Now that the hafts are level, the props hit the hull. Gotta lower the shafts and sand the gearboxes more.
Ok, the shafts are level and the props clear the hull barely. What bondo did you guys suggest to glue the gearboxes down? What about the epoxies from lowes/depot? Do they suck like everything else in the store or are they to be trusted since they are loctite?
Hey Anthony, Do you have any pictures, (side view) of the shafts? What size props are you running? Thanks,
I just bought a pump from BC for a class 6 so I'll sink more slower. I might of asked this before, but cant find the answer, how do I find how many amps the motor pulls under power?
What servo should I use for the rudder control servo? Would a mtroniks 40amp esc be good for a NC? Is 2 6v12amp batteries in paralell good for a NC? If so where is suggested to get them?
I got my 6volt 12 amp batteries, known as bricks from Battery Mart. I use 2 of them in my Alabama. I guess you would use 2 or 3 if you can fit the extra battery. As far as a rudder servo, I use a standard Futaba servo. Never had a problem.
Rudder Servo: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPB45&P=7 That mtroniks should work, try hobby shack or loyalhanna dockyard. Ive used the Viper-SSR with pretty good results too if you want an mtroniks I would go with a set of 6V24amp or 6V36amp batteries. less batteries and chargers to carry around. look around online for a good price.
A standard Futaba will work, but it has no water protection. If you sink, you will have to open it up and flush it with alcohol. The Hitec low-profile servo that Snipe suggested has o-ring seals, and can survive a shallow sinking. However, even it won't hold up if you sink in deep water, so you should still have a bottle of rubbing alcohol in your pondside tool box at all times. An Mtroniks 40-amp speed controller should work for most purposes. Just be sure to put a fuse or circuit breaker in the main power circuit, with an equal or lower rating than the ESC. If you ever exceed the amp rating of an ESC, such as if you get mossed, or slam between forward and reverse rapidly and repeatedly, then you will blow up the ESC with lots of smoke, fire, and other excitement. And however exciting it is, it's an expensive way to get a thrill.
No matter what you decide on for a servo you should still waterproof it somehow. Water tight box, scotchkote, fill it with oil, whatever, as long as it works.
Oil, I don't think you want to fill the servo with oil, just build a box or do what snipehunter said and seal the servo.
When someone scotchkoats a servo, they take the servo apart and sprays scotchkote on the circuit board in the lower half of the servo. You don't spray the gears on the top half of the servo. For the gears, I tend to put a liberal amount of lithium grease inside the top half of the servo to try to keep water out of the servo motor and pot. After it's scotchkoted and greased, stick the servo back together and put a small o-ring over the servo spline before putting the servo arm back on. Viola! Done.
