V-106 Build 1/96

Several inches would probably be too big. Maybe a 5 tooth and a 20 tooth. I don't really care how may teeth are on each gear, I just need something that will get me a 4:1 ratio and be able to fit in a 1.5" space. Any possibilities?

Beaver

 

The gears are not for V-106, they're for Suffren. I'm trying to salvage my motors without buying another set. As long as the big gear fits in a 1.5" space, it should fit.

Beaver

 

If you think that you can't build me a set of gears, I guess I'll have to get a new set of motors.

Beaver

 

So today I didn't work on Suffren because there was this little destroyer sitting in front on me saying, "You don't like to work on me any more. " (probably not true) So I told him I would cut out his front sub-deck.
Here it is.


I put Suffren up next to Venie. The difference was so great that I had to take a picture.

I wonder if I got the scaling wrong.


I'm starting to wonder if I should finish Venie instead of building a Rodney. I would definitely enjoy the challenge. Thoughts?

Beaver

 

um just build em all?!

 

OHH, I would love to do that. I'm just considering the choices. Rodney would need a trailer to haul unless I built her in two pieces, whereas Venie would fit very nicely in the car because she's so small.

Beaver

 

Oh I did not realize Rodney would be for battlestations. As cool as those monsters are they seem a bit much for me haha now 1/144 scale build em all hahah

 

The other day I had an eye opener. I wanted to know how much weight I had to play with on this model. So I filled the bathtub and got some lead. After getting down to the waterline I picked her up and took her to a scale. I was shocked as I read the numbers. 1 3/4 pounds!!!
This is going to be a little harder than I thought.
Those 1/4 inch subdecks I built early are now not even going to be considered. Subdeck as deck will be made out of something light; I'm not sure what at the moment.
Any tips for a small ships will be appreciated.

But I have made some progress. I made two stuffing tubs and two props. Stuffing tube and prop together weigh one ounce, not bad.

I have now cut the slots for the stuffing tubes in the hull.





Fame and fortune to the one that can guess what the props are made out of.







I sure hope my drive motor is going to be big enough. LOL




I think I can get this model driving at under a pound. That is just the bare hull with electronics. That leaves me with about a pound to get a torp in there. I'm thinking of doing something spring powered.

Do you guys think one of these motors per shaft hooked up direct drive to a 3/4" prop will get me close to 39sec?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9069__Turnigy_1230_Brushless_Inrunner_Motor_4500kv.html

Thanks,

 

I'm working on a destroyer that must come in less that 2.25 pounds, so I think it can be done. A light weight deck is a must, as well as a light weight superstructure. I started over when I realized that my 1/4" sub-deck with an 1/16" deck was going to be too heavy. I ended up with a 1/8" sub-deck and a 1/32" deck with a 1/8" lattice to keep it stiff.
You can probably have a single shot, two tube torpedo fired with an accumulator. By taking off the CO2 bottle and regulator, the weight becomes much easier to make.
The motor you listed is a little hot. With 4500 Kv you need at least a 3:1 gear box. Plan to use lithium batteries (~1000 mAh) and either a motor around 1000 Kv with 3 cells or 1500 Kv with 2 cells. The little 130 sized brushed motors I'm using in my PDN should work pretty well on 3 cells.
Check out my thread on PDN equipment in the Midwest Naval Combat Club area to get more ideas for light weight equipment.

 

I was considering just upscaling the paper model plans for the superstructure. Light, and when it is damaged, print another copy.

 

I was thinking that motor might be too fast, but I wasn't sure. There is another motor that looks identical to this one, but it has a lower Kv, I think. It is listed at 10300kv, I think somebody got carried away with their zeros and it is actually 1030kv. Do you think it will work. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9068

 

Unfortunately the 10300 Kv is correct, not a typo. These are very small inrunners and they turn very fast. I recommend you look at outrunners in 20mm-28mm diameter range if you want to go with a brushless setup. For instance, I have one of these motors for my 18" PT boat: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19033__Turnigy_Park300_Brushless_Outrunner_1080kv.html
It weighs less than an ounce.

 

I agree that motor is way too high kv...... And the torque would probably be too low also, even if geared down a ton. I have a small (1-1/2 lb fully dressed) destroyer, and although it has never been on the water yet, running the props in water it seems to provide far more thrust than I will need. I am geared in the neighborhood of 3:1, and used a HK 2623 3000kv outrunner. It's a small but powerful motor... Way more power than the 365 size brushed motor that it replaced, and is plenty small enough for you, unless you wanted one for each prop... If that's the case, find a lower kv inrunner. The one you linked to is tiny... I used the slightly bigger, lower kv one on the pump on my orfey pump... Hunt down that pic for an idea on scale.

 

Thanks, Mark and Cannonman. I think I might have found a motor that will work. It's 1550 kv, and I'll be running off of a 1000mAh 2 cell battery.

Here is the motor: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6633__C20_brushless_Outrunner_1550kv.html

Battery: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6474__ZIPPY_Flightmax_1000mAh_2S1P_20C.html

Plus I think this ESC will work, what are your thoughts? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23766__HobbyKing_Brushless_Car_ESC_10A_w_Reverse.html

The shafts were glued in yesterday, so today I did some testing. I wanted to do some thrust testing to see about how much Kv I would need. I had a free 2100kv motor so I connected the motor to the shaft with some tubing and twisty ties. After running at full throttle in the bath tub I was really disappointed. I had hardly any thrust. I was thinking that if this is the case I'm going to need something in the 4500kv range just to be able to drive this thing around. Well, last night I was messing around with boat stuff when it hit me....the end point adjustment was turned down to 36% throttle for Suffren. So today I did some testing with the motor running full speed. I don't know why, but I just gunned the motor all the way up to full speed. Just as soon as I did that the whole boat just sank. The motor was an outrunner with big hole in it to allow air to the motor, so when the motor made contact with the water it turned into a makeshift pump. Unforunately, to stream was going right into my face. I finally got to the radio and turn the motor off, but I was pretty wet by then. Test after this showed that 1500kv will be plenty enough speed to get this boat going.

So now I wear a wetsuit and goggles during tests in the bathtub, just kidding!

 

That motor and battery should work fine. The motor is small and you may not be able to use anything bigger than a 3/4" prop on it.
Those are the same ESCs I have for my destroyer. In general testing they have worked well for me. However, this last weekend I started seeing some flaky response out of them. I had a pair of them installed in my Tugster and at times it appeared at one of the two motors wasn't starting or that it was no longer giving full throttle range. It may have been my installation, not the ESC. Since the Tugster is our rescue boat, it is left with the radio on for hours at a time, sitting in the sun, with no air circulation around the ESCs. The motors are also only 650 Kv and see about 60% throttle max. Unfortunately not enough information to say definitively that it was an ESC problem. Another choice is this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...r_ESC.html I've been using them in my cruiser for two years with no problems.

 

If that ESC works, I'll go with it. Thanks, Mark.

 

Might finish this this winter. I put a few more layers of FG to make the hull stronger.


Still needs trimmed.

 

Just realized I never posted a photo showing the hull trimmed.