker will have reset and Ill be good to go again, that way I dont have to worry about blowing a fuse in the middle of battle and losing a motor and being forced to call 5 so i can replace the fuse. They work pretty well, Ive had them trip on me a couple times but once you fix whatever the problem was and let it reset (its like 30 secs maybe?) its back to normal. I think they cost me like $25 each, so a bit more expensive than your average fuse but I think the ablility to maintain full functionality once they reset is important. ( its that whole reliability thing) and having a boat that protects itself and can fix itself once the problem is solved is pretty cool too. I dont remember where i got them from but if you're interested give me a few days and maybe i can find the info. Ever noticed good captains have good boats, take the hint, thats what I did, now if only I could get the good captain part down. reliability...reliability...reliability...
Ok, I'll wait for the info about those fuses. A good addition to the Mtroniks ESC i have that automatically stops working so it doesn't fry itself.
The hull comes Tuesday, but to the wrong address. My brother had it shipped to his girlfriend's house. Hardware should come the within that week.
OK, I found the info on the circuit breakers I use. They are made by Klixon and are the CDA-3 model. They are sealed automatic reset circuit breakers so you dont have to waterproof them or anything. I bought them at Peerless Electronics, I think I had to call them up and do it over the phone. Four of them cost me $91.40 with shipping and all that jazz, my handwritten note seems to say they were $21 each when I bought them. If you get on their website and look at circuit breakers and they have a big selection there and I think they stock most of if not the entire Klixon product line. Id recommend getting your drive train setup first and finding out how much current you're going to be drawing while running at speed if possible so you know how big an ESC you should buy and what you'll need to use to protect it.
Dam, this is a big boat. It's so big i cant put it under or behing my tree. I have to put it behind the couch. I'm no expert, but it looks great with it's knockles and torpedo bulges. THere are 2 propeller things sticking out of the bottom of the ship, not four. Is this ok since the outer 2 props wont be powered anyway?
the NC back end looks alot like my new jersey where the 2 center props were on skegs and the outer 2 are on loose shafts with struts on them http://pic7.piczo.com/TheClarkyEmpire/?g=10262331&cr=7 that what it will kinda look like
I'll take on Santa anytime. I don't see him with a boat. Hopefully me and darticus will have our boats ready for the spring thaw so we can have a noob battle as a first battle with our ships.
Well don't leave out snipe, he will be able to help with any issues that either of you may have, and he's Axis, so a great target for the 2 of you.
well somebody has to play the bad guy, anyways im off to go try my hand at building cannons, maybe ill have something special cooked up in time for spring
Hey target, I mean snipe, how's that scratch building of a VDT going? On a side note, did you test that ABS for survivability? Dont worry, I will have plenty of questions.
